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Post by bambamofatlanta on Mar 13, 2013 21:46:45 GMT -5
First Night Ride with LED: I fired up my dimly lit Piece Sports twin 18 watt Baja style lights. Then I hit the 27 watt LED narrow beam headlight and night became DAY with VIVID color! I can see again! Who says you have to have HID? Screw them, LED does the job without a totally new HD electrical system!
You can find them on E-Bay under "27W LED WORK LIGHT PENCIL BEAM OFF ROADLAMP TRUCK BOAT JEEP CAR 12V 24V 4WD 4x4"
Why LED works with very little watts: But how can 27 watts blow the doors off other premium lights? Light meters consistently say, HUMANS you are all crazy. I know a company that spent hundreds of thousands on it's new corporate building's low pressure sodium high efficiency lighting. Everyone complained and at the cost of maybe millions, they had to rewired the whole building for regular lights as this system was something like 400volts with low amps. Human eyes, unlike light meters, have Rods & Cones that see two different light spectrums. Most lights produce light with one spike outside our vision range so most of the light and watts is wasted even though the light meter says it is working. Like some parking lot garages we have all seen with their bazaar yellow light that destroys the color to all the cars. LED is odd in that it's light has 2 peaks and while they do not perfectly hit the peaks for our Rods and Cones, they overlap like no other light can. Hence why colors are so vivid and our vision is well beyond what any light meter says it should. Simply, humans love LED. Don't get me wrong, HID is great too, but at a very high cost and high heat and high amps, all of which our scooters hate.
Review: The LED light I bought off E-Bay for $30 to the door is NOT plastic nor stamped sheet metal. In fact there is NO plastic except for the fairly thick lens behind the shroud. It is all HD cast Aluminum with shockingly large bolts and fairly thick steel mounts. I mounted it above the twin lights to the same shield that is unique to Peace Sports. There is no vibration or shake ... odd since factory tires are anything but round. While the Internet was clear that LED light,s being diodes, will work with AC, their life spans can be severely shortened. I had one LED brake light only last an hour or two and now I know why. Simply you will only need a bridge rectifier as the AC is regulated. And Radio Shack sells them on E-Bay. I got the 3 pack so my LED tail lights will be DC only to increase their life span too. The 3rd is a back up. They are very very small and marked for wiring. The 3 pack was ... ummm memory says a buck or two each. Unlike normal headlights, these do not dim at idle. They stay bright till the idle gets below 1000 with a little dimming and pulsing. They never turn brown. The twin 18 watt factory lights add nothing to this one. You might as well turn them off showing that the combined 36 watts does not contribute and only adds needless load to the electrical system. Last, we all know that LED last a long long time and even if one light blew, you will not be left in the dark.
Legal? and Beam Pattern? They are rated about 30 degrees and about 15 degrees L & R is about right. Simply they are not well patterned for on coming traffic. Hence why I wired them to the high beam (they lie, super low beam Vs ultra low beam.) I stepped out front of my scooter about 20 yds and to the other lane. They did not blind me, but I would not say they were normal either. I left it on and past about 15 cars. No one flashed me. That is a very small sample and maybe the next 15 will have 1/2 flash me. I admit it is pushing the edge, I will let others on the road decide for me. And update here if they are a problem. If they flash, then I will limit them to high beam empty road only. I saw nothing that says DOT on them. There are some rated for the road and if memory serves me right, they start at over $100.
If they are too bright for low-beam, then clearly this light is not the full answer. But now I believe LED is the right direction for our low output electrical systems. At least in the future when DOT versions come out.
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Post by prodigit on Mar 13, 2013 21:58:47 GMT -5
27 W of LED light is insane! on average a 20W headlight is comparable to a 5W LED.
27W would be comparable to 8x20W to 6x25W halogen headlights good for buggy's or rally cars, not city riding!
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Post by skuttadawg on Mar 13, 2013 22:20:52 GMT -5
Would have been great to have posted nighttime before and after pictures hint hint . Did you install an 1157 LED tail light and blinkers too ? The tail light LED like I have on my 2T screws in just like a bulb with no mods required . It is much brighter and will outlast a bulb . I use a red one and can see the tag where a clear one would have lit up the tag better . Some like a Jonway RockThunder use a separate bulb for the tag . LED blinkers or turn signals require changing out the relay but Oriellys has em for 10 or less .
I can only think of one scooter that has a LED headlight and that is a CFMoto Jetmax which my dealer has for 4 grand which is expensive to me for a 250cc even though it is nicer than many with EFI and modern styling .
My TaoTao ATMa50 was just above a candle and was too dim to drive in the country at night . My Echarm has a DC bulb that turns on with the key rather than start up of the engine like most that dim and brighter with change of the RPMs where my Echarm stays the same and is bright to be a single 35 watt bulb with two tiny helper bulbs . My Jonway Magnum has a handsome boy body with dual 35 watt headlights with LED tail light and I can see very good . I have been interested in installing LED cornering or additional lights as one night a Harley was behind me with two of em plus a very bright headlight that was so bright and had a wide beam that I could have driven easily at night if I did not have a single head light .
