|
|
Oil leaking
by: ramblinman - May 14, 2015 19:35:27 GMT -5
Post by ramblinman on May 14, 2015 19:35:27 GMT -5
Engine code is 1610MK-A. Yeah, I know, it is a odd one. Scooter was sold as a 200cc and displacement is 168.9cc. i'm not finding any parts listed under that code. www.scrappydogscooters.com/gy6-200_GY6-B_case.htmlhalf way down the page scrappy lists a 200cc head but appears the emissions is plugged. i would call them or measure bolt hole distance and start searching. |
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 14, 2015 16:29:49 GMT -5
$65 in parts out for delivery today. money i can't afford to spend. scoot is already tore down to the piston, just waiting on the mailman. was in the garage when he pulled up... woo hoo!... and 10 seconds later was disappointed he doesn't have anything for me. ran upstairs and saw "delivered" nearly 2 hours ago at front door. doesn't make sense since he just left but whatever, checked anyway. so apparently my package was on a different truck and delivered to a different address.  tried calling but didn't get an answer. so what now? i'm out $65 and scoot is still in pieces... damn i need a drink! |
|
|
|
Oil leaking
by: ramblinman - May 13, 2015 23:40:31 GMT -5
Post by ramblinman on May 13, 2015 23:40:31 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 13, 2015 15:26:58 GMT -5
I have a Yamaha Zuma, and a Jonway chinese scoot. I also have a spare GY6 engine with a rear wheel and tire attached, sitting on the kickstand in my garage. If something goes really wrong, it's just 2 bolts and a shock to put the other engine on. I have found the GY6, and the Yamaha pretty similar in reliability. They are basically the same design. The Zuma cost about $2200, the Jonway cost $900. My Jonway actually rides better, and if you compared them both stock, brand new, the Jonway had more power. Yamaha parts are about 3X as much. I don't know that a Japanese "brand name" scoot is necessarily better than a nice GY6. There are some really nice GY6 scooters if you look. It's all personal preference. I happen to really like the Chinese ones. my 150cc jonway was also very reliable. didn't have problems until i passed 12,000km. guess some chinese scoots can be dependable if you sell it before you hit 10,000km |
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 13, 2015 15:17:47 GMT -5
man, don't tell me that. i don't have the money to mess with the crank. i need it to last a few months. i had the cylinder off last week, the rod seems fine. no movement in & out. Well I'll try and be positive and say that maybe the 150cc cranks can handle a bit more abuse after a bearing begins to fail? A few months is a LONG time, though, especially after 500km or so on it already. Not good for the top end either. I didn't mean to make you worry, just have a "plan b" in case you get stranded----- once that crank goes out completely you won't be able to "limp" home. plan B is bicycle, walk or bus. or is that plan B, C & D? currently not working and need to get this scoot on the road so i can go find a paycheck. i guess if it holds up until i have some income trickling in then i could order the part(s). maybe it will hold up longer since it's the variator side and not the rod bearings.  or so i hope |
|
|
|
i give up
by: ramblinman - May 12, 2015 23:46:13 GMT -5
Post by ramblinman on May 12, 2015 23:46:13 GMT -5
It'll go out any day now. Surprised you got 500km out of it, but in my experiences the rod bearings went quicker than the side bearings once symptoms started. man, don't tell me that. i don't have the money to mess with the crank. i need it to last a few months. i had the cylinder off last week, the rod seems fine. no movement in & out. |
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 12, 2015 13:10:16 GMT -5
Even so it ran fine before? My ole man says it ran before the valves shouldn't need adjustment. it takes 30 minutes and is the likely problem from your symptoms. valves will get tight over time, especially on a newer scoot. when they become too tight it effects performance, top speed is lost, hard starts and stalls at low rpm. |
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 12, 2015 12:37:28 GMT -5
i've never seen a flywheel without timing marks so i would double check the valves first.
if you are positive they are set correctly then it's either time to purchase a compression tester or go ahead and pull the cylinder. you'll need new gaskets and new rings, hone the cylinder, reinstall everything correctly and you should be good to go.
i recently had low compression from improperly installed rings or somehow they moved over time. when the gaps lined up it dropped my compression to 100psi (warm) causing difficult starts and erratic idle.
|
|
|
|
i give up
by: ramblinman - May 12, 2015 6:18:14 GMT -5
Post by ramblinman on May 12, 2015 6:18:14 GMT -5
Are you certain the variator side crank bearing is going out? You're looking for up/down/left/right play, don't worry so much about in/out play. Your scoot's engine will sound like a diesel, too. yeah i'm positive, about 500km ago i changed the variator and noticed a lot of movement. i didn't try pushing in or out. its not as quiet anymore either. wish i had the money and time to fix or at least wish i knew how long before catastrophic failure. |
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 11, 2015 17:54:10 GMT -5
It ran fine for a few weeks. After that the problems started. i'd bet my shirt the valves need adjustment |
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 11, 2015 17:43:35 GMT -5
adjust valves and if that doesn't solve your problem check compression.
|
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 11, 2015 17:36:30 GMT -5
I can see myself buying parts online from the US, I do it all the time with my car and Chinese scooter  that's funny cause sometimes i order parts from Costa Rica.  |
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 11, 2015 14:06:01 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 11, 2015 11:32:23 GMT -5
non adjustable needle. How do I rig the needle to be leaner? I know you can put spacers to make it richer, but what about leaner? i don't think it's possible to go leaner. you'll have to change the jet. |
|
|
|
Post by ramblinman on May 11, 2015 11:26:11 GMT -5
after 3 failed attempts to stop an oil leak using the old gasket i've decided to do it right. ordered new gaskets, rings, camshaft and rocker arm assembly. my cam has bad bearings and is fused to the rocker arm. also picked up 320 and 600 grit sandpaper to clean up the head so i get a good seal. once this project is complete it should be like new... well, except for a bad crankshaft bearing. it's always something.  |
|
Anyone know where I might be able to purchase a head assembly for this engine. It is not just a standard 150 head though. The head is similar to this one, but has a PVC system on it. 
