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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 12, 2016 15:25:50 GMT -5
I was born in 1993 and I have been trying to find a bike from the year I was born but it has been very hard I live in canada so shipping the frame might be expensive but I really just want the vin plate and the vin number that is stamped in the frame. I don't plan on useing them on anything if both vin numbers are located on the front of the bike by the head tube I will buy the whole front half of the frame. It would mean alot to me if I can find a vin from the year I was born. Razz and spree same thing aero riva tact pgo star all the same thing. You wouldnt be near quebec canada right if so i have a spare time favor to ask for as pgo for my year was delt out of canada. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 12, 2016 15:22:10 GMT -5
i need to sell some stuff and too lazy to post on ebay il make a list here of what i have if you need something email me mopedjay@gmail.com and i can send pics 1986 Honda Aero 50 (Black): plastics wheels other misc bits and pieces brand new stock size cylinder kit for Honda AF18 (spree and aero) Kymco People 50 front and rear wheels Benelli(Chinese People/Scarabeo clone) 16'' wheels Linhai 260 engine has new head missing clutch and variator a few GY6 150cc parts engines 1E40QMB parts engines 1983 Suzuki Katana bits (gas tank seat rear plastics wheels) 1981 Suzuki GS850 (complete bike runs but not in great shape titled in Florida needs carbs rebuilt) 1986 Honda Elite 250 engine parts all kinds of other misc bits and pieces for all kinds of scooters mopeds and motorcycles Wanted free exhaust ring inbox me. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 12, 2016 9:58:25 GMT -5
Carb Carburetor 19mm For Honda 2 Stroke 50cc Dio 50 SP ZX34 35 SYM Kymco Scooter clone carb needs jets
19mm
42mm bolt mounting
35mm air filter.
Please note this is a chinese carb who knows the jet size please let me know.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 4, 2016 12:46:35 GMT -5
Be mindful that its just a thing. Don't really need to remember much specific to it since its a fairly simple two stroke. If its been sitting indoors unused for so long and has no appreciable wear I don't really understand replacing the piston and such since only the fuel lines and high tension wires really needed attention along with a carb bowl gasket with a float valve seat. Mostly should have just needed cleaning up and replacing of the rubber/leather parts. Now if you were talking 1950's 35 to 50 hp automatic compression release two stroke outboard boat motors that is a whole nother matter. Dealing with the floating trigger coils, daisy read plates and automatic compression release mechanisms can be very challenging especially when they have been sitting unused for over 40 years after being exposed to salt water. Getting those twins with their big iron wedge pistons running can be frustrating but satisfying. A big Twin Evenrude or Johnson from the 50's has a certain music to it when its running right. Satifaction is forever but the orginal piston was chipped, but after my findings it is probably "me" who f'd it over after rebuild. Now that i know as much as i do now I am thinking I screwed up my timing at the pickup on the cvt side before the rebuild. Ticking and dieseling after hot sounds like i should be pulling my cover and move the pickup back to the center. I cant remember but i think it should be adjusted to the rear tire side undrilled but i cant remember if i drilled out both sides in that case i can take two fingers and pinch it til it feels even on both sides which will center it back. I dont trust timing the pickup with the engine on, sounds like there is a chance that it can hit the magnetic point leading to snapping the pickup at the bump. "Im knee deep in my scooter sloshing the fuel around like we been down since 87." Piston is far from stock but is stock on newer models peep game 1984 aero nb50m rated at 40mm x 39.3 (dished low compression piston) now changed to 40mm x 39.2 (Dome top high compression) The .1 is subtracted to clear the cylinder head change in characteristics in the past before tanked it only went 42kph now redlines at 50kph no butting or lag. 50kph last calculated at 31.63 mph gps on app on no cvt upgrade meaning my previous speed was less then probably 25mph The dome increases top speed by a short circuit effect in combustion. The heat is evenly distributed between the pipes and cylinder excluding the tick factor caused by funky timing when fully at temp. Making it preform has not