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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 17:34:57 GMT -5
Looks like FUN to me!
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two word game
by: Mainely Scooters - Jan 18, 2014 17:32:37 GMT -5
Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 17:32:37 GMT -5
topic changer
(btw my sister is moving back to Dallas so I won't visit KC after all)
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 17:31:00 GMT -5
The scooter is a 2009 Yamati eurostrada RX8 The mods I've done are: Change they eghaust from stock to expansion pipe like on scrappy dog site under 2 stroke perf. parts. up jet carb. to #  jet and open element air filter. Went from 4 gram to 4.5 gram rollers, 2000 rpm clutch and torque springs. It ran well with this setup. I did have a problem with the splitter on the throttle cable and think I might have to mess with that to make sure the throttle opens all the way. That and a fresh set of roller weights I think might help. I did bypass the oil pump after it started leaking and am running premix now. You have no real need for a new crank, unless there is something wrong with your current one. You will get the best bang for the buck with a new cylinder/head. And it is much easier to do. |
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air filter?
by: Mainely Scooters - Jan 18, 2014 17:29:02 GMT -5
Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 17:29:02 GMT -5
what is the best air filter for my 21 oko carb? i always see uni air filter color red..and what size of inner diameter i should get?where do i order it? Just measure the OD of the venturi inlet. Make sure there is enough clearance to put the UNI on. It may bump against pipes, wires, etc. or may not physically fit. It all depends on how your motor is configured. |
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 17:27:07 GMT -5
Definitely proves the point that just because it says "performance" does not mean it will work with your application!
It sounds like it is tuned for a much larger displacement engine. Bigger is not always better.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 17:25:00 GMT -5
Well, I guess we all have a few holiday pounds we could get rid of, right?
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 17:15:29 GMT -5
It's definitely not enough rotational mass to make any difference.
You would have a greater acceleration difference by losing a pound.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 16:53:01 GMT -5
Lots of website changes. Mobile version works for tablets and phones. We accept Paypal on a limited basis. (Paypal still pisses me off).
We would like YOUR HELP to make a better shop.
What would you like to see? What information would you like to get? How would you like it presented?
I have been working hard to design a site that is not a cookie cutter copy of every other eCommerce site out there that just lists thousands of products in a standard grid. I welcome any and all suggestions!
Greg
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 16:47:58 GMT -5
was adjusting my valves, as I was putting my 4 bolts back into the valve cover, 2 of them snapped... I was able to get the rest of the broken bolts out, but cannot find replacement screws anywhere online. Does anyone know where I can find the screws online; and any tips to prevent this from happening again? Thank you.. Very standard metric thread, available at ANY hardware store. Just bring one down. Why pay $6 for shipping when you can get one for a dime at most hardware stores? |
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 16:46:12 GMT -5
PM me if you want an Ecotrons kit
I have a few kits at 50% off.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 16:44:04 GMT -5
It's really not that hard.
You have to cut the wiring harnesses and properly splice wires. If you have a soldering iron then great. If not, you can twist the wires together but it's not ideal.
First you need to find the power wires to the turn signals. The wiring harnesses are routed differently among the different scooters, sometimes even within the same model year from the same manufacturer. Start from the rear tail lights and work forward. You can find a "convenient" location to splice into.
The ideal way to splice is to solder the wires together. You can possibly get a crimp-on splicing connector from Radio Shack which will work fine. It goes around the main wire with a side socked for a connector.
If you have low power LED lights you just directly splice into the circuit for the signal bulbs. It should work fine without an unbalanced load. If you are using higher power incandescents you need to do a bit more work as you can easily overload the circuit. This won't do much except give you dim lights or burned out bulbs. I won't go into detail for that procedure since you have LED lights.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 16:37:37 GMT -5
It's still riding but when the back wheel is spinning you can hear a sound like a the wine of an electric motor accelerating and the wheel spins somewhat rouph, not smoothly, if anything it improved engine breaking but probably is hurting my gas millage.. The Electric starter is not stuck. It's just the back wheel. as I turned the bike off and spun the wheel on the service stand. I have no Idea what's going on or if it's even saf to ride. I thought it might have been the ball bearing becoming damaged or is it something els?. Also if so do I even have to worry about fixing it?. Will it mean Just worse gas mileage or will the problem get worse, possibly the wheel breaking off or seizing.? Anyway this is a 150 V.I.P. 8000 Km. Have had problem after problem. Bump wasnt that big at all and only at 35 mph. Inspect the tire for obstructions or things rubbing against it. Take off the CVT cover and inspect the belt. It may have jumped and then frayed when you hit the bump. Spin it by hand with the cover off and you can see it move. If it looks good then it's either the clutch or the Variator. Possibly a roller got turned in the variator. You can take off the belt and then spin the rear tire by hand. If it spins fine then its the variator. If it doesn't then you may have a broken spring in the clutch. Either of those issues you will need an impact wrench to remove the clutch bell or the variator nut to inspect. |
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 16:30:39 GMT -5
You won't have ANY success with fixing the muffler mount for any period of time.
There are extreme vibrations. You cannot weld successfully to the engine casing as it is basically pot metal.
You cannot hang from the frame as the motor itself is a swingarm and moves.
You can gerry-rig something that *will* work for a bit but it will eventually fail.
You need a new engine case. Sorry.
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 16:27:44 GMT -5
SUCCESSSSSS Geeze this scooter has been the death of me. I've put more work into this thing then I care to admit. However thanks to you guys on here I've got everything working like I want it to. Pretty good for a 150 with 6500 miles on it. Now it just bogs for a split second at WOT but then it catches back up and it shoot forward (most of the time) Its mostly likely an air fuel thing so I'll get to that in the morning. Just wanted to say thanks guys. Check to make sure the diaphragm is sealed and it slides up and down easily. I would guess with the bog at WOT with a quick throttle twist that it is leaning up. Try raising up the needle a notch or a slightly larger jet. |
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Post by Mainely Scooters on Jan 18, 2014 16:25:28 GMT -5
TLDR.
CDI is bad. Not grounded properly. Bad wire in the harness.
CDI's are cheap. Always have two.
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jet and open element air filter.
