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Post by pistonguy on Aug 14, 2015 19:31:37 GMT -5
The amount removed to "clean" the head up will result in negligible comp, ratio increase
Pistonguy should have that formula on hand.
Emory cloth comes in different grit's like sand paper
Lots to choose from, Medium, Fine, ultra Fine, 280-400 grit or finer.
You could finish it to a polish if ya wanted to.
You could swirl away. surface grinders used to surface heads work in that motion. Swirl to 12:5-1
its not as hack as one may think in This Application . with a fine grit finish would look racey.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 14, 2015 18:06:40 GMT -5
You really should investigate that heating issue flordia... Like rcq92130 said the plastics shouldn't have melted. I have a similar setup from the same company (Scorpion) and I have rode for 16 hours straight in one day with only 10 minute stops every 3-4 hours and none ofmy plastic melted man and it was a very hot day... So considering a similar setup from the same company can run with less heat (and btw it takes a LOT of heat to melt those plastics, they are made for heat) that goes to prove your setup is running too hot. When i got the scoot used, the piston was "hot seizing" due to the valves needing an adjustment. I was having to wait 30min till the engine cooled off so I could ride it. My point is: im not able to speak to my scooters previous owner so I can find out what issues the bike was found out to have in relationship with the melted engine shroud in the manifolds area. Nowhere else on the shroud is it melted or warped. I believe the exhasut was loose for a long time causing the melting. *** my Scorpion bbk is running fantastic! I think you misread my post. I have a tachometer and the sparkplug looks good. I am wrapping my exhaust in an effort to move the hot air from reaching my air filter, and also because I think it looks good. My shrouds have NOT melted in any way since installing Scorpions 100cc bbk. "Hot Seize" Piston interesting Esplain to piston guy what a "hot seize" is. have a pic of that Piston? |
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 14, 2015 18:01:07 GMT -5
Well ya can look at it sorta my way
I figure this whole deal, fake big valve, fake perf exh, is all just Semi Finished Product.
I almost done mind ill have enough time in my head that I could have bought 10-20 of them. but I know it will be correct.
Gotta Hard Kitchen Counter top??
Get a thick piece of glass on that counter and throw down some emory cloth and swirl that puppy all around and remove the scratches, Heck y'ull be bumping the compression at no charge!! Whallla! Lain High Perf Head.
Thats a Forty Dollar bill right there
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 14, 2015 6:01:43 GMT -5
I don't think you will have a problem with the Cylinder head gasket seal.
Can you hang a Finger Nail Good and Tight in any scratches?
And is it supposed to have Oversize Valves?
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 13, 2015 19:58:01 GMT -5
I can't see the cylinder upside down to see how thick the Iron Sleeve is but if its just the Flange Im seeing a the top it's 1/4 inch thick or so.
A heavy thick wall sleeve will make the Cylinder weigh more. theres nothing else there
flip the cylinder upside down and post a pic for us.
Take a magnet to what you think is or isn't Aluminum, looks like typical Alum. Cylinder with Cast Iron Sleeve.
That Head looks ruff,
But what do we really expect for $34 bucks. It will work and run all for $34
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 13, 2015 17:04:11 GMT -5
cool, lets see pics pics pics.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 12, 2015 20:46:21 GMT -5
Yeah Pistonguy, that WAS on my to do list (throw the ABS canister) I am a really cheap s.o.b. but, I do enjoy learning the inner workings of stuff. The master cylinder says to use either DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid--- what is the difference what is recommended? Diff is operating temp. Either #3 or #4 is fine. They all absorb moisture, nature of the beast. oh snit get in old, #4 is higher temp. I should remember I raced Karts in the 80's and Boiled Lots of Brake Fluid, I think #5 A parts guy with half a brain should be able to find a matching Banjo bolt and two copper washers. |
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 12, 2015 19:20:49 GMT -5
Yes there is a piston and seals in there
.
for $25 bucks I wouldn't get my hands dirty.
Brake Fluid Absorbs Water, its supposed to be changed every couple years or as manual recommends.
Every bike I've had has had a change as part of maintenance.
Its even worse using High Temperature Brake Fluids.
And the Genuine Fake ABS, take that snit off and put on a regular Banjo Bolt in there, throw that fake thing as far as you can.
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 12, 2015 9:24:15 GMT -5
If you do not have an air filter installed you wont create enough vacuum to open fuel petcock. If it starts by spraying starting fluid or carb cleaner like piston guy says, this is most certainly your problem. This is right on and I neglected to mention The lil bugger needs some restriction on the intake side (air Filter) |
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 12, 2015 7:16:15 GMT -5
I have the same moped and engine I bought a new carb a new spark plug and a new big bore kit because that's all u can get but it won't start. It did b on the old cylinder and piston only with kicking it though and it's the same thing now it'll start by kicking it but it won't by electris starting it. Need help asap If ya got Compression and Spark spray it with Starting Fluid ( Ether) or some use Carb Cleaner like Gumout. Should start ruth up. if it does start on Ether that just told you she's not getting fuel. good luck |
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 12, 2015 7:11:57 GMT -5
K
If ya got spark and comp, should go
Don't be afraid to use Starting Fluid. (Ether).
