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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 23:32:05 GMT -5
I found out a way this summer to retromod 2008-2013 Sunny style scooters to fit a Halogen Headlight Bulb. This *may* work on other scooters. It is reversible if you are careful. Otherwise you have to purchase a whole new headlight assembly if you want to revert back as the socket is not typically available separately. This mod works best for scooters with the 25w Incandescant bulbs. We always have lots of 35w/35w halogen bulbs in the shop. The specific model is important as it has to have the two electrodes on the bottom, and it can't be too large. You'll see below.  Pulling out the headlight assembly and the headlight socket you can see the bulb *just* fits inside. Looking from the side you can see how the flange nicely fits inside the retaining ring area.   From behind rotate the bulb until the contacts match up with the metal prongs. Carefully bend the prongs down until they fit snugly against the bulb contacts. You will have to remove the bulb to bend the contacts enough. It will take a few tries. Make sure the contacts DO NOT TOUCH or you will have a melted rectifier. If you have the bulb backwards, its ok, high and low will just be reversed. Test before you close everything up. If you look closely at the cutouts on the socket, you can see the aligning tab on the bulb sits in relation to the side cutout notch. It may or may not look like yours.  To affix the bulb use two small screws. Small, short, with very wide thread. Narrow thread screws won't work as they won't bite into the plastic. Screw them down on the side from the top so the entire head fits between the retaining ring and holds the light bulb flange in place. Sorry I don't have a closeup of the screws. You don't want the screws to interfere with the bulb assembly attachment. You can figure out the best placement by looking. Make sure the screws do not hit any wires and create a short. If you want you can get a bit creative to hold the bulb in place. Just remember that the bulb gets HOT.  I do not have any photos of the light, but its pretty obvious. Incandescent 25w vs. 35w halogen. HUGE difference. And it does not put extra stress on the electrical system and does not require any extra electronics or ballast like other aftermarket systems do. Greg Mainely Scooters |
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 23:14:43 GMT -5
Interesting idea. However, saddle bags are cheap and removable. If you wanted to get elaborate you could just fabricate your own toolbox to fit into the empty space next to the tire, maybe a "mirror image" of the exhaust to balance the look.
Greg
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 23:12:16 GMT -5
Interesting, but don't forget that metal fatigues and compresses. Whenever I adjust valves the bolt heads are almost never in the same position twice.
Greg
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 23:10:04 GMT -5
We sometimes use a vacuum hand pump ($15 from auto parts store) attached to the bleeder nipple. A few squeezes and the line is filled.
Greg
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tips
by: Mainely Scooters - Nov 21, 2013 23:07:25 GMT -5
Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 23:07:25 GMT -5
You can never tell the scooter tire pressure by squeezing it. A hammer works if you know the tone to listen to.
For our rental scooters we have tire valve stem caps with integrated pressure gauge in them. They are fairly cheap, come in a set of 4, and at a glance you can see if your tire is at 36psi (most tires we recommend 35psi, but check the tire), 32, 28, or 24. Just look at the color.
Greg
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 22:55:55 GMT -5
Gotta be careful... similar looking does not mean mounting points and clips are the same.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 22:52:32 GMT -5
I'm expanding it to 16x9 Sliders.
2 sets Dr. Pulley 16x9 6g
4 sets Dr. Pulley 16x9 5g
4 sets Dr. Pulley 16x9 4g
$12.99 each. We accept Paypal now (I know I know, so sue me)
Email me at eshop@mainelyscooters.com.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 22:49:47 GMT -5
Performance Muffler exhaust for GY6 50CC#88356 Today's Price: $4.99 $40?!!?!? I just paid $80!!  SERIOUSLY, you get what you pay for. I'm not insulting any "competitors". I'm stating fact. |
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 22:47:26 GMT -5
Most important is to LISTEN to the RPMs as you round the bend. If they drop you need to raise them to get in the power band. Your upgraded motor *should* make its best power around 8k, but of course it depends on many factors.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 22:43:20 GMT -5
On that specific scooter:
Remove both mirrors. Remove two screws on the left and right of the steering stem, on the bottom of the movable part. Remove two screws by the handgrips underneath the handlebars. There are three internal clips. Use a flat screwdriver (with a cloth to avoid scratching) to slip between the seam at the top center, above the speedo cluster. There are two more clips at the end of the same seam, right by the handgrips. Front cover assembly should fall right off. It will be attached by the headlight wiring harness. The two side bulbs are removable by doing a 1/4 twist CCW then pull straight out. Once you look its fairly self-explanatory.
Mirrors use 14mm wrenches. Both are standard thread. Not all mirrors are standard thread, some are reverse.
Greg
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 21:00:16 GMT -5
I have come across 3 scooters this past summer (actually more, but 3 different causes here) with the same issues:
1. Carburetor needs tuning. The A/F mixture is wrong and it bogs down. Ended up being the maine jet.
2. Carburetor needs fixing. The diaphragm was broken/torn and while it would idle fine it would not lift allowing more fuel.
3. Missing belt. Self explanatory. Just a few shreds left
4. Loose variator. The nut was loose, so while it was not enough to rattle, it was enough to allow the belt to slip.
Ok, so there were four. Acutally 27 I believe is the accurate number. Anyway, all 3 (27) superficially had the same symptoms, same engine sound.
Ok, here's another cause I just remembered. Spark blowout.
Greg
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gas cap
by: Mainely Scooters - Nov 21, 2013 20:53:04 GMT -5
Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 20:53:04 GMT -5
You can use any fuel safe rubber and just cut it out. Many times the rubber seals from an old gas can fit. Or you could find any wrecked scooter and get one. Or buy a new one.
Greg
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 20:50:56 GMT -5
There is a HUGE variation in the parts that different scooter manufacturers use. Even from the same manufacturer same line same year there are differences.
Do you know how high your RPMs are going when cruising? If you are hitting 8500+ and put on lighter roller weights you won't go any faster, just accelerate faster.
Does it feel "sluggish" like it could be an engine power problem? If so you may need to tune the carburetor a bit.
Does it feel like you are hitting a "wal" at a certain speed? Then it might be a drivetrain/gearing issue. Then again it could be a carburetor tuning issue.
Its quite possible the rear torque sheave spring is a bit stiff for your setup. Typically I recommend stronger springs for better acceleration, but it depends on what the final RPMs are. If they are too high it is possible the spring is too strong and the belt is not riding to the top of the variator. In that instance we recommend heavier weights so there is more "push" against the belt overcoming the force of the stronger rear spring.
Greg
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 20:44:16 GMT -5
From what I've learned here, I think a step up on the contra spring is the answer. If I understand correctly, a stronger spring should push the belt back up in the clutch sooner, helping to prevent the bog I'm experiencing. Am I on right to change the contra spring, or do I need to drop down a gram on my sliders? They both will do roughly the same job. A stronger torque sheave spring will compress the rear clutch. It will also put more stress on the belt and it will affect the acceleration curve differently than the rollers/sliders. The key is experimentation as there is no real way to know. Every scooter is different. If you are bogging on the turn exit, you can try to keep your RPMs up on the last 1/3 of the turn. However you will put more wear on your brakes to keep your speed in check. Its hard to diagnose the true cause without hearing myself what is going on. Greg Mainely Scooters |
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Nov 21, 2013 20:40:05 GMT -5
How much protection you think you need is up to you. Everyone has their own way of securing (or not securing) their scooter.
Now, my question is where did my huge post count go?
Greg
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