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Post by vintagepgogod123 on May 16, 2016 18:31:21 GMT -5
Anyone got a free muffler and upper cover shroud burien, WA
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on May 16, 2016 16:24:23 GMT -5
Main numbers stamped is 1P39qmb year stamp is 07. Emissions have been pre deleted i cleaned the carb up but i am 4 pieces short due to budget forcing me to sell my 2t motor to fix my 4 stroke. NO,NO,NO!!! You are doing things backwards!!!! Sell the four poke to fix the blue smoker. Why, keep both |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on May 16, 2016 16:21:04 GMT -5
Yup. Most CO.Mon type of 50cc 4 stroke scooter/ATV engines. Personally, I would sell or part out the four poke to get the two stroke screaming again. Minarelli TWO stroke type engines are the most versatile and stabile scoot motor around. Not to mention all the hop up parts that are available. I prefered to still run the 4 t off my bicycle vs my scooter the 4t has easier maintenance vs 2t in age. Im keeping both but i only need a shroud and exhaust for the other. Wish someone had a free shroud in wa for gy6 to give me, my 2t is not a minarelli its a old PGO based off honda aero af05 which lacks new parts period vs my 4t 07 that 2t can outrun police behind a bicycle as less weight thus cutting corners and alleys without the fear of panel damage. I treat my scooter body like a baby not running naked til i find mold mods if you have seen aero 50 naked i would love wood crafted fender above frame with bolt in tail lights. I can plate swap on it because the motors registered under the vin |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on May 10, 2016 10:53:08 GMT -5
Just brought a 2007 gy6 tank motor, Oviously this ones a work in progress previous owner claimed he cleaned the carb but thats obviously a lie. Anyone have any info on gy6 tank 4 stroke cases? This engine has good compression at least i think she does plugged the carb spark plug hole partially plugged the exhaust was a tiny bit of pressure. Best $40.00 spent with the wheel. Most of the older tanks had the long case, give us the model number that's stamped on the engine. JR Main numbers stamped is 1P39qmb year stamp is 07. Emissions have been pre deleted i cleaned the carb up but i am 4 pieces short due to budget forcing me to sell my 2t motor to fix my 4 stroke. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 25, 2016 22:47:30 GMT -5
Just brought a 2007 gy6 tank motor,
Oviously this ones a work in progress previous owner claimed he cleaned the carb but thats obviously a lie.
Anyone have any info on gy6 tank 4 stroke cases?
This engine has good compression at least i think she does plugged the carb spark plug hole partially plugged the exhaust was a tiny bit of pressure.
Best $40.00 spent with the wheel.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 19, 2016 8:55:40 GMT -5
OK vintagepgogod123 so what is working and what is not again and I'll need to know some wire colors of what isn't working and you may have to do some voltage checks for me? JR Only the head lights/highbeams and dash lights everything on the ac side i will take notes on the color codes and report back. Btw i found a crap load of parts finally my leads are Hungary, italy, and germany. Found the grand daddy of them all a big bore kit polini 70cc |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 17, 2016 9:14:22 GMT -5
1987. Pgo star50. Case based off  -87 aero 50. Cylinder 1984 honda aero. Nb50 Nb50 to se50.. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 16, 2016 20:00:42 GMT -5
My whole dimmer/high beam/ dash light switch bit the dust I have two sets of switches on the non throttle side. I wish to add them as toggle switches for now, in the future i will be stripping my dashboard anyway for upgrade whixh will allow me to monitor cht, air fuel ratio, voltage, mph instead of stock gauges. Any help for wiring the dash lights on its own circuit? The head lights and high beams will be on its own circuit.   The holy wire has been clipped and fixed. Still no lights to gauges and head only turn aignals work and are on the right throttle side. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 16, 2016 19:50:54 GMT -5
Amongst survival gap is considerable in a two stroke because of one piston. No simotanious firing needed in my findings on a ngk br8 hs the plug works best at stock gap .28mm after it fouls out from use time it continues operation fouled pwrfwctly at a .40 gap.
