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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 29, 2015 23:02:28 GMT -5
Wow.... 1,000km already. You are putting the kilometers on quickly. I've owed mine now for 5 months and just hit 1015km.
Have you been keeping up with the oil changes? Some and the manual saw we can do oil changes every 1,000 km at this point. But I plan on doing it at 500km intervals just to be save. 750ml of oil is very cheap.
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 28, 2015 17:23:30 GMT -5
Good price. Worth trying. I just ordered one, and will update once arrived.
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 28, 2015 10:25:41 GMT -5
We don't have a tempature gauge. There are after-market gauges available for purchase.
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 26, 2015 20:44:39 GMT -5
.003inch/.005inch is for a 150cc. .003"/.003" is a 50cc
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Oil leaking
by: JoeyBee - Apr 26, 2015 19:32:08 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JoeyBee on Apr 26, 2015 19:32:08 GMT -5
Yeah.... Oil leak for sure. I see a complete engine tear down in someone's future.
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 20, 2015 22:47:12 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum brother
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 19, 2015 20:31:51 GMT -5
Is the fuel tank mounted high in the back or in the floorboard area? And what kind of fuel control device do you have. Manual shutoff valve or vacuum petcock?
The floats in your carb may need adjusting.
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 19, 2015 20:15:20 GMT -5
wingsltd Did you figure out the cluster issue? If not I can send photos of mine
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 19, 2015 17:48:25 GMT -5
Welcome to the forum! I agree with the last poster. He was right on point. I would also suggest adjusting your carburetor. The cutting out at idle may indicate you are running lean, too much air in your air:fuel ratio. Plus depending on your location the shift in tempatures demands minor adjustments. Check out Alley's tuning guide in the tech library. The library has a lot of very good information. YouTube also has a lot of very good information. itistheride.boards.net/board/34/fuel-air-carb-all-sizes |
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 12, 2015 12:02:16 GMT -5
Did changing the fluid fix the problem?
I recently changed the fluid for my front brake. The reservoir screws were complete garbage and striped during my attempted removal after being inserted by a trained weight lifting gorilla for low wages. I had to use a screw extractor and replace both. Afterwards the brakes are very firm. I also blame cheap Chinese brake fluid / "water".
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 12, 2015 7:08:00 GMT -5
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 10, 2015 8:25:19 GMT -5
Well the back is starting to fall apart from the heavy headwinds..going to have to superglue it back together. The only other worry I have now is that I made a kind of bad investment in the cheap scooter since I couldn't afford anything else. Do the engines really rattle themselves to death at 2k Miles or 2k KM? If so..that means in my car I would have spent $268 in gas..which is nothing compared to the $1300 I spent financing the scooter..and the muffler is rattling off too..lol.. I was wondering if there's ways to get a LOT more life out of it, or if there's things we can replace so it actually lasts long enough to pay for itself. I Drive 7.7 miles to work 1 way..so that's a minimum of 14 miles a day..which equals to about 66 days before dead engine..though I've been driving it a lot more than that (409km today on the odo) and it's just got me kind of in a funk if it's really going to finish falling apart around 3628KM Regular oil changes and avoiding full throttle are two very simple ways to ensure she lasts. Adjusting the valve clearance is another easy way to keep her purring. The process is a little intimidating at first, but very simple once you understand it. I have never heard of the 2km engine life. I am at 1k and have not had any problems. But I have a 4 mile drive to work with a top speed of 45. The mufflers are known to be of very poor quality. Check the muffler bolts to ensure they are tight. After-market ones go for about $100. |
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 8, 2015 17:26:59 GMT -5
That leak you are having is coming from the valve cover vent. I had the same issue, and one of the reason why I removed the emission devices. One way to fix that is to remove that tube from the airbox zip tie to the bottom frame, and have it vent to the atmosphere. It's designed so any oily mist from the valve cover will be vented into the airbox, then eventually sucked into the carburetor to be burned. In theory it should be good and reduce emissions, but it's poorly designed and only will gunk up the engine with carbon and burned oil residue.    |
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 8, 2015 12:18:23 GMT -5
Changing the gear oil is easier. After draining, on the center stand fill until it starts to ooz out from the filling hole. Wait a couple minutes then reinsert screw.
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Post by JoeyBee on Apr 8, 2015 12:08:56 GMT -5
This is a good video on how to change the engine oil. Do not be alarmed when you see metal particles in the oil after the first few changes. You have to be careful to not over or under fill the oil. I use 700 milliliters.
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