The HIDs look cool on some scooters and cars but I hate those xeon lights like on BMWs with the blueish white hue as they blind me and glare so much in the rain . My Echarm has a soft yellow hue . A nearby city has amber street lights and it is amazing how much easier it is to see at night even in heavy rain compared to metal-halide street lights with the blue hue .
Would want a link to where and what LEDs you used as headlights . The 1157 LED said it was not DOT approved but I have not had a single issue with the police as I am sure they are glad to see I improved my visibility with so many scooter wrecks involving a car .
Did you also replace your running lights and dash lights with LEDs too ?
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Post by prodigit on Mar 14, 2013 1:00:11 GMT -5
IMHO, Dash lights should always be leds. Problem with those is, that the leds take 3.3-3.5V, and the battery is 12-14V, meaning, you either need 4 LEDs in series, or plug a resistor behind the led. The resistor will have losses.
On a dash, you could actually install 2 or 3 white or blue leds behind the speedo/tacho, and 1 or 2 red led to light up the speedo or tacho pointer (to give the pointer another color).
You could easily replace the helper lights, or directional (parking) lights with LEDs. The blinkers is another thing, as I've read that changing them to LEDs causes them to blink too fast.
I personally would not change headlight to LED, unless the beam can be directed. Much like the halogen bulbs with lenses, if they have LEDs with lenses, that could direct the beam, that would be interesting. But as far as headlight housing, that can direct LED light, that's still not working out very well...
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Post by scooterelements on Mar 14, 2013 9:21:22 GMT -5
Got a link for that item?
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Post by bambamofatlanta on Mar 16, 2013 12:40:56 GMT -5
Link? It should be on E-Bay with the description the seller used that is copy/pasted above. The taillight is LED, but I also epoxy LED strips from top to bottom on the reflector since LED lights are more straight line. I understand you wire 3:1 on Brake/Running lights. I have yet to wire the intire group. Next I will epoxy LED strips under the red reflextor on the trunk. There is just enough room to put 4-5" double rows on the left and right of the key. Once done, I should have a lot of surface area on the rear ... GoldWing level LoL! Got to go, when I get back I will down load the pictures.
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 16, 2013 17:44:40 GMT -5
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Post by eivad1 on May 9, 2013 21:00:43 GMT -5
where the pics of it on the bike
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Post by carasdad on May 9, 2013 22:06:34 GMT -5
IMHO, Dash lights should always be leds. Problem with those is, that the leds take 3.3-3.5V, and the battery is 12-14V, meaning, you either need 4 LEDs in series, or plug a resistor behind the led. The resistor will have losses. Odd I bought 25 T10 base/194 dash bulbs..and they run off 9-12 as the Ebay post says. www.ebay.com/itm/160997787043?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649 ALL the lights in my dash are white LED's. Because the dash has a blue lens for hi/lo beam indicator...green lenses for the signal indicators. Gone are the orange colored GE "Super White' bulbs...hooked even direct to a 13.6 volt charged battery..they are orange in color. White LED's only are incredible..you can actually see the dash at night. I use them on all customer Scoots and they love them. We could go over the Physics of Light in which I am well versed...also the ROYGBIV color spectrum. But true physics and properties of light do not apply to the human eye. Just as sound wave frequencies we cannot hear...there are also light wave frequencies we cannot see. So whatever mathematical equations you can gather from actual frequencies of sound or light combination...and by using a sound level meter or spectrum analyzer..it is irrelevant to what the human eyes or ears can detect. Sure hints of blue will tell the spectrum analyzer the light is whiter. But since we can't see it..we can't use it. I go by what can be seen and that is the pure white LED's(that do NOT have to be wired in series to equate 12v like stated above..nor do they need a resitor..as each one consumes 12v's) Cones in our eyes lining the Retina detect color..Rods detect light black and white and therefore the rods are % of our night vision. That is why we cannot see color at night. I could go on..but I am wasting my College Degree and what I learned in a Human Physics class on someones speculation...assumption and continual off the wall ramblings. Here is a pic for ya...now show me yours? High School Diploma even. Wanna impress me WITHOUT using Wikipedia..tell me the frequency for each of the Primary Colors and what the human frequency threshold for light is. Attachments:
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 7:40:45 GMT -5
I will say 27w of LED power is a lot...surprised it does not blind oncoming traffic. The Tactical Light on my Colt 1911 .45 is only a 7w Cree LED..and it will shine nicely out to about 100 yards. If you are within 25 feet of it...it will temporarily blind you and mess up your night vision. Since 7 yards is considered the average distance of engagement and what LEO's are Pistol Qualified at...should I encounter an intruder...I will never have to squeeze off a round. The Strobe light effect button it has..will really disorient ya as well with its 350 lumen's directed in your face.
