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if you're good, and I mean good at mechine work. You can drill the hole a slight bigger tap it out and re-thread it. should use thread lock of some type and souldn't have no probs.
Either that, or buy a new head, which ever it may be, BBK or stock.
I would suggest the 80cc motor assembly or the 100 from scrppy. complete motors

500+ mi. and still tap but more of a clack when warmed up. it sounds very loose.
whats up guys gals

clear 3/8 o.d. hose from honda is what I got. works great, very tough stuff. I also got the 1/4" in-line "stone catridge type" fuel filter. I don't like the paper or gauze filters.
Very tough to put on but works great with no clamps. clamps are in place, really don't need'em, But they are there for insurance.
Also, it was cheaper than going to a scooter shop.

ok, I fixed the prob. so I put pair canister back on, right. everthing back to normal other than the slight choke and the backfire. the reason I took the crank vent hose off of the intake is because it was throwing oil through the intake.
this is what I did different. I have a brake bleeder from harbor freight, it comes with a canister to hold the brake fluid. I figured that this would act as a crank vent/oil catch can.
vwala, problem solved. Apperently, it need the air from the crank to be re-circulated.
She runs great now, like new. other than the loud tapping, just doesn't seem right. vvs

Alleyoop, The tube I'm talking about connects to #3 in the 4th diag pic on this page:
www.chinese-parts-canada.com/parts_gy6_139qmp.html
the tube that comes off number 3 goes to the canister valve like thing. (Pair)
it's a double vac line intake one line goes to the petcock and the other one goes to the bottom of the canister. now, when wot the vac opens the canister to let the engine breath, i suppose. kinda like a pcv valve, come to think of it. let off trottle valve closes. the top tube coming off of the canister has a filter.

when I took the pair sys off this is what I did. I pluged one vac off intk. re-routed the vac to ptck, instead of the 120* turn it was making and straightened its' path, also shortened the tubing. the big tube coming off of num. 3 on the diag. is now free-flow with the pair filter in line.
if I plug this line she runs with lacking power and wants to die. So, I kept it open (to breath) with the filter in-line

walkthrough:
carb, tube to the air box, air box, filter cage and filter, snorkle tube, and four hole restrict peice.

now the 4hole I cut out. I cut a speaker grill to fit inside the 4hole as a screen. I then cut a small round lock key so when placed on the front of the 4hole 4 holes exist. when placed on the screen it gives a little more air. note: I did this thinking that I had no a/f scrw (before carb clean and found it) and adjusted the air flow this way.

the crankcase vent tube went to the snorkle tube (before the airbox, after the 4hole). I cant plug it and I know it needs to vent. unconnected it, yes, I took a fuel filter and set it in-line.

The diags in the above site are exactly what my engine looks like to the tee.

if there is something I missed then exuse me. I'll write in later.

yes pluged good. though it wouldn'e run right so connected to the big hose off of the vv cover is the filter that goes on after the pair can. that's the only part that is open. the big hose sucks in and it blows out. normal not sure.
on the vac hose to petcock I'll use the brake bleeder.

vac is a tad wet.