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Post by rcq92130 on May 25, 2015 19:25:47 GMT -5
After only a few thousand miles the paper gasket between the 60MM BBK jug & the crank has started leaking. It's just enough to be irritating each time I walk up to the scoot and see a little wet oil spot on the ground. It's leaking on the bottom/right - where the oil return is (not pressurized), so at first I tried cleaning the area and smearing Lexan to see if it would stop the leak. No dice.
So now probably I'm going to have to tear this thing apart again just to put a new gasket in.
That means deglazing the jug (no problem) but also new rings. And i can't find any 60mm piston rings sets (including from the guy in Puerto Rico who sells the BBK kits. Only a complete new piston (w/rings & wrist pin).
I DO see 61mm ring sets.
Anyone know how much work it would be - and how practical - to file these down enough to use?
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Post by rcq92130 on May 25, 2015 13:38:38 GMT -5
There IS a german product that does wonders restoring rubber:
Gummi Pflege
But doing that with your belt would, in opinion, be a terrible decision. Just get a new belt from Walmart. OR - make sure you have towing insurance (cheaper to get a new belt).
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Post by rcq92130 on May 19, 2015 22:09:26 GMT -5
geh3333, If your oil temps never went over 212* while running hard, then your temp gauge is not very accurate. Maybe a corroded connection, or bad ground. I have 4 vehicles with oil temp gauges (counting my scooter).....all will climb to over 220* in warm weather when worked.....and other than the scoot, they are liquid/water cooled engines. Both my Camaro, and my Forester, run in excess of 200* just cruising along at 60, on level ground. Now the scoot being air cooled, and only holding 24 ounces of oil, (as opposed to 5 or 6 quarts) is naturally going to run a bit warmer....and that's ok. Todays oils are made to handle higher temps than what they did years ago. Thanks to the EPA, engines run hotter today...my Chevy pickup came with a 210* thermostat, and that is what the water temp runs, winter, summer.....always 210*. Oil temps always exceed water temps on a hot day, or when engine is worked (higher throttle settings) Wikipedi says this..... In petrol (gasoline) engines, the top piston ring can expose the motor oil to temperatures of 160 °C (320 °F). In diesel engines the top ring can expose the oil to temperatures over 315 °C (600 °F). Motor oils with higher viscosity indices thin less at these higher temperatures. Boy, that statement might make some people rethink what type of oil they want to use in their scoots, and lastly, if oil temps were supposed to max at 170* to 200* range, oil temp gauges would not read to 300* I checked it I boiling water and it read 100 degrees Celsius. I also took my temp with it and it read right. I'll take a video of the temps when I get the oil pump on. Think about it. My temps are around 230-270 or so and that's with a non working oil pump. Now everyone on this site is wondering just what temperature you think is "right" .......... |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 18, 2015 22:50:11 GMT -5
There is no dedicated passage in the jug, it flows up through one if the head bolt holes directly to the rocker arm assembly. Yeah. That IS the pressurized oil passage. |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 18, 2015 22:25:35 GMT -5
Same passage the oil just shoots out a different port " lower" its probably a smaller port so the oil makes its way up higher. No pressurized oil to the gudgeon pin or rings, George. It's a "splash" system - each time the crank reaches the bottom it splashes down into the oil reservoir. Some of that (in theory) splashes up to the wrist pin & cylinder wall. The only pressurized oil passage brings oil from the block up thru a passage in the jug, then continuing up thru a continuation of the passage to where the valve train is. I think it then spurts out on the rocker shaft, then eventually falls back into the block thru the slot where the valve chain is spinning. Kind of a Chinese system of lubricating the wrist pin, IMHO. But i guess it sort of works OK. |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 18, 2015 13:41:44 GMT -5
Thanks for all the responses! Just to be clear, I did replace the piston, and rings. I did not replace or hone the cylinder. I am going to take it all back apart, and install as gasket. I am going to look in to how to hone a cylinder. I spose I'll either do that, or buy a new cylinder. Honing is very simple ... but the cylinders are sooo cheap. To hone: 1. Go to O'Reilly's or Autozone and get a free loaner hone 2. It attaches to your drill - should be run at LOW speed (lower the better 3. With drill OFF insert hone into cylinder so the 3 stones (spring loaded) press against the cylinder walls. 4. Start drill and IMMEDIATELY begin moving the stones down to the bottom of the cylinder, then back up to the top, then back down - over and over. The GOAL, when you are down, is to have the scratch marks forming a crosshatch pattern of about 45 degrees all along the cylinder wall. 5. You are NOT trying to remove metal, really - just scratch the walls so the rings will be "sanded" when you start the engine, seating them. It's all very, very simply. Five minutes. THAT SAID - A NEW CYLINDER IS SOOO CHEAP IT'S ALMOST NOT WORTH THE TIME. |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 17, 2015 18:50:37 GMT -5
I agree with GEH but just on general principals (new cylinder). The gasket at the base of the head will NOT increase your compression - it has nothing to do with the compression --- except for a tiny bit that would be like a tiny stroker crank. If you had skipped the HEAD gasket - different matter. But the paper gasket will NOT noticably increase compression.
