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Post by rockynv on Jan 12, 2016 12:44:58 GMT -5
Fortunately, you can still find some used Aprilia 850 Manas in the states with the cvt. They were sold here until a few years ago. Currently the only one available here is a beater with over 10,000 miles on it for about the full price they were selling for when new. Its the naked, banged up and looks like they did not flush the coolant or take care of it as they should. |
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Post by rockynv on Jan 12, 2016 0:07:13 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Jan 11, 2016 13:23:45 GMT -5
The buises and swelling are almost gone from my 45 mph off last June. It takes time and if you are left with a few scars thats ok as they help you remember what not to do and why we wear our gear.
Friday I was late for work because someone riding a moped on a busy street in the dark and fog without a helmet or any safety gear (not even a light colored jacket) was riding in the dead zone of the breakdown lane and could not be seen by traffic at one intesection so he was T-Boned by a pickup and had to be life flighted out. The truck really just bumped him but for lack of gear he might not pull through.
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Post by rockynv on Jan 11, 2016 0:04:35 GMT -5
Nicely done however in Italy the Lambretta, Vespa, Piaggio and Aprilia were not fashion accessories but every day work horses. Most are capable of hauling a quarter of a ton compared to the competitions 230 to 330 lbs. The big Lambretta were used as the foundation for 1/2 and 1 ton trucks and eventually a 4 ton model capable of hauling more stone, marble, etc than a full sized American Pickup Truck.
The downfall of Lambretta in Itally in part was that they had a stationary front fender which made them difficult to maneuver in tight city traffic since it stuck out so far and riders were prone to misjudging clearance and would nick the bumpers of cars they were weaving through.
The King of the Sport Scooters today is the Aprilia SRV 850 ABS with Traction Control. The British tested out an early model without ABS and found that was the only thing really lacking on the bike and Aprilia has taken care of that. In the early tests the BMW showed how important the ABS and ATC were on the track as the novice rider unfamiliar with the SRV 850 tended to be more cautious powering out and braking into corners losing time while the BMW riders would just lay into it:
0 to 130 MPH loaded for touring with top and side cases:
The way it pulls from 80 to 120 and then keeps on going is quite insane for a scooter. 150+ MPH with Dr Pulley and better flowing exhaust is possible. I need one to get to work however they don't bring them into the USA.
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Post by rockynv on Jan 9, 2016 22:11:54 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Jan 9, 2016 10:58:45 GMT -5
You read on this and other boards of folks who went at it for a long time with an impact wrench and could not get the variator or clutch nut loose because of various reasons some even burning out the ones that run off battery power. This is not best practice and if a failure happens a few thousand miles later or more immediately most will just chalk it up to faulty engine parts, bad design, etc. Some instead of holding the variator will stuff items down the spark plug hole having the con rod and crank taking the full brunt of things. Yes you can many/some/a few times get the nuts off without damaging the crank and such but you won't always since you can also damage things and really won't know unless you pull things apart and do the forensics. Shop manuals tell you to use the proper tools and while some mechanics who have been trained otherwise will bend the rules and use impact wrenches on moving parts the only time you should really use an impact wrench on a moving part is with caution removing wheels from cars, trucks and trailers. Putting things on to moving parts with an impact wrench should be only to wheels using a torque limiter stick on the impact wrench however a set of those is relatively expensive and they can be inconsistent. I guess my search-fu is weak, I tried finding examples here of what you are saying, but I couldn't. I'll try searching other boards as well, maybe I'll get lucky. If you could point me to any example discussions, it would be appreciated. They don't realize what they have done so you won't get a hit searching on "I broke my variator using an impact wrench when I should have used the proper holding tool and hand wrench" yet you see the posts about somehow the end of my crank came off, my drive face got wobbly, the piece of garbage bike threw the rod, etc. You see the bikes on Craigs List for sale needing work and when you go see them the threaded end of the crank that holds the variator on is broken off and although you can see the scuffing and annealing from the impact wrench on the nut few will ever admit that they used one. There is a reason the OEM service manuals don't advise one to use an impact wrench when servicing a variator or clutch and always recommend using the holding tool and a hand wrench. You will see discussion by trade mechanics admitting that they took a chance because they got frustrated since some joker previously used an impact wrench on a bike and that they had to do the same to get the bike apart so they could repair the damage the other guy had done and then using all new fasteners reassembled it using a torque wrench to OEM specs. |
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Post by rockynv on Jan 9, 2016 1:44:17 GMT -5
You read on this and other boards of folks who went at it for a long time with an impact wrench and could not get the variator or clutch nut loose because of various reasons some even burning out the ones that run off battery power. This is not best practice and if a failure happens a few thousand miles later or more immediately most will just chalk it up to faulty engine parts, bad design, etc. Some instead of holding the variator will stuff items down the spark plug hole having the con rod and crank taking the full brunt of things.
Yes you can many/some/a few times get the nuts off without damaging the crank and such but you won't always since you can also damage things and really won't know unless you pull things apart and do the forensics. Shop manuals tell you to use the proper tools and while some mechanics who have been trained otherwise will bend the rules and use impact wrenches on moving parts the only time you should really use an impact wrench on a moving part is with caution removing wheels from cars, trucks and trailers. Putting things on to moving parts with an impact wrench should be only to wheels using a torque limiter stick on the impact wrench however a set of those is relatively expensive and they can be inconsistent.
