Recent Posts  By   (Read times)

ok, update.

I changed out the crnk seals and the a9 cam now won't start???

timing, vvs, gas, and air, all good. Then I noticed the two holes and one good sized rip on carb. diaphragm!

still with this, Am I missing any??

I am what I am in my sig. except for the iridium plug. Got to tell you guys about that as well.

Fist bought my scoot, 0-1000mi. orig. plug, changed to an NGK ran for 1500mi. and changed to iridium. 1500mi. later I had spark prob. SO.... I checked the plug only to find out the center dode was hanging off the side of the ceramic coting. I changed back to the NGK plug with 1500mi. on it. Rouhg about 7500mi on this NGK plug.

Ok, Now about the A9.
Is there any other cams for the stock 50cc???

I've seen on you tube, gy6 unspecified cc's, that he broke both vv springs inner and outter from just installing an A9 cam.

Is this true on a stock app??

scrappy's mo says it is ok to use on stock app.

what do you guys say?

I'm just a fifty no bore.

6g sliders shaved, this gives awesome perfomance.
{ run the sliders upside down [and wow, the take off but not much top speed perf.] about 5k mi. or untill you get two seperate flat spots on them. (file the sliders, keeping shape, 1mm or about 2mm from the center ring) Great acceleration from 20-45 on the chine-o-meter and lacks from 45-52ish. whereas, when i first bought them, put in the right way, good acceleration all the way through the band untill 45 where it normaly slacks.
I figure the springs will take the rest. (Acceleration)

About the springs, you know how when you take a coiled cable to lock up with, grab the two ends and twist it one way and the coil gets bigger the other way gets smaller.

Well, with rod bending, to make suspension coils, works the same way only the spring is set to a specified spec you can effect the perf. of the spring by this method.

Stretching the T-spring does the same as twisting. Since you can't mess with the diameter.
The down fall of this method is the springs wear faster cause of the stress from this method. though, it would be great for a drag secret.

This was done as a test to see if it was wear that is effecting the perforance of the scoot.

And, this thread was to clarify.

I am at this point using toilet parts for my gas cap.

I have the following;
1. 2 eye bolts
2. 3 small master locks 3/8s lock w 1/8 shank
3. 1 bigger master lock 3/4 lock 1/4 shank
4. 1 3/8s kryptonite braided 6' cable

example;
The 2 eye bolts bolted on where the front reflectors go. 2 of the small locks are for helmets. The other small lock is locked to the front brake disc.
because, it is harder to get the rear wheel off, I lock up the rear with the cable. You have to unbolt the exhaust to get the tire off.


And, for your question;
a. u-locks I think are worthless unless u lock the bike up to something. that goes for any lock alarm or not.

Remember, two guys and truck, gone in less than half-A-minute. Oh yeah, two foot bolt cutters and a hacksaw I'll get through any lock/cable/chain u want to carry. With bolt cutters I can get through 1/2" chain and even my cable. My small locks they are off in three strokes of a hacksaw.

b. As for the wheel steering lock, lol, those things are a joke. Half-A-Second it's broken.
Brass locking pin Good!
Cast aluminum ignition case Not Good!
There really is no way to keep your bike safe enough to put your mind at ease.

they are not the same size!