|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 18, 2015 1:04:01 GMT -5
Hello All, it seems i have a lot of oil coming out of the valve cover nipple and i am finding a lot of oil being sprayed all over the place from the airbox area where the hose connected to the nipple goes into the airbox. I have found puddles of oil in the airbox as well and found some oil near the nipple on the valve cover. can you please help me resolve this issue? I was thinking about buying the Positive Crankcase Ventilator from scrappy dogs but have no clue how it works or to install. image of my issue, please note the airbox was disconnected when I toke the picture.  Positive Crankcase Ventilator Have, or are you removing your airbox?Is your scoot blowing oil? Have you run dry and don't know why? The reason may be that excessive pressure is being built up in your crankcase, which blows seals and/or pumps all your oil out the vent. This nifty device actually creates a vacuum within your engine by only allowing air out, and not back in. Made in the USA all steel construcion easily attaches to your vent line, which should be place above your engine as far as possible, and installed on the barbed nipple end. Threaded end is left open, or attached to a filter if you wish. This is a must if your running your scoot full throttle alot. New improved model. Cheapest performance fix anywhere at only $9.  thank you I bought one of Scrappy's PCV valves about a year ago ---- only to hear AllyOop (one of the moderators here) say it was a useless device that is silly to install. But if you are getting so much blowback it's actually blowing back into the filter box there is a significant problem. As GEH said, maybe you added way too much oil. If not, you may have a failed piston ring (which lets high pressure combustion gasses slip past the piston into the crankcase, pressurizing it and forcing oil out wherever it can). And drop in performance? Any smoke out the exhaust? Have you checked compression? |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 17, 2015 16:53:47 GMT -5
I had an issue last year where I kept blowing my high beam, turned out my R/R was bad. Replaced it and I haven't had any issues since. So replace my R/R what is that and where can I get one? All of these parts are so cheap this is not a big deal, but I would guess the cause of ONLY your high beam going out (not both) is 10 times higher to be a bulb than a switch, and 10 times higher a switch than the regulator. All are possible, but the odds are with the bulb ... THEN with the wiring or switch .... THEN with the RR. But an H4 is only $6 or $8, and a RR only about $12 ---- so no big deal either way. I'd recommend changing the bulb to an H4 anyway just so you are not looking into the night with the puny Chinese flashlight bulb these things come with. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 16, 2015 12:23:10 GMT -5
Just FYI - my Honda Goldwing has only 3 "sprags" (rollers).
|
|
|
|
Highbeam
by: rcq92130 - Jun 16, 2015 12:04:06 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 16, 2015 12:04:06 GMT -5
That bulb screws into a holder, which in turn goes into the headlight reflective bowl. The holder has 3 pegs that fit into 3 slots in the bowl so it will only go in with the proper orientation. The H4 bulb has the same 3 pegs and is the same diameter, so it fits right into the reflective bowl. The only difference is in the wiring. When you go to ORielly's or Autozone to get your H4, also get a standard plug for that bulb (the clerks there will help you get the correct one). Then snip off the existing plug in your scooter and connect the 3 wires so you now have the H4 plug connected. It just slides onto the blades of the H4 bulb like any normal headlight. And in increase in brightness at night will leave you wishing you had done this a long time ago. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 15, 2015 18:45:00 GMT -5
I have no need cut mine . I actually think its a good idea keeping it , considering many of us need to remove the gas cap to remove the underseat compartment , so we can work on our scoots. I always put the cap back on after removing the compartment , but on ocassion I have forgot to. It would be terrible to drop something somewhat big into the tank while your working on the scoot. Think about it , imagine I'm working on my scoot and I leave the gas cap off . I then reach into my pocket to grab my mind altering prescription drugs and NOOOOOOOOOOOO !!! right into the gas tank . now if the bracket was there my unlabeled prescription bottle would be safe an sound right at the top of the tank. But now I can't finish working on her because withdraw has begun to set in !! This whole catastrophe could have been diverted if I had just kept the darn bracket !! That's why I'll take this time to announce that Im selling a replacement bracket for all who read this and had chills run through their bodies. No need to spend years trying to reattach the old cut bracket with ductape and bubblegum ! Just buy my new gas tank hole bracket . this bracket is made of flint so as you install it there is no need to remove the gasoline !! Just use the metal striker " I mean " file , to file the bracket to size ! Just hold the new bracket into place and file it down to size. No need for any glues , tape or welding . this bracket has its own bracket !! And it sets between the cap and the tank !! So hurry while supplies last . so far I have 1 in my inventory so please hurry ! The first 500 callers will receive an empty unlabeled prescription bottle !! For only 19.99 plus shipping and handling. The bracket will be an extra 19.99 plus shipping and handling . so please hurry ! Lol , please dont take seriously . Your're not that much different from 92% of the contributing persons on this forum! I imagine you browse porn a good portion of the day and have a Netflix subscription too. Take my word, you've neither strayed from the pack or have been witnessed by those who matter with any hesitation in your step. Thx for coloring with-in the lines and all. My brain told me that an enthusiast would need there gas tank intact Sorry you were too slow to catch it, but that was satire (I know the guy). Better luck ....... |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 15, 2015 11:51:26 GMT -5
FUNNY !!!!!!!!!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 15, 2015 9:58:36 GMT -5
i checked mine with a lighter,,,no more tank,,no more problem,,,no more eyebrows either,,,,  ,,,,my vespa had a plastic insert,,,what a pain in the left nut,,,it was hard to get out but it was worth the effort PLASTIC ?? Wow. Removing that cross strap inside the filler is the single best mod I've done. Before, had to put gas in as slow as possible - trickling from the nozzle, and still it would at times splash. Now - stick the nozzle in, set it on "max", a few seconds later it shuts off. Then a few more squirts to top it off and outta there. Just don't cause a spark! Best: use needle nose pliers to twist it repeatedly till it pops off. ChinaSteel - not exactly the strongest stuff on the planet. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 14, 2015 20:03:51 GMT -5
Better the nut on your scooter than .............