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 21:21:17 GMT -5
IMHO, Dash lights should always be leds. Problem with those is, that the leds take 3.3-3.5V, and the battery is 12-14V, meaning, you either need 4 LEDs in series, or plug a resistor behind the led. The resistor will have losses. On a dash, you could actually install 2 or 3 white or blue leds behind the speedo/tacho, and 1 or 2 red led to light up the speedo or tacho pointer (to give the pointer another color). You could easily replace the helper lights, or directional (parking) lights with LEDs. The blinkers is another thing, as I've read that changing them to LEDs causes them to blink too fast. I personally would not change headlight to LED, unless the beam can be directed. Much like the halogen bulbs with lenses, if they have LEDs with lenses, that could direct the beam, that would be interesting. But as far as headlight housing, that can direct LED light, that's still not working out very well... Here is my proof that pure white LED's and the blue and red ones you said to use..won't work properly...as detailed in my lengthy reply in this post up above. It where I explain partially the physiology of human sight..and the light wave frequencies we are able to detect. Here is a pic of the white LED's in the dark. The arrow points at an area that did not appear illuminated..but it was..however the camera angle did not capture it. The glare to the left is from our bright porch light. Dash sure looks bright...easy to see and SUPER clear huh? That was at a very slow idle...it gets lots more crisp and enhances the detail more just above idle. So why is it I can validate my posts with tangible facts and evidence..while all you have to support yours is speculation...assumption and guessing...which you put out there as factual? Btw..more facts..I did not need to connect any LED's parallel and use a resistor to harness the 12v so each bulb got 3.6v as you claimed they require. Also...STILL we wait for the link asked for...where the researchers found mixing 10w-30 with 10w-40 would yield more power and longer engine life. Ever so politely I would like to ask where your link to that and its evidence are? I know..and am sorry that it angers you..that I can validate what I say with facts and tangible evidence. I will explain the reason for that...it's easy..anything that is not factual...cannot be proven without visualization and physical proof.(Borrowed that from Albert Einstein) So anyway..I posted my evidence and facts..now it's your turn correct? It will be super simple...ALL THAT IS NEEDED...is a link to..or cut 'n paste copy of the research article detailing that mixing 10w-30 and 10w-40 oil increases engine power and longevity. You can do it..we are REALLY waiting for it..and I have faith in you.. Attachments:
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Post by spandi on May 10, 2013 21:32:50 GMT -5
IMHO, Dash lights should always be leds. Problem with those is, that the leds take 3.3-3.5V, and the battery is 12-14V, meaning, you either need 4 LEDs in series, or plug a resistor behind the led. The resistor will have losses. On a dash, you could actually install 2 or 3 white or blue leds behind the speedo/tacho, and 1 or 2 red led to light up the speedo or tacho pointer (to give the pointer another color). You could easily replace the helper lights, or directional (parking) lights with LEDs. The blinkers is another thing, as I've read that changing them to LEDs causes them to blink too fast. I personally would not change headlight to LED, unless the beam can be directed. Much like the halogen bulbs with lenses, if they have LEDs with lenses, that could direct the beam, that would be interesting. But as far as headlight housing, that can direct LED light, that's still not working out very well... I have an all led dash and blinkers. (swapped out the standard relay for one made to flash leds.)
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Post by carasdad on May 10, 2013 21:41:33 GMT -5
IMHO, Dash lights should always be leds. Problem with those is, that the leds take 3.3-3.5V, and the battery is 12-14V, meaning, you either need 4 LEDs in series, or plug a resistor behind the led. The resistor will have losses. On a dash, you could actually install 2 or 3 white or blue leds behind the speedo/tacho, and 1 or 2 red led to light up the speedo or tacho pointer (to give the pointer another color). You could easily replace the helper lights, or directional (parking) lights with LEDs. The blinkers is another thing, as I've read that changing them to LEDs causes them to blink too fast. I personally would not change headlight to LED, unless the beam can be directed. Much like the halogen bulbs with lenses, if they have LEDs with lenses, that could direct the beam, that would be interesting. But as far as headlight housing, that can direct LED light, that's still not working out very well... I have an all led dash and blinkers. (swapped out the standard relay for one made to flash leds.) Ok...cough it up...you know...the link to that relay for the flashers. Not that cagers see or acknowledge our flashers...but even the brightest filament bulbs you can buy for them..are super anemic.. Also which blinker bulb base do you have..the T10/194 press in..or the twist in base ones?.
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Post by chihuahuas on May 10, 2013 22:47:23 GMT -5
My HID is so Bright They wear shades on the International Space Station when they fly over me.
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Post by spandi on May 10, 2013 23:25:42 GMT -5
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