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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 10, 2015 15:40:26 GMT -5
rcq have you seen the springer mod for the front of those classics, a friend of mine ce came up with it.... it was on the old forum...really keeps the front in contact with the road. No, have not. Would be interested if you can provide directions. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 10, 2015 15:03:21 GMT -5
yeah thats what i thought.....at 67 mph and 7900rpm, the rod sheared from the piston, turned to a jack hammer and tried to cut the block in half, I am setting my new max speed at 62-3 mph, the brakes can barely get you to an expedite stop at those speeds, wanna go faster buy a bigger engine with bigger breaks, Ha. AGREE! I also have a pukey classic scooter with a pukey nonexistent front suspension. Heading downhill yesterday I was somewhere around 65mph and thought I either would bounce off the road and loose it, or not make the mild bend in the road and lost it. Even the slightest disturbance at those speeds and the scooter disengages from reality. On a flat road, no headwind, even with the BBK and all the other changes I'm not looking at much above 60 due to the massive windshield (I suppose). The scoot can handle that speed. Not anything higher! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 9, 2015 21:55:16 GMT -5
Hi Everyone I've got the following situation: Stator went bad This model used initially an 8 pole stator and flywheel rotor, but switched during production sometime to a 4 pole stator and flywheel rotor. My model is the early variety using an 8 pole. I can only find a replacement stator through the company and it will cost something like $110 + shipping (yikes) I have, however, found a 4 pole stator online for $31 shipped. Assuming it fits the same as the other stator and screws in the same (99% sure it does), will a 4 pole stator work in a flywheel that has 8 magnets? Second related question: if it will work, will it work the same as if it was a 4 magnet rotor, or how much loss of power would we be talking? Thanks for any insight into this issue. I have absolutely no idea at all who has been steering you to wherever it is you have been getting those 100% absurd prices. Here is a highly respected supplier to many here: www.ebay.com/sch/m.html?_odkw=&_ssn=gy6racingteam&hash=item2c965150a9&item=191500472489&pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_osacat=0&vxp=mtr&_from=R40&_trksid=p2046732.m570.l1313.TR10.TRC0.A0.H0.Xstator.TRS0&_nkw=stator&_sacat=0An even better supplier (because he actually tests parts he sells) is the member tvnacman (his name is John - www.nycscooterparts.com/). Electrical items are his specialty, and ghe can help you figure out what will work in your specific application |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 9, 2015 13:09:00 GMT -5
Ask GEH to write up a little tutorial on this - he just did the job a few months back if I remember correctly. Your chain would be getting oil from dipping into the sump and the oil therein, not from the top end oil system. As someone (maybe GEH) suggested, pull the valve cover and turn the engine over by hand. You should see some oil seeping out from the valve carrier. If not, either blocked poil passage or faulty oil pump or no oil in the engine. Does the oil flow up the engine rods? I do not see any other place besides the chain that the oil could come from. Page 22 of the gy6 service manual I got from this forum shows a diagram that kind of looks like it flows up the rods? But the rods are covered by the cam and nuts right? So how would that work? AlleyOop described this very well about a year ago. 1. For the piston rings, gudgeon pin, etc.: the GY6 is a "splash system". Oil is splashed up every time the crank rotates down into the pool of oil in the sump. There is no pressure feed system for this part of the motor. This is also how the chain gets oiled 2. For the top end (valve carrier and camshaft bearings): oil is PUMPED up to the valve carrier from an oil passage in the crankcase to an opening UNDERNEATH the jug. If you look at the jug turned upside down you will see an odd crescent shaped groove. One end of this sits right over the oil passage on the surface of the crankcase. The other end is at the top/left head bolt. Oil actually travels up ALONG SIDE of that head bolt thru the jug and into the head - then into a passage within the head to the valve carrier. That is the reason why we are urged to only use silicone sealant sparingly on the paper gasket between the crankcase & the jug - excess sealant can / will be squeezed as you torque down the head bolts and might get into the little passageway along the head bolt and into the head, clogging it. Then no oil will reach the top end. That's why so many people have suggested removing the valve cover and specifically looking for oil seeping out from the valve carrier as the engine is turned. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 9, 2015 11:38:49 GMT -5
Oil pump is on the side, not the top. Leaking valve can lead to a burned valve, and thus more of a leaky valve. In a severe case, maybe, a leaky exhaust valve could heat up the stem and cause the valve seal to fail, but that would just be evidenced by burning oil (smoke). If your oil pump gave up the ghost it's not related in any way to valves. Well it smoked after putting some oil on the valves. The chain still seems lubricated, just the top end does not seem lubricated after letting it sit. I have not checked right after running because I do not want to stress the threads and strip one. Do I have to drain the oil before working on the pump? I am checking the manual now, seems it cracks open right under the flywheel basically? The manual does not say anything about oil in this part though. Ask GEH to write up a little tutorial on this - he just did the job a few months back if I remember correctly. Your chain would be getting oil from dipping into the sump and the oil therein, not from the top end oil system. As someone (maybe GEH) suggested, pull the valve cover and turn the engine over by hand. You should see some oil seeping out from the valve carrier. If not, either blocked poil passage or faulty oil pump or no oil in the engine. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 9, 2015 9:55:33 GMT -5
Oil pump is on the side, not the top.
Leaking valve can lead to a burned valve, and thus more of a leaky valve. In a severe case, maybe, a leaky exhaust valve could heat up the stem and cause the valve seal to fail, but that would just be evidenced by burning oil (smoke). If your oil pump gave up the ghost it's not related in any way to valves.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 7, 2015 20:27:52 GMT -5
Sorry - couldn't resist.
Here is a tutorial on adjusting valves. If he has done so repeatedly I doubt he is doing wrong (like not tightening the locknut), but just in case.
