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Post by steve on Nov 29, 2015 7:00:55 GMT -5
I bought different colors of 16g wire, and manually ran all the wire from the stator, to the regulator, CDI, etc. I just bought a bunch of bullet connectors, and replaced everything. I put all the connections where I could easily get to them. I don't trust the wire, or connections in those harnesses. Especially if you run them in weather.
Also, is your battery grounded good to the engine? I have too often seen the ground from the negative to the engine go bad, which leaves the only ground to the engine the little green wire on the stator, and it burns up.
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Post by steve on Nov 28, 2015 7:00:42 GMT -5
Are Gates belts made of Aramid?
I've had several, and they are not much different than the crappy ones that come on the scooter. I ordered a Kevlar one from Scrappy's, and the quality difference was remarkable. There is no comparison between the Gates, and the Kevlar one. Performance was very noticeably better, also
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Post by steve on Nov 27, 2015 6:59:29 GMT -5
Alright, I'm pretty sure I figured it out. I bought a new feeler gauge, and compared the .005 on both of them. The one I was using was machined wrong, or is mis labeled. Anyways, the gap was set WAY to large on both scooters.
On top of the problem I mentioned, it had become very, very difficult to start. After setting the valves correctly, it fires right up immediately, no problem. And it seems to be running great.
All signs point to it being a valve problem. I will update later, but I think it was a faulty feeler guage. The one that I was using that was labeled .005 was close to .010-.011.
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Post by steve on Nov 26, 2015 8:54:49 GMT -5
Gates belts are now made in China, and the quality is not that great. If you want a really good belt, go to Scrappydogscooters.com, who commented in this thread, and get a kevlar(aramid) belt. The aramid belts from Scrappy's is 100X the quality of any Gates you can get these days. Trust me on this.
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Post by steve on Nov 26, 2015 7:32:14 GMT -5
I was thinking the valves.
I can't make a video, because I don't know when it's going to do it, and it happens when I'm going down the road.
I will try to describe the noise: You remember when people used to put a card on the wheels on their bicycles to rub against the spokes of the wheel? Imagine putting a really thick credit card to rub against the spokes on a bicycle wheel, then make it louder. That is what it sounds like. It happens under load. Do ya'll think it's a valve clearance issue?
I also noticed a lot of smoke coming out of the valve cover vent when I crank it after that happened. Anybody have a solution? Should I set the valve lash larger, or smaller than .004?
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Post by steve on Nov 26, 2015 6:10:43 GMT -5
What relay would kill the engine, though. It's really loud, and gets louder and louder.
Is there anything with the valves that would make them start tapping really loudly, and kill the engine? I'm starting to think it's the valves.
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Post by steve on Nov 25, 2015 16:17:36 GMT -5
So this has happened to me on both of my scooters. I swap the carb on them when I switch back and forth, but that's it.
It happens every now and then. Going up hills, or on long periods of WOT. I will try to describe as best as possible. A noise that almost sounds like a loud electrical hum will start, kind of like a loud, really fast clicking sound. It will get louder and louder, then the scoot will just wind down and die. It will start back up after a few minutes and go.
I suppose it could be a really loud valve tap? Does anybody know what this is? Has it ever happened to any of you? I am stumped. I have a 52mm BBK it has happened on, and a 50mm BBK it is happening on.
Any help, I would greatly appreciate. Thank you,
Steve
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Post by steve on Oct 23, 2015 6:29:07 GMT -5
Yes, wiring them directly to the battery is the best choice. You should not be getting any flickering.
This should be easy to narrow down: If the ground wire, and the positive wire are wired directly to the battery, then I would make sure the nuts are nice and tight on the battery. The vibration from the engine running is rattling a wire connection some place. It is either at the relay, the nuts on the battery connection, or the connections at the ignition.
If the 12v source for the relay is not connected securely, then the voltage is flickering at the relay. The relay could be bad, also. Is it brand new?
Make sure ALL your connections are secure. The vibrations from the engine is rattling a wire connection, or the relay plunger. If ALL your wire connections are secure, then make damn sure the nuts on the battery are tight. If the wire and battery connections are tight, then re-do all the connections on the relay. If that doesn't work, replace the relay. It is one of those things, it has to be.
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Post by steve on Oct 23, 2015 6:19:33 GMT -5
Oh, if you are starting from scratch, just get some different colors of 16g wire, and some male and female blade connectors, and some bullet connectors. The blade connectors will fit most regulator connections. I use bullet connectors to connect at the stator. Post whatever questions you have, and I'll do my best to help you out.
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Post by steve on Oct 20, 2015 6:09:45 GMT -5
You can drive it hooked up like that, but it would probably just be easier to hook it up to the wire harnesses. The only thing that is not hooked up is the charging/lighting wiring to the regulator.
I completely removed my wire harness. I have each wire run separately. I used 16ga wire on everything, which is better quality. Plus, if something goes wrong, I know exactly where every wire is going, and I have all the connections in places that are easy to get to.
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Post by steve on Oct 19, 2015 18:35:50 GMT -5
Some get AC voltage, off of the regulated yellow wire, but most are 12vDC. If not, it is 12vAC. Set your meter to DC. It's 12v, just a matter of AC, or DC. Most likely DC. If you don't get a reading on DC, change it to AC. |
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Post by steve on Oct 19, 2015 18:33:49 GMT -5
Some get AC voltage, off of the regulated yellow wire, but most are 12vDC. If not, it is 12vAC.
Set your meter to DC. It's 12v, just a matter of AC, or DC. Most likely DC.
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Post by steve on Oct 19, 2015 18:31:55 GMT -5
Steve, how is start up. Smooth, laboring or kick backs? What cdi are you using? John John, to clarify, it will kick the starter clutch back out a couple of times, usually, when starting. That high torque starter is a must. I am running the blue CDI, with the pigtail on it, and LED light on it. If I change to stock CDI, it doesn't really have a kick back issue any longer, and will start on first push. It starts within 1 second, every time, though. Doesn't have to turn any length of time, as long as it doesn't kick the starter clutch back out. |
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Post by steve on Oct 19, 2015 18:20:08 GMT -5
Thanks, John.
I will order yours on Friday. That's a good price.
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Post by steve on Oct 19, 2015 18:19:00 GMT -5
You have to have the pickup coil wired up.
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