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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 4, 2015 21:52:35 GMT -5
Is it a an Iceberg trike, a Rukus clone, or "classic" (like my photo)?
The latch on the seat PROBABLY is spring loaded in the 'latched' position, Operated by your ignition key, or just a pull handle?
If there is nothing attached to the latch at all, you will have to feel from underneath, find the latch with your fingers, find the "arm" the cable SHOULD be attached to, and then rotate it to release the latch. The seat will not just pop up - you have to lift it clear of the latch while the latch is released.
Some (like me) have added a spring below the seat so when the latch is released the seat pops up a bit, clear of the latch. Quite handy once you have this problem resolved. Let me know if interested & I'll snap a photo of the simple fix.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 4, 2015 18:23:23 GMT -5
I think you mean the bottom RIGHT .... when facing toward the front. Correct?
GEH has the solution.
The rubber connector that comes with the intake has iunternal groves that keep the carb and the intake manifold about 1/2" apart. you COULD shave off the rubber groves ... but ...
easier to go to O'Reilly's with your carb in hand and select a car radiator hose the right diameter. Take it home and cut an inch or more off. Use that instead of the stock rubber connector. problem solved.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 4, 2015 14:42:29 GMT -5
There's been quite a few times leaving work knowing a storm was coming, it's a matter of trying to beat the storm home. Sometimes I win, sometimes I lose--- and lose badly. A complete downpour for 15 minutes of riding is the only time(s) my scoot died. A little green on the radar never bothered me. It's the yellow and red you get caught in knowingly or unknowingly. Yeah you can pull over into a store but you may be waiting for an hour, or more. Just watch for water filled potholes, lol! Oh GOD that is funny !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 4, 2015 11:43:04 GMT -5
Rain does not seem to bother my scoot at all. Of course, that's because i will NEVER knowingly ride the thing in the rain. Not a masochist.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 3, 2015 14:20:04 GMT -5
You have the all-time world's record of milage racked up by a scooter! Amazing.
So forget everything I (and probably everyone else) said, as (I think) we all thought you had a GY6 engine.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 2, 2015 23:52:48 GMT -5
Ok, so today i checked the oil level and it was almost at half when engine cold, and slightly higher when engine is hot. So strange why sometimes it showed a much higher level when engine is hot. My next thought is why the oil level is lower. It's been around 800 miles since i changed the oil. The cylinder and piston + rings are all new. also the valves are new and valves seals. No oil leaks as i can see. I checked the airfilter housing and no oil from blow by. Btw, the oil didn't get a black color yet. I still didn't add more oil. left it like that for now. Can it still be that the rings are not fully seated after more than 1200 miles? I did ride it a few times with WOT (after the engine break in). Running it at WOT can cause the engine consume oil on high RPM's? Before the rebuild i had to add almost a quart of oil every 600 miles. so it's not like that now, but still, i thought it will not have a loss of oil at all. This is a picture of the plug. looks ok for my opinion.  Hopefully I misunderstood your comment. After your rebuild you SHOULD have changed the oil after, say, 50 or 100 miles ..... then again after 300 miles .... and thereafter every 500 or 1000 miles. It sounds like you just rebuilt, added oil and then rode. During breaking - especially in the first 50 miles - a lot of metal comes off the rings. Most get caught in the screen 'filter", but no where near enough. So if you never drained and cleaned the screen you are running with a ton of abrasive material floating around. Hope i just didn't understand. ps: check oil with the dipstick NOT (NOT) screwed in. Just find a flat spot, put on center stand (important), unscrew the dipstick, place it back in (without screwing), pull out and check. Check with engine stone cold - oil half way on the cross checked area is good. pps: plug looks fine, so there is no oil blowing past the rings. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 2, 2015 18:51:48 GMT -5
Well - JB Weld - so far- has stopped the leak. I give it a 50/50 chance of holding. Depends on how much movement there is between the jug & the crankcase - would not take much to crack the JB.
Hope it holds --- then no need to pull the head & jug off .... and NO MORE BREAK IN PERIOD !!!!!!!
