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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 27, 2014 14:12:59 GMT -5
The 50cc and the 150 use different manifolds but other then that, they are pretty universal.
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 27, 2014 10:41:57 GMT -5
I believe that on that bike, the turn signal relay in on the frame, right side toward the back where the Voltage regulator and everything lives. As for the speedo, is the odometer working and the cable is good?
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 27, 2014 10:11:07 GMT -5
I have just over 7k on my 150. Under 2k on the 250..
Change the oil on the 150 every 500 miles and valve adjustments as needed. The 150 has always been garaged, the 250 has been, since I acquired it in November, before that it had seen a pretty hard life.
I don't putt around on them, I scrag 'em... I ride WOT, a lot but I so maintain them and probably more then most.
Mods on the 150 include 115mm variator and 12 gram rollers. Stock other then that. I've put new valve stems in, new rear tire, new gates belt about 1k ago (second one) and added a windscreen and battery tender. I replaced the exhaust (stock unit broke a weld) upgraded the mirrors and a new fuel pump. Upgraded trunk.
Mods on the 250, added a volt meter, Led running lights, LED dash lights... Engine is stock. rebuilt and re-jetted the carb, replaced the vacuum petcock, all new switches in the dash, replaced the stereo, changed the ignition, paint, two new stereos.... (UE Boom clamped to the grab bars and a new amp with the old speakers in the bike)... Upgraded mirrors, "fiber carbon" covered dash. The 250 gets killer gas milage.... better then the 150 (don't need to run it as hard)
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 27, 2014 9:40:03 GMT -5
Be careful, Scoot, your showing you're age... LOL
If it could be had for 500 bucks, I'd do it. I get lost in a paper sack, so the GPS would be awesome and handlebar mounted GPS just doesn't work too well for me. Don't want the phone calls, but I already have music (Audio books usually, believe it or not) in the helmet. AS it is now, I usually have to pull over to consult the GPS, I just don't like my eyes off the road when i ride.
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 27, 2014 9:25:58 GMT -5
I'm thinking you need to replace the intake manifold. If they leak you will have a huge vacuum leak and the bike won't idle. The "white smoke" is probably fuel vapor leaking out when you shut it down.
The intake manifold on these bikes is just made of rubber and the carb hangs off of it. Vibration and dry rot take their toll.
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 27, 2014 9:09:34 GMT -5
I've driven a lot of different bikes... Since I work on them, I get lots of opportunities. So far my favorite has been a 2006 (07) can't remember Aprilia Scarbeo 500. Very heavy but ohhhh damn... awesome power, very stable but not for the faint of heart. It weighs in at 600 lbs or so. Freeway, no problem, twisties... well, it's ok, not great, parking lots.... you'd better practice a bit. Open road.... Awesomeness.
Pieggio 500 Beverly... Nice bike, heavy, not as heavy as the scarbeo, but not as pretty either. Plastics on both the Aprilia and the Piaggio are top notch.. things actually fit, both are damn nice rides and very freeway capable. Even tho it's lighter then the Aprillia, the parking lot manners are worse. Both the Aprillia and Piaggio are not nimble scooters and handle more like Motorcycles.
Tank 250 touring... it's light, has a good ride, electrics and plastics are very questionable... Better be ready to re-jet the carb (mine had a 107 main jet, very, very lean)... The motor, is smooth and the suspension is good, freeway is pretty much not an option, at least not around here, unless you want to ride during rush hour and split lanes. Still very nimble, but you will scrape at shallow lean angles. Especially on right turns.
Znen Roar... Much more refined then the Tank, better electrics, better plastics... Not as nice a ride as the Tank and it's not as peppy, probably due to the larger rear wheel, doesn't handle as well as the tank either. It has a tendency to "turn in" if you get a little too aggressive in slow speed turns. It's a much better looking bike then the tank, fit and finish are better then the tank. They do have known speedo problems tho. This one too, I wouldn't take on the freeway. Again, rejet the carb... The one I worked on had a 109 main jet. It's way more refined then the Tank and you don't have the center stand scrape problems that the Tank has. If I had to choose between the Roar and the Tank, I'd choose the Roar.
I haven't had a Sym or Kymco in the shop so I can't comment on those...
If I end up buying another large scooter, I will probably seriously look at the Aprillia X-9 (500cc)... Looks like a great bike, quality is top notch, I just haven't test drove one yet.
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 27, 2014 8:26:23 GMT -5
Robocop was more "Billy Bad But" .... but the six Million Dollar man was more macho....
