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Post by steve on Oct 18, 2015 9:23:41 GMT -5
I just put a 52mm BBK, and new crank in. Was running great. I got a performance variator on the cheap off of ebay a while ago, when I put in a 50mm BBK. Was running 7g weights, but upped them to 8g with the 52mm cylinder.
Anyways, the other morning, it sheared the rails right off of that variator. Any recommendations on a variator that can handle all this power, without having to spend $150?
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Post by steve on Oct 18, 2015 9:13:43 GMT -5
As an update, this thing just sheared the variator rails.
I got a "performance" variator on the cheap, and put 8g weights in it. Sheared the rails that the face slides on. I thought that the new crankshaft's bearings had went when it first happened.
Any recommendations on a variator that can handle this thing, without having to spend $150 on a Dr. Pulley?
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Post by steve on Oct 18, 2015 9:10:14 GMT -5
Yeah, I would definitely just change the crankshaft on that old engine. I just did it.
Put the crank in the freezer, and then heat the case with a torch, and the crank will go right in. Don't force it! Go with the cold to shrink the crank, and the heat to expand the case.
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Post by steve on Oct 18, 2015 9:02:10 GMT -5
mine will charge at about 14.5, but 14 is perfectly fine. Absolutely nothing wrong with that.
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Post by steve on Oct 16, 2015 5:26:07 GMT -5
There should be a woodruff key on the shaft that the flywheel goes on. There is a notch in the flywheel that fits over this woodruff key. You may have either 1) just put the flywheel back on without lining it up, or 2) Knocked the woodruff key out of the shaft when removing the flywheel. You can order the woodruff keys on Scrappydog's, or ebay.
You are going to do 2 things, both very bad, by continuing to run it as is. The flywheel is off balance, and is going to ruin the crankshaft bearings. And, you are going to burn your engine up without the fan.
If you are going to run it without a fan, you are better off removing the plastic engine shroud(the black plastic that covers the engine) altogether. If it is cool outside, it will cool it while you are moving. If you idle it for any amount of time, or are not moving above 15 mph, you can burn it up very quickly. I would turn the engine off if you have to idle it for more than 15 seconds. You need to get a new fan, and engine shroud.
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Post by steve on Oct 11, 2015 15:51:19 GMT -5
Thanks. I am going to upgrade the carb with a 24mm first. Then, I am going to get a really nice head. I broke the BBK in pretty well. I let it idle at different RPM for about 15 min, then take it up and down hills for a little while. I'm going to change the oil tomorrow.
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Post by steve on Oct 11, 2015 9:31:29 GMT -5
No matching issues, no. Just connect the 3 yellow wires from the stator to the 3 yellow wires on the regulator, in no particular order. If you have an 11 pole stator, it should charge at about 14.5v at 3000 RPM.
The broken wire on your stator has ruined the charging portion of it. It has a separate coil for the spark, so that is why your scoot is still running.
Helpful Hint: Put the fan on the flywheel before installing it, and make sure the bolts holding the fan on do not stick out more than a mm on the inside of the flywheel, or it will chew up the stator. Also, make sure nothing metal gets stuck inside the flywheel, as it is a magnet. I have seen both of those issues chew up stators.
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Dyna beads
by: steve - Oct 11, 2015 9:26:48 GMT -5
Post by steve on Oct 11, 2015 9:26:48 GMT -5
Yeah, you shouldn't have put red lock tite on that nut. The rear wheel nut is damn near impossible to get off without lock tite. My impact wrench has 350 lbs of torque at psi, and would not get that nut off. I had to buy an impact wrench with 750 lbs of torque to get it off. You will never get that thing off without an air compressor, and a really heavy duty impact wrench.