|
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: rcq92130 - Jun 14, 2015 15:12:24 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 14, 2015 15:12:24 GMT -5
Can't remember which of the thousands of engines you have been playing with, but if THIS one is one that had significant blow-by .... and you didn't have an adequate crankcase vent ..... then it's possible that pressure built up high enough in the CC to gradually push the gasket out. One would think the torque of the head bolts would be enough, but remember the torque on these mouse fart engines is like 1 pinky ounce. This is that old blowby engine, my first engine, I' going back this time trying to fix things and get it so I don't have to open it up again. This engine does not have a crankcase vent, it has a valve cover vent, which I assume are different. BTW - I realize you are addicted to wrenching your scoot engines ... but why not "become a man" and put a real engine in that thing?   |
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: rcq92130 - Jun 14, 2015 15:10:43 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 14, 2015 15:10:43 GMT -5
Can't remember which of the thousands of engines you have been playing with, but if THIS one is one that had significant blow-by .... and you didn't have an adequate crankcase vent ..... then it's possible that pressure built up high enough in the CC to gradually push the gasket out. One would think the torque of the head bolts would be enough, but remember the torque on these mouse fart engines is like 1 pinky ounce. This is that old blowby engine, my first engine, I' going back this time trying to fix things and get it so I don't have to open it up again. This engine does not have a crankcase vent, it has a valve cover vent, which I assume are different. Same thing. The valve cover is open into the bowels of the crankcase via the chain galley. Just make sure the vent actually vents and isn't sealed off. |
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: rcq92130 - Jun 14, 2015 14:33:08 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 14, 2015 14:33:08 GMT -5
You cannot replace the paper gasket w/o removing the jug. BTW - you might remember I've been troubled by a leak at that same spot because of a paper gasket that slipped out. Torque was not low, so that's not the cause. Many advise AGAINST using any gasket sealant b/c of the risk of clogging the oil passage .... this past time I went w/o sealant and ended up with a slipped-out gasket. May not be cause and effect, but I'm suspicious and will NOT again try no sealant. If you do the same, just make sure you only "wet" the gasket (both sides), not leave enough sealant that once the assembly is torqued it will squeeze out into places where seamant is not wanted. Yeah I was thinking of putting sealant on it this time because last time I didn't and this happened. I'm thinking of just "wetting" the paper with the sealant except for around the oil passage, instead I will just wet the outtermost edges of the gasket around the oil passage, but not the edges where the oil travels, the edges close to the outside of the engine. Can't remember which of the thousands of engines you have been playing with, but if THIS one is one that had significant blow-by .... and you didn't have an adequate crankcase vent ..... then it's possible that pressure built up high enough in the CC to gradually push the gasket out. One would think the torque of the head bolts would be enough, but remember the torque on these mouse fart engines is like 1 pinky ounce. |
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: rcq92130 - Jun 14, 2015 13:01:43 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 14, 2015 13:01:43 GMT -5
What about if I do not remove the circlips? Then I could just put the new rings on the piston and not worry about the clips right? I have a small cylinder hone, used it once before. I think the rods may have been torqued too many times, they seem longer, like by a few hairs, than on my other 139qmb engines. How do I go about removing them? Can I use the rods out of another engine? I'm really trying to work with what I have without buying anything else. You cannot replace the paper gasket w/o removing the jug. BTW - you might remember I've been troubled by a leak at that same spot because of a paper gasket that slipped out. Torque was not low, so that's not the cause. Many advise AGAINST using any gasket sealant b/c of the risk of clogging the oil passage .... this past time I went w/o sealant and ended up with a slipped-out gasket. May not be cause and effect, but I'm suspicious and will NOT again try no sealant. If you do the same, just make sure you only "wet" the gasket (both sides), not leave enough sealant that once the assembly is torqued it will squeeze out into places where seamant is not wanted. |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 12, 2015 16:26:58 GMT -5
So I picked up an engine for a spare, got it for free so no biggie, when I turn the flywheel I get to the T and it gets stuck, and if I turn it the other way it gets stuck about a half turn of the flywheel. Seized piston maybe? Is that how a seized piston would act? If it is can I ditch the topend and put on another topend? Never seen a seized engine in person before so I can't say for sure if it is what I think it is till I order some topend pieces at least. Try Astroglide  |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 12, 2015 12:47:55 GMT -5
Ok, im heading out to the garage right now. Thx for the tips guys! Do NOT use a power tool ar anything else that would leave filings. Just take some needle nose pliers and start on one side - bending until it snaps, then the other side. The China steel is very, very soft and isn't a problem to egt to snap. Best mod you can make for your scooter. |
|
|
|
FFWWAOOOMP!
by: rcq92130 - Jun 12, 2015 10:09:30 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 12, 2015 10:09:30 GMT -5
Let's hope it's just the CVT belt of something easy like that ...
|
|