been an issue i just want her ready for a rev limit delete and have it dyno tested to see its stress level @ red line. If limiter is deleted im speculating 40-45mph on slight heavier rollers which will require me to own two cvts Pulley systems stock rollers are currently well for pulling me and my giant bag of tools together we top at 210lbs max. For speeding days just me and the bike thats only 154-156 lbs second cvt will contain lighter clutch with heavier rollers which pushes the ability to get up a hill lower round 20kph to 15kph speculation but on flat land pushes you further away from redline by rpm meaning the 10mm crank wrist pin will have to be tested to match the max rpm that can be handled. (The enemy can talk but as of now this scooter is so old that it got lost in its time PGO Star been out since 87-  if i am correct the problem with the 87 model is when you first build by pgo they kind of cloned honda (jug match is a  Nb50 which means its cloned or based off.) Was not until 1990 that jug style leaned more into yamaha jog style the 83 model of the cv50 riva/buluga matched as well to a tee but some models applied the reeds in the jugs them selves vs in the case siding. #snaps finger# |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 3, 2016 17:31:29 GMT -5
I have not been deeply involved with two strokes for some years so I am behind on the new plastic reed valves however it is surprising that with only 890 miles there would be so many issues. The bike should just be broken in and should have only required a good cleaning of the fuel system and some polishing of the reed and plate. bike was built in 87 but sat undriven in a garage for 18 of its undriven life if you spend all that time from valves sitting of corse their bad. I can check them but i can guarentee  % that there f'd off from their first high speed drive in 28 years as they probably only been changed 1 time if the reeds are not good then my timing is off why i say reed is because of tick when fully warmed up and splooge at low idle cold which means it has to be partially open on one of the sides. Its got a new upgraded piston with rings, oil lines, gas lines,battery etc. I fixed it my self meaning not even PGO them selves remember crap about this scooter anymore. Last is reeds, Cvt gearing, and rear brake pads. "I tell ya everyone calls me a foo for it but i died for my scooter, i will go ham on anyone who f's with it. "Ever seen a mother hawk f somone up over her babies? Ya well thats me..." |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 2, 2016 23:21:05 GMT -5
Depends on overall condition of the motor. An older 2 stroke needs some TLC to make it right. First is to ensure that the reed valves are clean without any pitting and that the carb is pristinely clean. Was there an oil injection system on that model or are you mixing oil with gas in the fuel tank at every fill up? 20 mph uphill may be a pretty good number for that bike if its an accurate reading. A 50cc can bog down to even less depending on the hill and the weight of the rider.. In general exhaust ports on the cylinder carbon up and need to be cleaned out as part of normal maintenance especially on the older 2 strokes or they get restricted causing overheating and poor performance. That is why many insist on only using the better 2 stroke oils to prevent carbon build up and extend the time between exhaust port cleanings. Also verify that you have the correct size tires on the bike. 5 mph deviation at 30 is about normal not 20 mph and hitting engine redline indicated by the tachometer at a true 31 mph is not really right on a 50cc 2 stroke scooter and would be more likely at a true 45 or 50 mph albeit while going down hill. So really look closely at tire sizes, stuck sheaves not opening and closing fully, worn rollers, streatched belt, etc. As for max that a 50cc 2 stroke can do my 1972 Motobecane Mobyette would do 40 tops and that was an old school pedal style moped. The 50cc Yamaha scooter of the day would do 45 mph top without redlining. A more modern Aprilia Ditec 50 2 stroke can top out at around 65 mph. Yes worn or cracked reed valves can tick. What are my reed options? Afo5e non metal or plastic stock plz. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Apr 2, 2016 10:55:45 GMT -5
Af05e needs new reed valves and or block
I am having trouble figuring what to go with as there is several differant styles.
The only thing i can think of is that i will be running at high rpm. Close to redline which is currently 31.63mph before cvt upgrades i need something that can withstand high speed without breaking the bank.
