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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 21:33:11 GMT -5
here's a video for you, but I suppose they are wrong too
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 21:18:55 GMT -5
I know exactly what I'm talking about and how it works, if you would shut up and listen long enough, you might learn something, I just carefully explained the effects of both a jammed drive boss on the front pulley and a jammed torque driver on the rear pulley, neither will destroy a belt in a half mile, the belt will stay in a single ratio. Also a blocked air intake is not going to destroy a belt that quickly, you really need to do some research to understand how this CVT actually works, the contra spring only pushes the rear pulley sheaves back together to allow the belt to ride back up the pulley as engine RPM decreases, the variator weights moving up their ramps, move the front pulley halves together, forcing the belt towards the top, if the belt can't move downwards, in the rear pulley, the weight of the rollers can't overcome the contra spring, and the belt stays where it is, it acts like you have rollers that are two light,
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 20:40:46 GMT -5
gotta go Wolfman. Best of both worlds, a man combined with a doggie. Oh wait, he's not a doggie? Uh..... well the women will love it, at least the freaky ones.
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 20:20:38 GMT -5
I know of two things that can cause that one is a clogged air intake for the variator cooling fan the other is a jammed cam in the driven pulley the clogged intake just cooks the rubber until it crumbles the jammed pulley will crush the belt with excessive squeezing so remove the filter from the intake and very carefully throw it away😒 dum things a waste of crummy plastic. Check the pulley by squeezing the outside sheave against the clutch bell with both hands. it should open up enough for the belt to drop in most of the way if it gets stuck .... well say hi to uncle Bob the pulley will not crush the belt, it will simply stay in one ratio, and you won't move very fast, there isn't some hydraulic ram in the pulley that smashes things. if the variator pulley has a jammed drive boss or flat spotted rollers, it will simply stay in low ratio and you won't get past a certain speed, if the rear torque driver is jammed, the belt can't move to the center, because the centrifugal force of the weights can't move the belt. again you stay in one ratio.
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 20:14:55 GMT -5
there is no "cam" in the pulley, it's called a torque driver, Warpig, what brand of belt are you using? some of the cheap ebay and Amazon belts are known for breaking that quickly, what type of Variator did you buy? if it's a Glixal, throw it away and get a stock replacement style. I've got one of those piece of craps around here somewhere, the drive boss pin will seize, keeping you in one ratio. what weight rollers are in your variator? have you changed the contra spring, or anything in the clutch assembly? how are you installing the belt? removing the outer pulley sheave, or are you trying to pry it on? can you post pictures?
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 19:53:02 GMT -5
I bought the X pro one, I found it on another parts site, and it was highly rated, I back traced it to Amazon, it was only 20 bucks, but the quality difference is huge, I have never seen my lights as bright as they are now, and my battery is charging at 14.6 volts. I'm going to go with the 11 pole, but just not this minute. This is the first stator I've seen in an actual box with a brand name, not some nameless part in a bag.
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 5, 2017 19:47:00 GMT -5
this is the issue with the Iglobalbuy crap, they routed all the wires wrong on stator assembly, none were in reliefs, but ran on top of the plastic cores, so as soon as the bike turned over, the flywheel destroyed the wires . This stator also had the heat sleeving missing, just open wires, and the grommet for the wires didn't fit the GY6 opening. I had to reuse my original heat sleeving, grommet, and pickup, as the new one didn't work.
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 4, 2017 14:20:31 GMT -5
Lost you are my new hero!!!! Thanks for the link to the crimper,,,it'll be in my tool box by Sunday ,,,there's a bone right there I hope it holds up good it looks to be pretty straight forward
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frustrated
by: lostforawhile - Nov 4, 2017 14:00:15 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lostforawhile on Nov 4, 2017 14:00:15 GMT -5
The factory gaskets are really thin, you get get a roll of good gasket material at the parts store for cheap, and make much better gaskets
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frustrated
by: lostforawhile - Nov 4, 2017 13:57:25 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by lostforawhile on Nov 4, 2017 13:57:25 GMT -5
I'm thinking he meant gas, on the spacer get some gasket material, make a couple of good gaskets for both sides of the nanifold, seal them with permatex anerobic sealer, and don't use the o rings at all, make sure you clean the gasket surface on the head, and carefully check your intake for cracks.
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 4, 2017 1:14:58 GMT -5
I just can't see a running engine being shut off,then developing a major internal issue from trying to restart it,it's most likely you bumped something while installing the cable
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 4, 2017 0:16:04 GMT -5
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 4, 2017 0:09:05 GMT -5
The spacer has another o ring and gasket which can leak between the spacer and block, or spacer and intake, the spacer is very brittle and bakes on the head,if you disturbed it at all its never going to seal again they are really cheap on ebay, order several for spares
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 3, 2017 8:43:26 GMT -5
it was a failing charge coil, then the new stator the charge coil is good, but no ac volts out, just got another one finally after 5 tries, from Amazon lets hope this one works, one bad one, 3 lost or misdirected in shipping, and now this one, it looks to be of higher quaity, I'll be converting to an 11 pole setup next month anyway
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Post by lostforawhile on Nov 3, 2017 6:48:24 GMT -5
you're fine, you would be surprised at how many people think it's DC out
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