Other than the locknut not being tightened (which of course would let the adjustment quickly vibrate out of adjustment), I can't think of a reason why the adjustment isn't lasting at least 1,000 miles. Makes me suspect that's not the problem. Maybe it's a loose ground connection, or loose connectors on the coil, or a failing plug wire, etc.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 7, 2015 20:22:06 GMT -5
New bf?
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 7, 2015 8:35:20 GMT -5
You are absolutely correct - the level of the fuel in the bowl and the height of the needle interact. However, they work in entirely different ways, and trying to tune a/f mixture by varying the fuel level is not generally easy or accurate. It sounds like you are quite familiar with carbs, and probably you already know this, but just in case ....
Fuel level - set by float height - should be at a fixed factory setting. Normally there is a spec and with a small ruler you bend the tab so the needle valve fully closes with the float a specific distance from the lip of the carb. Unfortunately, there are dozens of carbs stuck into scoot engines, and i have yet to find anyone who knows the correct spec for any of the carb designs. You have probably done a good job of getting it "close enough" - not flooding at idle, and not starving as you go around corners. Since the needle valve doesn't really close all at once, a real accurate fuel height isn't really possible (it varies even though you don't change anything). You are probably in the "OK" range.
The idle mixture screw and diaphragm height are the 2 intended ways of adjusting fuel mixture (fuel height in the bowl not so much, though it does have an impact). Fuel height really is an engineering driven spec - the main air passage in the carb creates a vacuum because of the engineering design of the venturi. That vacuum needs to be enough to lift fuel the height of the main valve (say, 5 mm) so it reaches the air stream. Once that is accomplished, the QUANTITY of fuel dumped into the air stream should be regulated by changing the size of the main jet hole - i.e., by how far down the tapered diaphragm needle sits into the jet, or by upsizing to a larger (or down to a smaller) main jet.
Of course, that all is layered on top of the fuel dumped into the air stream by the idle circuit (and the idle mixture screw), which on our little carbs has a big effect.
So you want to first get the idle screw set best, and then correct for high speed issues with either a lift of the diaphragm needle or a larger diameter main jet. Messing around with fuel height in the bowl (via the float tab) is a pretty crude adjustment. So, you might want to consider your tab bending work done and tune from her on just using the things designed for tuning. There is a great tuning tutorial on this site from Alleyoop walking thru the process. A quick search will get it for you.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 6, 2015 13:51:55 GMT -5
Yes got it opened!! Thank you all, it was still hooked up, to an aftermarket release hidden in the body panels.. I tried to post this answer as a quick reply but didn't see it on the board. As you can see a REAL newbie to forum boards. Does anyone know where I can buy the plastic clips that hold the panels on. Yes I broke them searching for the release cable. tjanddj Best glue for plastic screw-in mounts is "plastic welder" (at auto parts store). It's thick enough to put a blob on, giving a bit of extra strength. Upload a photo of your scoot. Iceberg's come in a bunch of formats, and w/o knowing what yours was it was hard to help. Here is a handy (free) web service that will out your photo up (just upload and copy the "message board" link to it, past it into a comment - presto ... photo appears): tinypic.com/ |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 6, 2015 13:47:00 GMT -5
The ground strap is connected to the valve cover on more than half of all models. Yes Jerry you are correct I have been seeing them on the valve cover more and more. My first two scooters were on the fan cover bolt at 12 o'clock. I like the starter hold down bolt. John Yep, John. Mine is on the starter hold down bolt - thought they ALL would be there, since that's the place of highest current. Odd a manufacturer would choose any other place (though a crankcase location, such as muffler mount (I have a secondary ground there) is probably just as good. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 6, 2015 12:16:34 GMT -5
PERFECT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 6, 2015 0:41:43 GMT -5
... it rains almost every day during peak riding season here, typically we can get 10-11 months of riding in before it gets to cold, but during the late summer when its amazing outside you might go out in the morning for one of the local ride and eat get together, and get a little rain on you the way back or, it can pour down... My Dad lives in Belen. Would you mind sending some of your rain down to him please?  He says they're below where they should be.... I agree that if your scooter is your primary transportation, then you don't have a choice, and you have to do whatever you can to keep it drivable even in pouring rain (and I'm sorry for you then 'cause that must be miserable driving). But those of us with cars, there's no reason to take that risk of reduced visibility and reduced traction. >'Kat And don't forget, Kitten - reduced visibility applies to all, not just the scoot rider. Those in cars can't see you very well either. I think GEH even had a Bambi stroll out and attack his scoot one day, mistaking it for a sea lion. Maybe it was dark, not rain, that caused his reduced visibility problem ... |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 5, 2015 17:46:04 GMT -5
But even if the elements didn't play havoc with the machine ... WHO IN THEIR RIGHT MIND WOULD INTENTIONALLY GO OUT ON A 2-WHEELER KNOWING IT'S GOING TO RAIN  ? That is just crazy. Sure - bring rain gear in case .... But there is nothing more miserable than riding at 50mph, water slogged, cold, fingers numb and slippery, knowing the cars can't see past their wipers, hitting puddles, and then there are the water covered potholes in Brazil that Ricardo had a video of ............. NO THANK YOU Even a bus would be better.  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 5, 2015 14:14:36 GMT -5
Ground wire is attached to the 'head stud"?
Is that the valve cover bolt, or the cylinder head bolt? Either way, not a very good ground point. The jug is separated from the crankcase by a paper gasket (no conduction there), and the valve cover is separated by a rubber o right (sort of), so no conduction there. Can't believe there is an electrical lug under a cylinder head nut ... maybe something on the side of the head? Ground path can only be thru the head bolts or down the valve chain.
Anyway - there isn't a ground directly on the crankcase anywhere?
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