Stock af05e uses flat type 2 petal reed valves if i rebuild that the thickness is my main concern. Malossi uses .25 - .35 thickness 35 sounds as ot wont respond to low idle (stock start up.) the difference between my version is its not a 40mm x 39.3 dish low compression its been upgraded to 40mm x 39.2 dished piston.
It runs a uni filter so all preformance must be ready for crank upgrade in the future but without losing low range start up.
The reeds are probably plastic or metal type dog sh# cause they are slapping under load. Its confirmed by honda motor cycle over the phone that my reeds are shot thus eliminating any chance of my carb being out of wack by jetting.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 30, 2016 12:15:22 GMT -5
Depends on overall condition of the motor. An older 2 stroke needs some TLC to make it right. First is to ensure that the reed valves are clean without any pitting and that the carb is pristinely clean. Was there an oil injection system on that model or are you mixing oil with gas in the fuel tank at every fill up? 20 mph uphill may be a pretty good number for that bike if its an accurate reading. A 50cc can bog down to even less depending on the hill and the weight of the rider.. In general exhaust ports on the cylinder carbon up and need to be cleaned out as part of normal maintenance especially on the older 2 strokes or they get restricted causing overheating and poor performance. That is why many insist on only using the better 2 stroke oils to prevent carbon build up and extend the time between exhaust port cleanings. Also verify that you have the correct size tires on the bike. 5 mph deviation at 30 is about normal not 20 mph and hitting engine redline indicated by the tachometer at a true 31 mph is not really right on a 50cc 2 stroke scooter and would be more likely at a true 45 or 50 mph albeit while going down hill. So really look closely at tire sizes, stuck sheaves not opening and closing fully, worn rollers, streatched belt, etc. As for max that a 50cc 2 stroke can do my 1972 Motobecane Mobyette would do 40 tops and that was an old school pedal style moped. The 50cc Yamaha scooter of the day would do 45 mph top without redlining. A more modern Aprilia Ditec 50 2 stroke can top out at around 65 mph. Yes worn or cracked reed valves can tick. Retake, my actual up hill speed at kph is 14-15 mph at 20kph. More information: my carb is new with a full set up of new clear type lines to oil injection as well for fuel lines. It needs a new vaccum cock but is running currently as gravity style on a briggs fuel tap turned on just a pinch off the "o" mark. I have yet to inspect my reed valves is just about the only thing i did not do yet is it possiable for a bad reed to mimick or sound like is coming from the top end? When throttle is cracked open thats when tap occurs at idle shes quiet. The overall health before i rebuilt the top end custom with retrofitting a upgraded piston from dish to dome was flawless no crank play, good fitting needle bearing, etc. Whole top end except jug and cranks was replaced. There is only 1 used jug left on the market after that i will have to hirr a machinest to update mt case to take a new cylinder unless a nq50 fits up well. The belt is stretched from previous carb being bad for sure and possiably rollers are waiting on a trash can other then that i think my main issues rely in old assed reed valves. I would like to change my reed pedals to race carbon fiber as carbon reeds when they break they burn up upon getting sucked into the engine vs steel and plastic which kill your whole engine. What ever that tick is its not major or else she would not have as much kick before i started truely fixing her. Got her at 830 miles on speedo now has 890 miles i put 20 miles before the 830 and im second owner she was garage kept sleep for 18 years by orginal owner of brewington scooters back in early 90s. All damage on her is either from me fixing it as far as the plastics go and my kids playing around on it parked. WHAT EVER IS TICKING IS NOTHING TO DO WITH RED LINING OR THE CRANK/TOP end. Also i need to change to smell good oil preformance i did my rebuild on shitty valvoline 2 cycle multi purpose oil. In the process of phasing it out i want her poot to smell like chocolate or strawberry lol Heres an example of how i am sure my reeds are bad my scooter sounds like this ticking. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 30, 2016 11:48:22 GMT -5