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Post by steve on Oct 11, 2015 9:16:18 GMT -5
Ever ran a 50mm kit w/ 24mm (150cc) carb. I am curious why you would step up cc's and not try a 24mm carb. Sounds cool,but I'm willing to bet it will be stubborn to start in the cold... w/ out kicking. Good luck, I like 50 BBK bikes. Update lrt and let us know if you mean gps on those speeds. I am going to upgrade the carb in a couple of weeks, when I get some more cash flow. One step at a time. Right now, I am running the 20mm carb. I have a 40 idle jet, and a main. It starts right up. I just have to touch the starter. I do have one of those high torque starters from Scrappydog's.
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Post by steve on Oct 11, 2015 8:37:32 GMT -5
I checked speed up that monster hill with GPS. My speedo is off more than I thought. It is going 43-44 mph at the top of that hill, which is still mind boggling.
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Post by steve on Oct 11, 2015 8:33:43 GMT -5
It starts right up, but there is a kick back issue. I am using one of those blue CDI's, with the pigtail on it, and the little LED light on them. A regular starter was just barely able to turn it over fast enough when I had the 50mm on. A regular starter will not even turn it over with the 52mm bore. I bought one of those high-torque starters from Scrappy's. They cost $ , but they are well worth it. I am going to buy 2 more for spares. John, you ought to look in to stocking those starters. They are made by Taida. They are way, way more powerful than stock starters, and turn this thing over quicker than this thing turned over when it had the stock starter and 39mm bore.
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Post by steve on Oct 11, 2015 8:23:06 GMT -5
The broken wire on your stator is the problem, yes.
You need to order a new stator, and install it.
As far as you changing the connectors: As long as you have the 3 yellow wires from the stator connected to the 3 yellow wires on the regulator, then you are good to go.
Replace the stator, and ride safely.
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Post by steve on Oct 10, 2015 11:56:22 GMT -5
So, I have a Jonway Valero 50cc. I had been running it with the 50mm BBK, because It is my sole transportation, and there are some BIG hills along the routes I take. The biggest hill would take my stock 50cc down to about 20-22 mph, to give you some perspective. With the 50cc BBK, it would hold 35 mph all the way up the hill, which is not bad. Anyways, I decided to really do it up. I bought the Hoca 52mm cylinder and piston. I bought a new crankshaft from Scrappy's, not a stroker, but the regular one. The bearings on their cranks are great, and can easily handle the extra power from BBK's. I bought a nice big valve head from Scooters-to-go. They sell high quality stuff for a good price. I also bought an A9 cam from them. This was a complete engine rebuild, and took me a little while. But, all I can say is "wow"! The performance I am now getting is mind boggling. I am using a 20mm carb, with main jet, and 40 idle jet. This thing hauls butt. It will hold 48 mph up that monster hill, and acceleration is insane. I am very pleased. Great way to make a 50cc scoot into a monster. I am going to change the gears, and I am certain I will be able to get over 60mph.
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Post by steve on Oct 10, 2015 11:29:51 GMT -5
True, John. I was assuming he had gotten a new battery.
My apologies. You should definitely make sure the battery is not the issue. Try a battery you know is good, then check the wires.
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Post by steve on Oct 10, 2015 9:16:44 GMT -5
There is an issue a lot of people face when changing to 11 pole stators:
The 11 pole stators have 3 power output wires that must go to the regulator: most have all three as yellow wires, some have yellow, pink, and white as the 3 output wires. They also have a green wire, which is ground, then the red and black wire that goes to the CDI, and the red and white wire from the pickup coil.
Here is the issue: most scoots only have TWO power wires in the harness that go to the regulator, and may or may not have a ground wire. The 6 wire regulator has 3 yellow wires coming out of it. You need to make sure that all 3 power wires from the stator are hooked up to the 3 yellow wires on the regulator. I cut the wire harnesses off of both the stator, and the regulator, and hooked everything up with bullet connectors. The green wire from the stator has to be hooked up to the green wire on the regulator. If you make sure everything is hooked up like that, then make sure the red wire from the regulator is going to the positive terminal on your battery, you will get at least 14v charging your battery. I recommend cutting off the wire harness, and running new wires, as I described.
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