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Post by rockynv on Jan 8, 2016 13:57:10 GMT -5
Not to argue rockynv, but I'm confused at your concerns. The crankshaft and rod handle the force of thousands of explosions per minute, each of which is much more powerful than any impact wrench. I would be interested in reading some examples of people who have messed up their variator or crankshaft with an impact wrench, it could prove enlightening. Yes the crank and rod handle explosions but under constant pressure lubrication or splash lubrication that is renewed with every splash of the dipper in the oil pan which on a 4 stroke with dipper splash lubrication is twice before then next ignition pulse. The better splash systems use a paddle wheel that provides a more constant flow of lubrication. When using an impact wrench you squeeze the oil out of the crank and rod bearings after the first few moments and then start scuffing things. You can mute it by holding the variator from vibrating and transfering the impacts to the crank however a novice is not usually going to do that and just let it wail. Its not going to be a 100% failure rate and could be all over the scale depending on whose pulling the trigger on the impact wrench and the characteristics of the impact wrench itself. On a GY6 having more torque than in impact wrench I am not so sure of that. We are only talking about engine developing around 8 hp and a relatively few pounds of torque while my main impact wrench on the other hand creates around 650 pounds of torque with even the bargain units developing over 100 lbs to remove lug nuts. Better safe than sorry and use the correct tool for the job following established best practice. |
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Post by rockynv on Jan 7, 2016 20:36:06 GMT -5
You can buy or make one of these: www.partsforscooters.com/202-19-Pit-Posse-Universal-Holder People do a lot of damage using the wrong tools so kudos for vetting out the right ones. The electric impact wrench is OK for removing if you ensure that the impacts do not get transferred to the crankshaft and connecting rod however to properly install a variator or clutch you really need to use a locking tool and an accurate torque wrench. Some say using the impact wrench causes no problems however they are also many times the same ones who end up replacing a variator every second or third belt change or have an unexplained vibration or report that somehow the end of the crankshaft just sheared off all by itself while I was riding. |
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Post by rockynv on Jan 7, 2016 10:47:40 GMT -5
If the charging system is always producing full output and the regulator keeps it running at full load by shunting to ground when you reduce the electrical load why when you are idling does the cycling of the cooling fan or switching on the high and low beams together (turning on the passing lights) put an extra load on the engine reducing its RPM's if the charging system is always fully loaded and always producing full output?
Why do bikes that have been converted to LED tend to get better fuel economy if the regulator kicks in and keeps the system fully loaded all the time regardless of the actual electrical load?
I am missing something here or my Aprilia/Piaggio has a totally different charging system compared to the Burgman, Honda, Yamaha, etc.
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Post by rockynv on Jan 7, 2016 10:24:22 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Jan 7, 2016 1:47:47 GMT -5
Additives are not a magic cure. What you need to do is tune your carb for the temp. Cold air means more oxygen, which means you need more fuel in the mix to compensate. There is a great tuning guide in the tips section here: itistheride.boards.net/thread/12/4ts-carb-tuningNot magic but do keep things more consistent. A carb, piston and valves getting dirty from the junk fuels we have today are going to start running lean and make cold weather issues worse. In Florida on the Lance 150 our Southern Winters did not require a Winter re-tune to maintain drive ability so we only need to keep the system clean and free flowing. I am now insulated from that since the fuel injection on the Sport City automatically compensates for temperature changes however on the 150 it was not an issue here. |
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Post by rockynv on Jan 6, 2016 11:51:41 GMT -5
Rockynv what part of so fl do you ride, ILive in ocala St Pete/Sarasota however I will ride the Aprilia to Wachulla or even St Augustine, Venice, Naples and may take a ride down to the Keys. The Aprilia Sport City is a different class of 250cc Scooter and crossover between a Scooter and a small Sport Bike for lack of a better description. The only limitation I have found is the 2.25 gallon fuel tank making it so you need to fill up more often (every 2 hours/150 miles) on long trips. It is a shame that Piaggio has restricted Aprilia to only producing a 50cc Motard Scooter and has even stopped them from producing their 50+ mph 50cc DiTec 2 Stroke scooters. The only large scooter from Aprilia now is an 850 and Piaggio is not allowing it into the US. |
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Post by rockynv on Jan 6, 2016 11:37:21 GMT -5
Figure one to two ounces per gallon and for regular use consider Lucas Fuel Treatment in the economy sized bottle. Seafoam and ever better Berryman are more monthly or remedial treatments.
Oil depends on what you are calling cold weather. Riding near the Canadian Border in the winter or 50 degree weather during a Deep South winter. At temps from 32 degrees (even 20 degrees) and above the regular oil specified for your scooter should be fine.
Heet is basically just alcohol and since Ethanol already has alcohol in it unless your riding in sub-zero weather then Heet is not needed especially if you are already adding an alcohol based fuel system cleaner such as Seafoam. You can cause severe starting problems by adding too much alcohol to your scooters fuel tank.
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Post by rockynv on Jan 6, 2016 2:10:55 GMT -5
On the Yamaha variant engines I would use the specified fluids in a decent synthetic especially if you ride in hot weather.
For coolant Engine Ice on our Sunny Florida Roads does make a difference in cooling system efficiency and its non-toxic. With Engine Ice in my Aprilia 250 I have found that the cooling fan gets the job done in a fraction of the time at traffic stops as it did with traditional coolant and now only runs for a few seconds at a time instead of taking a number of minutes to cool things back down.
Follow the directions and flush your cooling system with a mixture or distilled water and white vinegar followed by a thorough flush out with a few gallons of distilled water before adding the Engine Ice Coolant and then flush and refill every two years doing the brake flush at the same time and you should be Golden.
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