May not be able to elaborate... but if it is sparking after shut-off: It is not shut-off: Maybe contacts shorting in the ignition switch or other electrical locations. Or there is excessive heating maybe pre-ignition? If there is fuel, ignition (spark or something acting like a glow-plug) and compression; the engine will continue to run until one is interrupted. Never had a scoot that did that but just throwing out something that may be helpful. Tired and going to sleep. Check back and see how this goes. Night, all. Thanks for everything...for real. I figured my plug is too hot big numbers = cold smaller = hotter In referance to my plugs i am running br8hs ngk 8 being closer off the warm side the 7 plugs foul quicker but is hotter then 8 i am basing my plugs off heat range not specified oem because of lack of manual but on simular aplications ranging from honda aero 1983- calls for 6-8 plugs as well for 90s and up calls for 6-8 heat range. My compression is also higher at a stock upgraded then stock for my year dish top low compression honda aero 40mm x 39.3 from 83- to dome top 40mm x 39.2 for pgo to minarelli typed new school pistons figured thats why my scooter taps under load. Possiably. No chance that the ignition switch is at fault because i pulled the plug boot and she still ran normal and strong. Usually if she dont kill off by gravity petcock i can turn the switch off and snap the throttle and she cuts streight off. Its still too cold to judge operation based of plugs i dont wish to rejet the pilot if its not nessasary when hot out when its cold they say you need smaller piolet vs bigger in summer but i smoke mildly at idle enough to look like a car exhaust in healthy condition. Most of the time smoke is close to invisiable may also need pickup coil retardation. Hit me back.... I found a video for comparison, this is what i hear when i rise under load |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 29, 2016 20:41:45 GMT -5
currently it runs rich on the piolet circuit may change when it gets hotter out won't know until weather temp goes up but I have to kill the fuel flow to shut her down at 41 degrees. I found if it still runs rich in the hotter 70s perfect for expansion upgrade but it's a cloned carby. She runs lovely I can red line not sure if this is correct but my GPS indicates 31.83 mph while dash indicates about 50 redlining. Hitting the red line means you're about to destroy the engine. You usually do not redline a near to 30 year old vintage ride. You really do not want a connecting rod coming loose and poking through the side of the block. Im aware now, so why am i only doing 31.63 mph ? Isnt 35 max a scoot can go? She already ticks upon hitting the throttle but at idle she makes no noises somone said its because i dont have an exhaust gasket. Wouldnt heavier rollers on it bring up my final speed i dont want to dog her though. If she cant do it legally by standard parts upgrade then maybe its time for a 4t swap and save my old case for super forged overhauling. Can a bad reed tick as well? |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 29, 2016 10:02:23 GMT -5
Drive my scoot around town the other day and when I got to the smoke shop flipped the switch off it ran for 4 minutes after with no electric source supplied I am running a very hot spark plug because my piolets to big for colder weather.
I had to shut off the pet cock and it still ran a bit after but I do notice when she runs on if I kill the power and snap the throttle she shuts off instantly.
In regards to lighting does the head light circuit control the gauge panel lighting?
I also have a slight ticking after acceleration, I suspect wrong timing. Elaborate please.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 28, 2016 13:37:25 GMT -5
The ad says "2 stroke" but you didn't say what your scoot is. It likely wouldn't work on a 2 stroke, in spite of what the ad says since 2 strokes require a tuned exhaust. Regardless, these mufflers need to be fitted by hand since the headpipe is different from one model to another. The other reader suggested using a 1" pipe and adjusting it to fit. I've never found one that fits right out of the box. Cutting & welding nearly always required. I have a 2t depending on upcoming heat I may be able to squeeze in expansion chamber. Piolet is currently rich at 41degrees with 50kph/31.63 GPS verified. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 28, 2016 13:28:35 GMT -5
currently it runs rich on the piolet circuit may change when it gets hotter out won't know until weather temp goes up but I have to kill the fuel flow to shut her down at 41 degrees. I found if it still runs rich in the hotter 70s perfect for expansion upgrade but it's a cloned carby. She runs lovely I can red line not sure if this is correct but my GPS indicates 31.83 mph while dash indicates about 50 redlining.