Some use Carb cleaner like gum out,
It will pop on this if ya got spark and comp.
if so It juts told you she's not getting fuel
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 12, 2015 6:32:48 GMT -5
Transplanted last year here to Dallas, Texas, so my wife could be a Texas gal. We got a used 2002 gold Honda Reflex that has been just a gem to ride! I've booked over 25k on the lil darlin' and it just keeps cookin! Howdy there. Transplanted from were? I spent 20 some years over in Keller, North Side Fort Worth by the Speedway. Now that your in Texas there is nowhere else to go. |
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 11, 2015 20:16:22 GMT -5
www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/77-piston-guys-61mm-big-valve-cylinder-head-spy-photos/This covers most the basics of the Bowls, Ports, Valve Seats, Valve Seat Contact, using machinist dye to check valves seat to face contact area and lapping. lapping  Allot of junk fake cylinder heads out there and ya just don't know what ya got unless ya can measure it yourself. As nice as my ports (especially intake, the one that matters) look I don't consider I did Any Porting. A Real Valve Job, Bowl Work, Match Manifolds, Scratch around the ports to make ya feel good, and that it
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 11, 2015 20:07:26 GMT -5
pistonguy, lol.. yes that does suck but you are wrong about his head. He has upgraded bored head and he even bored out the intake manifold, upgraded valves and springs. Basically we were about even until I developed the intake leak, but his scooter for some reason was always a bit faster from mine in stock form. He is also running an A12 cam and I am running an A9. I am just trying to see where I can gain some extra power and since I value your opinion I ask. When you said my head was no good, what kind of symptoms were you expecting me to get? Were you thinking it would seize on me or would it deliver very little power? I have about 1k miles on this head now. thank you K, cool, I'll try to help ya smoke your buddy. I may poke fun or make extreme example just bear with me. I have had suspicions on the various cylinder head volumes (cc's) for some time. If some are not sure wh we have a 61mm head for the 61mm bb cylinder is for a few reasons. First going up in Bore Size (volume) alone will increase your compression ratio, hmm ok. So by increasing the Diameter of the Combustion chamber by this same amount will Maintain my Stock OE Compression Ratio, (we'll work with (9:2-1). The Mfgr's try to idiot proof this stuff, what good is a 14:2-1 head that requires Methanal to run? can't sell many of those. Second and few know this is that if we used the stock diameter cylinder head on the BB cylinder, now the Flat Part of the Cylinder Head is now in the Bore, not good for flame travel, detonation on theses outer edges and in some cases the piston can hit this part of the head hanging inside the cylinder bore. I Highly suspect most of this junk the MFR chucked them up and increased the Combustion Diameter to the Bore Size and has NO Idea were our Compression Ratio is now, I'd Bet LOW. So If I started with 9:2-1 and now installed the Fake High Perf. Head and now I'm at 8:5-1, OHhh snit. They don't advertise the Cylinder head volume cuz they don't know, and if they did could sell Allot More by Marketing a 61mm 10:5-1 Head,, duhhh. I;m going to do both Port Volume and Combustion Chamber Volumes (in cc's) on both my Stock oe and my 61mm head, I want to see for sure exactly what our stock oe compression ratio and port volumes and my 61mm set-up. are Then I have some base numbers to go on. I stand corrected on your buddy's head, I see on the other you state he has a Taida 61mm head. Is he using Stock Gearing? Well form why I've seen of there product its pretty darn good and best Chance of having at least matching compression ratio of his stocker. Then that may make sense your head made you lose power (lowered compression ratio) and his made power (good quality head/maintained compression ratio). we can spend a life time on cylinder heads and valve train. fun tho. ya know I have issues with what was done to the head, I really think went backwards. We always need to be thinking on keeping velocities up, I've made comments of "Flushing a toilet into a Straw" so not knowing the cc's of the ports and hogging them out is going to make you go slower. Matchin the Intake and Exhaust Manifolds is beneficial but not as much as one may think and this is Not porting. There is only a Little work to be done in the Bowls and the rest just looks pretty and thats All. Ive addressed most of the Valve job etc questions on the other site and will post a link. Lapping Valves, Wow, I've seen that stuff in museums, Barbaric way to Destroy a valve Job. Sorry arse snit a manuals is written today with no updates from 80 years ago. then this is passed down as Monkey see Monkey do as the thing to do. Wrong. Sum this up I Believe that if you Bolted on a Taida 61mm Head, (check/match you manifolds), Leave the rest Alone and will get you back on the right track. |
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Post by pistonguy on Aug 11, 2015 9:23:06 GMT -5
Whoever told you about CDI's is very wrong. I've NEVER had a CDI just simply stop working, it is quite the opposite. Every time I've had a CDI die or fry it would slowly pickup symptoms until one day it would either stall out mid travel and leave me pushing it home or it would die after starting, or it would stall out and would not start until it cooled down to a "cold" engine temp again.. CDI's are just tiny boxes of capacitors. Bruh, I Ghosted One. One minute she fire next she don't. The The The thats all folks. I think I still got it round somewhere. |
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