HOWEVER:
1. 30 miles is WAY too much to just swap the BBK. The rings are 80% set within 20 miles. New rings are cheap.
2. Without a paper gasket you are either guaranteed to have an oil leak (if you used too little silicone) or you will have blocked the oil passage to the top of the head (if you used too much). Everyone warns to only "wet" the paper gasket with silicone (or, use none at all) since any more silicone is likely to block the little oil passage.
3. You can use the old cylinder with new piston rings IF you hone the cylinder. But they are so cheap ...
4. With a BBK you are likely to not have very good luck with the stock starter motor. They are simply too girly-man. You also usually need to put better wiring in between the battery & the solenoid, between the solenoid & the starter motor, and also between the battery neg terminal and engine chassis. Stock wiring simply doesn't carry enough juice. And if you still have weak starting try a new solenoid - also cheap.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 15, 2015 19:58:21 GMT -5
I disagree with all of you. WELD THAT PUPPY. TBA , a little spot weld would work. But then again if you had to take it off you would have to be carfule not to destroy the threads. I guess you can spot weld it to the center of the flywheel " not the threads ", lol Thats actually a little strange that the nut keeps coming loose. I wonder of the woodruff key is wore causing the flywheel to spin loosening the nut ? If this is the case , a spot weld won't work . the flywheel will keep spinning until the fan hits the fan cover ! Unless u spot weld to the threads and the flywheel. SPOT WELD  Sigh. This country has become so dainty and PC NO! WELD THAT PUPPY INTO A SINGLE BIG RED MOLTEN BLOB! That way, if it's even necessary to remove the flywheel you will have a built in excuse to dump the 150 engine and get a "B" , water cooled engine bored out to 220 or 240 or whatever you can do with those. Then do a speed run showing NINETY mph and shut all the rest of us up. And gloat. Forever. |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 15, 2015 17:43:19 GMT -5
I disagree with all of you.
WELD THAT PUPPY.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 12, 2015 19:00:31 GMT -5
I've been pretty bummed I could not watch the videos (except the one w/o the mph tracker - which, like you said, is not as fun). Then I thought - "I wonder if it's because of this crappy "Opera" browser Is witched to after mozilla did what they did to Brendan Eich" ........... Sure enough - opened the page in Chrome and there it was! Fun to watch --- but you are one sick dude going at those speeds on a 2-lane road at 6am !!!!!!! no one has nad their coffee yet ..... odds of someone rolling over your butt are at least 2-to-1! Tried the app but it does not work on an iphone. But you got me curious - has to be something similar. Will find it at some point. Thx! Slow down! Kids. Wifey. Dad. Honestly I usually don't ride that fast on back roads " usually " , even on the main road I usually don't , I have been more careful after the deer incident. Of course it only takes 1 time to really screw up. I'll def be more careful . Hey buddy , did you ever install the 2000 main spring ? It should get those rpms up for you . Not yet. I have this Honda Goldwing that overheated about 2 months ago (liquid cooled) because of a stuck thermostat. Replaced a bunch of stuff in a major, pain in the project, then found one of the head gaskets was gone (because of the overheating). Just because I'm an idiot, took both heads off and replaced both. That was 2 months ago. Since then i have taken one head back off 5 times - including buying another used head. Why? Simply because the valves are clacking, and no matter what I do to adjust the valve clearance it will not fix it. To top it off - the side giving me an ulcer is the side that I did not need to mess with anyway. Yesterday I took the damned thing off again, ordered new gaskets and seals (about $80 each time), and am going to take it to a place and have it rebuilt. And if that does not work push the damned thing into a field and toast marshmellows with it. I've taken the heads off this thing about 6 times in the past. There has never, ever been any problem. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr Anyway - if I never see another wrench again it will be too soon. So probably will not get to the clutch on the scoot until I go stupid again in a few weeks, presuming the place solves the clacking issue on the Goldwing.... |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 12, 2015 15:41:14 GMT -5
I've been pretty bummed I could not watch the videos (except the one w/o the mph tracker - which, like you said, is not as fun). Then I thought - "I wonder if it's because of this crappy "Opera" browser Is witched to after mozilla did what they did to Brendan Eich" ...........
Sure enough - opened the page in Chrome and there it was! Fun to watch --- but you are one sick dude going at those speeds on a 2-lane road at 6am !!!!!!! no one has nad their coffee yet ..... odds of someone rolling over your butt are at least 2-to-1!
Tried the app but it does not work on an iphone. But you got me curious - has to be something similar. Will find it at some point. Thx!
