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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 24, 2015 22:14:21 GMT -5
The PCV device is only a band-aid to cover the fact that all your oil loss is because you need new piston rings. That is where your blow by is coming from..that pressurizes your crankcase..causing oil to spew out the the nipple. I have seen and repaired this very issue on 6 or more customer scoots in the past few years. Glenn Holland is one of the most adorable towns on the planet! But I've always wondered what it's like when the calendar passes November .... |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 24, 2015 15:12:35 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 24, 2015 13:48:17 GMT -5
I checked and rechecked the oil. Then drained and refilled with exactly 750 ml. Issue still remains. Type / brand was penzoil 10-40 synthetic, then as the issues persisted I went back to penzoil 10-40 dino with no difference. Just FYI: My 150cc (well, 170cc now) GY6 will never take 750 ml as the manual says. Normally i can get in a bit over 1/2 liter before it reads full on the dipstick (not screwed in). |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 24, 2015 13:43:48 GMT -5
Question, how important is the bolt that covers the spring retraction mechanism after installation? I never put it back on, could that have been causing the oil leak? I am trying to put the bolt it on now, but it wont go all the way down and I do not want to force it too much. Perhaps I should cut it and make it shorter? Thank you Presume you are talking about the chain tensioner. Yep. If you look at the bolt it actually has a rubber seal under the head. The reason is oil will literally flood out if the bolt isn't sealing the hole. If you can't find the bolt (or it's damaged), a new chain tensioner is only about $10 and is a snap to install (once the cyl. head cover is off). Suggest you just go ahead and replace the tensioner. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 23, 2015 8:49:42 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 22, 2015 19:28:12 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure either will work , one is just a little longer . So this is my guess, not knowing. The reason to have a temp gauge is to watch and see if things are out of whack, and stop before melting the engine into a blob of cheap alloy aluminum. It seems to me a bright idiot light would be great for this. An easily read tempt gauge even better, especially if linked with a light. That way, when buzzing along at 100mph, the wheels bouncing so much they no longer know where the pavement even is, if the temp shoots up you have a chance to catch it in time. A dipstick? No use at all. Who would be so lucky as to look down & back at the right moment (even presuming it would be visible when riding). Is that about right? |
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Oil leaking
by: rcq92130 - Jun 21, 2015 19:38:02 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Jun 21, 2015 19:38:02 GMT -5
With more reading it looks like what I mistaken as a EGR line is actually a PAIR line. Going to go ahead and order the GY6-200 head that has that blocked off and run it. If you are interesred, I have an extra 61mm head - used about 500 miles, but as near to new as you can get. It's with high RPM springs, etc .... this is the one I have: www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-150CC-GY6-RACING-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-TAIWAN-61MM-CYLINDER-HEAD-BIG-PORT-/191598223845?hash=item2c9c24e1e5Last year I got the BBK that included this head. Unfortunately, put the piston in wrong and scored the jug (no effect at all on the head). before tearing the thing down I ordered a second BBK just to be sure i had anything I might need. Didn't need the head, so I have this extra one. PM me if interesred |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 20, 2015 22:09:34 GMT -5
Skip the Brake Stone Hone, It has Short Finger Stones for Disc Brake Calipers. Stones will most likely Remove material. it indicates fine but I see no spec of Grit#. The Flex Hone 600 Grit is the Choice. This should not remove material and will actually raise material similar to a Knurl Job on the handle of a Braker Bar. Best Choice is the Nylon Flex hone brush.http://slavensracing.com/wp-content/uploads/flexhone-brush.jpg Dmn its pricey tho. The 3-finger hone is 400 grit (unless I messed up & copied the wrong one. It will work OK. The other is 600 grit, though twice the price. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 20, 2015 18:24:41 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 19, 2015 11:42:05 GMT -5
pistonguy, got it, so if that were to be the case, how do I fix it? you spoke about deglazing, how is that done? 1. Order new rings and a gasket set 2. Get a hone from the local auto parts store (free rentals available) 3. Remove head and jug. Hone the jug (pistonguy has a great tutorial on this,. if I remember correctly). You want the 'scratches' at a 45 degree angle to each other forming a cross hatch. SLOW drill speed! Just a tiny bit of honing - the point isn't to remove cylinder wall material but simply to scratch it up. 4. Install new rings, reinstall jug & head. Fill with regular oil. (as an aside, some people take a fine grade sandpaper (400 or 600 grit) and lightly hand sand the liner after honing. Either way - make sure it is VERY clean of metal dust after you are done and before you reinstall it.) |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 19, 2015 9:58:19 GMT -5
1. OK. Helps a little.
2. So from what you say this is more than just a fine mist of spray and something is wrong.
3. A pvc - again - will not help this. On the original (PAIR) system that is now removed:
This is basically very simple. The crankcase is vented, via the nipple on the valve cover, back into the carb. Any material vented is thus fed back into the piston and burned, then out the exhaust it goes. With the EGR, etc. it's a bit more complicated that this - but that's the gist. Crankcase gases are fed back into the air intake and burned. Plugging it off, or removing it completely, will NOT cause anything more to be vented. So, if you are seeing large quantities of something vented you have some OTHER problem. A pvc valve will NOT change that. At all.
4. For the future - what most do after removing PAIR is simply to run a hose from the valve cover nipple up to a high point (right under the seat), add an old fuel filter to the end, and leave the other side of the filter open to air. Little or nothing should come out, and any oil mist entering the hose will condense and drip back into the valve cover (i.e., back into the engine). Once you get things fixed you may want to just do that with the vent.
5. Make sure you are CERTAIN oil is splattering out the vent.
6. Get a compression tester.
As GEH was saying, the only obvious reasons you would have oil splattering out the vent is (1) too much oil in the crankcase; (2) blowby (bad rings)
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 18, 2015 23:56:23 GMT -5
pistonguy , the problem is i do not understand the questions, or I would answer. I will look into the compression test. How much psi are we talking about here? See if I can help here since things are a bit mixed up. 1. LAIN, not Ital, commented that in HIS BBK he did some deglazing, etc. This has nothing to do with Ital's situation. He (Ital) bought a BBK, did nothing to it, installed it. No honing. Correct me, Ital, if that is wrong. 2. Ital, you never answered the question if this is a new oil buildup of something that developed over a long period of time. 3. When you run the engine can you see oil spurting out the vent? 4. A PCV will not fix this. At all. 5. Are you SURE the oil is coming from the valve cover vent? All that can be seen from the 1 photo you posted is oil on the plastic fender RIGHT BEHIND THE STARTER MOTOR. Sure it's not from the o-ring that is supposed to seal where the starter motor goes into the crankcase? 6. Very first check is almost always compression. Free loaners available. Bring a spark plug to make sure the thing has an adapter small enough to screw into the undersized spark plugs used on GY6 engines. Make sure you hold the throttle wide open as you crank the engine a half dozen times or so. Then tell us what psi you are getting. People are trying to help but you have given precious little info to go on, other than the fact you see oil. More info will help people help you. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 18, 2015 19:36:52 GMT -5
Stay tuned I need Lian to answer my questions to go further. I want you to completely understand what we may be dealing with here. Ital, not Lian |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 18, 2015 14:28:21 GMT -5
Don't know why you would not do a simple compression test.
Most of the auto parts stores have free loaners of testers ...
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 18, 2015 10:06:37 GMT -5
rcq92130 , why did you buy the PCV were you having a similar issue? pistonguy, I was using castrol 5w 50 syntetic, just switched to Castor 10w 40 regular oil Yes. Had bad rings. Ended up with a new BBK |
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