The six million dollar man had to face his fears and show courage to get the job done, Robo just went in and leveled everything...
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 26, 2014 20:28:28 GMT -5
I've been riding the heck out of it. This thing sips gas. For my riding style, I'm pulling ~65mpg.... Which is saying a lot... I was hard pressed to pull 45 mpg with the 150, because I rode it at WOT so much with the 150.
It needs a carb and intake manifold... The carb has a very leaky ACV. The intake manifold I will buy on friday, and change it the following weekend. The blue LED's I have in the dash, while they look cool, make it to where you can't see the needles in the dash, so I'll be changing those to white LED's.
I did tear into the carb and re-jet it, just to get it running half way right. The carb had a 107 main jet in it. It's running a 115 now and wow, what a difference. It actually gets out of it's own way. Idle is a little erratic from cold to warm but I think the intake manifold will fix that.
Broke the speedometer cable the first weekend, lost the flasher unit (actually broke the top of it) this weekend. And I need to replace the rear brake handle. somebody ground down the nub that hits the brake switch so, the brake light is always on unless I jiggle the brake handle just right.
And, it's far from done... a chinese scooter is never done!!!! LOL
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 23, 2014 1:31:01 GMT -5
howdy, um I don't really think that is how it is done. something about feeler gauges etc lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken Nope... on the CF250, you can adjust them by ear. You don't even pull the valve cover. The adjusters are external to the motor... it's awesome!!!!!! You can do it with feeler gauges as well, but there is no need. I wish more motorcycle and scooters were designed like that... It's really cool. Ray
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 23, 2014 1:25:34 GMT -5
So my little 250 hasn't had a good idle and just hasn't been performing well. I already know I'll be replacing the carb soon, as the ACV on it leaks vacuum so it's disconnected and the line is plugged for now. The ACV keeps them from poppin' when the throttle is closed.
When I do the carb, I'll also do the intake manifold.
So anyway, I figured, that since I'll have to ride it for a couple of months before I can spend more money on it, I decided I'd pull the carb and see what I could do to make the bike run as well as I could with what I had.
I started by pulling the float bowl and took a look at the main jet in the bike. It was a #107. This is way, way too small. A 107 is lean, even for a 150 and this is a 250. I took a look at my collection of junk and stuff, and found I had a #109 and a #115 jet, so it was off to the Helix forums to see if I could find what these guys were using as a base line.
From what I read, the Helix runs a bit lean from the factory as well with a #110 jet. Many of the Helix guys put in #115's on there stock bikes with good results so, I put the #115 in, set the a/f screw to 2 1/4 turns out (also per the Helix guys), pull the diaphragm and set the pin on notch down from the top (leaner) put it back together and fired her up.
Much much, can't believe how much better. The bike really came alive and the stupid flat spot off of idle is completely gone. The only thing is setting the idle speed is a bit ugly. This is probably because of the ACV and I wouldn't be surprised if the intake manifold was leaking a little.
What I finally did was let it warm up, set the idle speed. The only problem is when it's cold, it idles way too fast. So the strategy, until I can replace the carb and intake manifold is to let it warm up on the center stand for about 2 minutes before riding it. From there, it's butter.
Oh a tip for would be CF250 tuners.... the 250 uses the same jets as a 150 so, if your scooter shop/distributor doesn't have 250 parts, you can ask for jets for a 150.
I figured I'd post this as it's a good baseline for the other CF250 style engines that are in many scooters. If you change exhaust or intake, you will need to adjust your jetting accordingly.
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 22, 2014 11:16:53 GMT -5
sure it's not just a valve adjustment that is needed? Check out ManualsLook for the CN250... Same engine...
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 21, 2014 22:53:42 GMT -5
Yes, the Boom is water proof.... I haven't seen a blue tooth amp... although I would think they exist.
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 21, 2014 22:41:24 GMT -5
In Mother Russia, a scooter is a truck
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 21, 2014 21:04:30 GMT -5
I'd use a milk crate... you can get so much more in one then a truck....
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Post by urbanmadness on Jan 21, 2014 21:01:27 GMT -5
There's not much to go wrong with them. and if you send both, I'm sure one will work fine and I only need one. I'm gonna have to wait until payday tho... I had an unexpected bill come up... so... I'll pm ya round the 31st.
Let me know how that carb works out... and post a link... I might be interested... I hate where the adjustment screw is on the 250 carbs...
thanks...
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