It runs fine my current concerns is the head light rewiring tune into my new post.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 16, 2016 14:18:57 GMT -5
what kind of cdi are you using? John ....... AC cdi bare stock for the last 16 years to my knowledge  af05e. Fair for now but needs some finer tuning, gas is fine, oiling is good, new lines, oil trans fluid, things of that naturenature area. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 14, 2016 10:20:55 GMT -5
They make high-torque starters for scooters. I'd suggest checking the banner ads at the top of this page when looking for parts because both, www.partsforscooters.com and www.scrappydogscooters.com, have them for the 150cc Chinese engines. Scrappy also has one for the 139qmb engines. What kind of engine and/or scooter do both of you have? It's helps us help you (faster) knowing that information upfront---I'm sure not every scooter has high torque starters available, but since Chinese scooters are so common I thought I'd throw that out there. That's why I have my scooter's make, model, and engine in my signature so people know what they're dealing with. Although some "mobile" versions of websites don't show signatures and that's why, if I'm on my phone, I click the "desktop" tab at the bottom of any page of this site to double check people's sigs. I know a couple people on here have upgraded to bigger gauge wire for the starter and battery and had good results by doing that alone. I thought about doing that myself and I may this year. 87 PGO STAR COPY BETTER MADE THEN HONDA AERO my cylinder is based off the nb50 for the jug which is aero but the case is a late model 86-87 honda aero due to the four bolt intake. Very hard to decither lately ive been concidering pgo upgrades from the new models. Wish i could find a sacrifice new model beater to feed the guts to my old scoot. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 14, 2016 10:13:50 GMT -5
im no longer facing the problem after replacing my coil so i dont need any help, just putting my experience out there incase it helped the guy. im in britain and sourcing one over here has been more difficuly but as i said i no longer need one. Can a bad coil create run on and no poqee to the head lights? |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 14, 2016 10:12:09 GMT -5
i would always keep the kick start as a back up! its not exactly taking up much room is it? a high torque starter (if they exist and im sure they dont as i was trying to source one a few months ago ) will draw more power you dont want to be stuck at the side of the road wishing you kept the kick start on. i had same issue a few months ago for me it was a bad coil, water had got in and so the spark wasnt very strong while using the starter. i would love one myself if you manage to find one but i spent a couple of hours searching and couldnt find one... If i dont finish this engine work my bodies gonna fall apart too old to keep pulling plastics... What about the headlight and dash circuit? Turn signals work, horn works, but why does the gauge accessory lights and headlight work last item wired up was the enruchner. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 13, 2016 23:02:49 GMT -5
Scooter starts on 1-2 kick. But not powerful enough for starting engine?
I use it as a primer due too just not enough turn ratio on high compression piston do they make high torue starters? If i can get a good enough starter i plan on deleting the kick starter.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 12, 2016 15:31:35 GMT -5
Hi all, jonway madness yy50qt-31. i have a currently annoying problem and I keep thinking i fixed it then it rears its ugly intermittent head... when i switch off the key the engine keeps running, all the lights dash fuel gauge etc go off so it appears the ignition switch is working. Now I know one of the things to check is the earth wire for the cdi I have a side stand cut out and that works so that tells me the cdi and the wires to it are fine. I don't have a kill switch on the dash like some scoots just a side stand cut out and ignition. there are 2 red wires under my seat the main ones from the battery, I will show you an image, now when I was moving the wires in that area then engine would cut out as it should so it's a loose wire or broken wire somewhere I just can't find it. I spent ages and it seemed as though the connection onto the starter solonoid was intermittent so I chopped an inch off and replaced the end re-installed and all was good while it was still, went for a ride came back and bam issue back again, I'm hoping someone with good electrical knowledge of the gy6 harness can point me in the right direction so I can try and find the culprit wire. Now some info to help with your diagnosis. while the key is off I can still kick start the engine so it's acting as if the ignition is un-hooked (I can 100% confirm the ignition is working fine and the wires connecting to it are as I have chopped and re ended them tested with multi meter all working as it should) so I think there must be a break further into the harness (somewhere near under the seat as per before) I do have an alarm system with remote start yes I have presses the unlock button and it doesn't kill the engine. I have started it with the fob but again pressing the unlock key does not stop the engine only the side stand does. I have removed the alarm system and put a bridge on it as per other threads I have found this does not solve my problem. Any help appreciated. on another note fuse blew and I was reading 18v at the headlights so think my rectifier is broken, I have replaced and all is good again with that now just wondering if a connector somewhere might have been burnt out or a wire. I have stripped the bike back to the frame trying to sort this and replaced most of the spade terminals and connector blocks can't find any culprit seems like it's a break in a wire somewhere. can someone using the above info work out which wire or part of the harness I need to look at, again to summarise, key off engine continues to run, if I kill it with the side stand I can again start it by the kick start while the key is off, all lights dash fuel gauge etc are off while key is off as they should be they come on when I turn the key on long post but hopefully enough info for someone to help bring back my sanity intermittent issues really are the worst!!! Image below is not of my bike but is same set up mines locked away at moment Thanks Your pilots too rich, how about that air fuel mixture eh? |
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-87 aero 50. Cylinder 1984 honda aero. Nb50
af05e.