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 1, 2015 23:50:45 GMT -5
Yeah, after San Juan , it takes about 24hrs to get to warrendale , about 2 hours north of me . if it departs warrendale by 3 - 4 am it will be hear that day , if not it will take another day. Usually 3 days but sometimes 4. its still faster then most in the US. WAIT A MINUTE !!!!!!!!!!! So Warrendale, population 375, is the nearest large city ... and it's 2 hours away??? How far do you need to drive to get your Royal Purple??? Wisconsin?    |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 1, 2015 22:45:20 GMT -5
Hey P-Guy Package arrived from Puerto Rico (as always, in record time - much faster than domestic), so I have those measurements compression ring 1: height - 0.74mm, depth 2.66mm compression ring 2: height 1.05mm, depth 2.70mm oil ring sandwich (all 3 together): height: 2.27mm How long exactly does it usually take for parts to get to you from PR ? If I order on a Monday morning , many times I'll receive the parts on Thursday. Sometimes Friday. Wow. MUCH faster to here in san diego. These were ordered Thursday afternoon (west coast time) and sent out on Friday first class mail (not priority). Arrived by noon Monday Larger packages are sent priority. If ordered Monday they arrive by wednesday. Maybe everything to here gets delivered by plane direct from san juan. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 1, 2015 21:48:25 GMT -5
No problem. For future reference still measure the thickness for me. I may even have a set in my possession I'd just throw in a envelope for ya. Hey P-Guy Package arrived from Puerto Rico (as always, in record time - much faster than domestic), so I have those measurements compression ring 1: height - 0.74mm, depth 2.66mm compression ring 2: height 1.05mm, depth 2.70mm oil ring sandwich (all 3 together): height: 2.27mm |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 1, 2015 7:54:56 GMT -5
No problem - will measure when they arrive.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 31, 2015 20:32:48 GMT -5
Can you or anyone give me the Ring Thickness? I have a source. Please don't file down a set of 61mm, Thats 1 whole mm or .039 The ring tension would be off the charts. No Bueno!! Thank you SO MUCH! The guy in PR who supplied the BBK (good guy) made available a 60mm set, which are on the way. |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 31, 2015 19:25:35 GMT -5
Our friend in Puerto Rico made available a 60mm set of piston rings, so that & a gasket set are on the way.
Hoping they will not be needed. After scratching around and cleaning the joint between the jug & the crankcase last week, and smearing Lexan on it as best I could, it was leaking 1,000 times worse. So the moral is I have identified the problem!
Just cleaned it again, took off the exhaust for better access, and smeared a wad of JB Weld all along the seam. Don't know if there is too much movement between the jug & case - if so JB Weld will crack and leak. But maybe God is smiling down on me .....
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Post by rcq92130 on May 31, 2015 17:07:52 GMT -5
I am working up the nerve to dissasemble my scooter in order to reverse drill/easy out a broken off exhuast bolt. What is the exhuast header connected to? Underneath the scoot. I cant reach the bolt with drill right now. I can take the ( insert part name here ) off the engine right? Help me identify this part. Thanks, ***also, what is the best way to extract bolt? Do i have to disconnect engine from frame? I can hang bike from garage rafters if needed. Just a suggestion / thought: The 2 bolts securing the header to the head are steel. The head is aluminum. CERTAINLY you can drill the broken off bolt and easy-off it out. But a brand new cylinder head is so cheap. Don't know if you have a 50cc or 150cc or whatever - but IMHO it would be far easier just to order a new head, slap it on, and be done with it. No break in period required as ling as you don't remove the piston from the jug (which is between the head and the crankcase). Simple yourtube videos abound. |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 25, 2015 19:59:43 GMT -5
Yeah, of course. Went back after 500 miles and re-torqued it all.
The paper gasket, I think, just got pushed to the side when it was originally installed, and eventually started to seep. Bummer, because just sealing the thing up again is kind of a major effort because the jug has to come off.
And there do not seem to be rings available
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