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 21, 2016 12:39:00 GMT -5
Vintagepgogod,
Welcome to the site!
I rode a Chinese 150 GY6 scooter for 7 years, and probably learned more about them than I ever wanted to... LOL! The exhaust systems on most of the 150's use a muffler very similar to this one. (It's interesting it's listed as for a 2-stroke) but I'm sure it's very similar to the factory 4-stroke generic muffs like you already don't like... Not bad for the money though!
While these mufflers are not known for long life, they are not all that bad where breathing is concerned. The REAL problem is the HEADPIPE which is usually SMALLER than the exhaust-port. That small pipe-diameter chokes the breathing right at the exhaust-port, where it aggravates the breathing problem the most.
When my stock muffler went south, I made a full-diameter header from an old John Deere generator header (much easier and better to simply BUY a full-diameter pipe off eBay...). Then I fitted up an old 2-stroke "chamber" muffler which I had on hand.
4-strokes run GREAT with a chamber pipe. However, any decent free-breathing muffler is good. If I was doing it again, I'd just buy a matching header and muffler as a unit.
The muffler you are interested in would probably run very well WITH a larger-diameter header. The header is the main obstruction with these. The engines DO require at least a small amount of back-pressure. A straight-pipe seldom runs as well as a decent muffler.
With my setup, I found the engine ran cooler, and was easier to adjust and tune over all rpm ranges. I did have to richen the main carb jet... But I attribute that mostly to the larger header.
My advice: If possible, save your pennies and get a matched large header and muffler as a unit. They are a little expensive, but usually polished stainless and well made.
Hope this may help,
Leo in Texas
PS: If your budget is very tight, I'd go with the "universal" muffler (or auto glass-pack "Cherry-Bomb" type, or large-displacement industrial engine muffler) BUT buy, or make, a 1" header for it. You can find 1 1/8" exhaust flex-pipe at RV stores for generators to connect from header to muffler. You'll probably have to do a little back-yard engineering to make a mount (or mod your existing mount) but it's worth the effort.
Sounds easier to gut and rebuild my old muffler have my own name stamped on new sheet front plating, I have a stock sealed muffler but like I said to multiple people (I do not any police attention.)
That technigas is a upgrade between 90s-2k new PGO USES TECHNIGAS stock but my 87 stock is based off honda sprees old muffler style but longer.
My reeds im tearing out after i plate and tab it, i believe my piolet is not the issue, but i need to do preformance drive train through mallosi, the reeds have 18 years use on them of 28 years. A good set of carbon reeds should re calibrate my splooge issue vs shrinking piolet jet i have a type 35 keihin clone carb. The piolet shouldnt be any bigger then 36 based of the genuine stock carb for now i need to get her moved away and plated so i can be by it at least.
No one ever said splooge kills a scooter which is why 2 stroke is the easiest to clean via induction of seafoam every so few months. |
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Post by vintagepgogod123 on Mar 18, 2016 14:04:10 GMT -5
How can I use gearing to get more top speed on hills currently pulling at 20mph uphill.
I am mainly interested in overhauling my rollers and possibly a new clutch.
My scoots pretty much mint for being 28 years old years old but a performance clutch in any vehicle/scoot will give you better performance.
My exhaust is about to be upgraded to tecnigas stage one stock muffler seeing my old muffler looks like a bumb took a fat load on it. The body work excluding the wheel well will be bypassed and I'll just pull my front panel and strengthen the edging of the paneling.
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if i am correct the problem with the 87 model is when you first build by pgo they kind of cloned honda (jug match is a 
Nb50 which means its cloned or based off.)
% that there f'd off from their first high speed drive in 28 years as they probably only been changed 1 time if the reeds are not good then my timing is off why i say reed is because of tick when fully warmed up and splooge at low idle cold which means it has to be partially open on one of the sides.