Slow down! Kids. Wifey. Dad.
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Post by rcq92130 on May 6, 2015 12:43:47 GMT -5
I am working on a scooter and have got it to run perfectly, however the only issue I'm having is the stupid fuel outlet on the petcock is below the carb... So the fuel does not make it's way up the line into the carb. I have filled the fuel line and carb bowl with gas while holding the line above the carb and the fuel goes right into the carb like it should and runs for about 3 minutes then dies. After checking the bowl after running it is dry when connected to the petcock... Gravity is not helping me on this. How do I get the fuel to climb up the line? Or how do I get it to the carb from the petcock? It is all stock, the factory seems to have designed it this way... EEEEEEE-lectric |
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Post by rcq92130 on May 4, 2015 12:26:30 GMT -5
I recently upgraded to a 180cc big bore kit for my GY6 ruckus and I am noticing the carb is constantly overfilled, which is evident by the excessive fuel pouring out as soon as I loosen the screws to the carb bowl and the fact the overfill tube is always full of gas. The scooter will randomly cut out when I am cruising mid-throttle. I am running an OKO 30mm D-slide carb, which is brand new, and I made sure the needle and seat are working properly. I currently have a round Mikuni DF52-21-D dual output 35L/hr pump installed, with both fuel outlets T'd to a single hose that runs to my carb. Does the stronger vacuum pressure at the intake manifold of my 180cc engine increases the fuel pressure or flow rate the vacuum pump operates at? The fuel delivery setup I have now is the same setup I used with my 150cc and I never ran into flooding or overfueling the carb. In fact, I had to use the Mikuni dual output setup because the rectangular DF-44 single output Mikuni pump wouldn't be able to provide enough fuel during WOT sessions. I would actually run the carb bowl dry only after a few minutes of WOT. Once i switched to the Mikuni dual outlet pump, I would be able to WOT all day and not starve the carb of fuel. Now it seems with the 180cc build, it's the opposite problem of overfueling. The first thing i tried was installing a vacuum restrictor (basically a hose coupler with a small hole restrictor inside) inline between the pump and the vacuum nipple on the intake manifold. I thought by restricting the vacuum, it would lower the pressure or flow rate of the pump. Turned out it didn't change anything. Carb was still getting overfilled just the same. Again, i verified the needle and seat are working properly. One friend recommended I switch my vacuum line to a smaller diameter line, but seeing how the vacuum restrictor didn't make a difference, I don't see how changing to a smaller diameter vacuum line would help either. Would switching back to the single output 14L/hr Mikuni pump fix this issue? FYI: I went to an electric fuel pump, so a different setup but a similar problem. The pump was rated at 4psi to 6psi, which should in theory be fine with the 30mm carb I have (like yours). But i kept getting over fueling - especially after shutting the thing down ---- the pressure in the line would be released gradually, and the gas level would rise too high (sometimes so gas would flow out the inlet of the carb body). Took it apart a few weeks ago and the needle valve had been damaged after only about 1K miles. So, new needle valve ---- but also a pressure regulator just before the carb to solve the underlying problem. There is a perfect little device made for VW Beetles - small round chrome regulator that is easily set anywhere from 1psi to 6 psi. I have it now set to 2psi, which seems fine for what the carb needs. Note: the regulator does not cut down the flow RATE - same amount of fuel is available if needed. All it restricts is the max PRESSURE. Might want to consider something similar. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 30, 2015 23:06:27 GMT -5
Got an idea for the dremmel cutouts I think you will L O V E, George! Angle downwards a bit to simulate descent at a rapid pace.  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 29, 2015 0:01:17 GMT -5
Lain - naturally you should and will do what makes the most sense to you.
but I urge you to consider:
The absolute best supplier we have here is John. He takes a personal interest in trying to make sure the things he sells are good. But his is a small company - as is every other single scooter retailer in America. not a one of them has the ability to actually set up a real QC department, or to exert any buying pressure on manufacturers. And so, despite best efforts, what we end up getting is hit and miss. Even from john. From the others ..... bleh.
Walmart may be a company you hate. Shrug. But they have an immense QC activity, and have the clout to make manufacturers jump. The idea they sell "seconds" is preposterous.
True, their target customer is middle class, and so they tend to sell not the top-of-the-line product (their customer can't afford it). But we are talking here about a standard product. From Walmart you are guaranteed of getting a real Gates Powerlink Kevlar belt. From anyone else you will get ... who knows. I paid TWICE the price and still got (probably) a fake. Stupid me; should have gone to Walmart - at least I would be getting the real deal. The fact their price is lower is just icing on the cake.
your worry you may end up stranded is reasonable from EVERY other supplier (well, not NAPA, but their prices are the highest in the country). That worry is ENDED if you go to Walmart. IMHO, you are looking at this backwards.
My 2 cents, for what its worth.
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