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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 28, 2015 13:26:33 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 27, 2015 22:13:45 GMT -5
I bought a RPM gauge from eBay to help me do adjustments and general maintenance on the scoot. Just don't know where to wire it up exactly! Haha Here's the gauge:    Anybody ever used this gauge? You have a fuel gauge there on the bottom (or maybe a clock). If a fuel guage at least one wire is to the sending unit (maybe two, unless it uses a common ground. Of course there will be a +12v and a ground wire (usually green). The key is the "sensor" wire to receive impulses from the ignition so the thing can calculate the RPM. I have the same one WITHOUT the fuel gauge. Spent a lot of wasted time trying to figure out where the 'sensor' wire attaches. Turns out it needs to be spliced into the INPUT to the CDI (the wire from the pickup module beside the flywheel). Another (similar) one on FleaBay said this: Red line -- Positive Black line -- Negative Green line -- Speed Signal (that means CDI)Yellow line connected the center from the ignition switch to the positive battery |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 27, 2015 21:08:17 GMT -5
I ordered bulbs for my moms car , and these are the high beams bulbs that are suppose to fit her sonata , but they were too long and hit part of the inner assembly. I purchased them about 1 month ago . I'll just stick with the h4 bulbs . these ones are h1 if I m not mistaken . Here are 3 pix of how to wire your switches in. Like all schematics, looks way more complicate than it is. Pic 1 - where to snip your wires (you are just sniping the wire to EACH headlight so you can power them separately). DON'T snip the ground (green?) wire - I just messed up when drawing this pic)  Pic 2 - wiring the high beam to switches (all you are doing is to put a pair of switches between the wire harness and each high beam)  Pic 3 - wiring the low beam (this is just like high beam, EXCEPT adding a third switch so you can turn the low beam flasher on or off)  The only thing is I would NOT connect the flasher/relay line to #1 untill you have your 11-pole installed (so you don't draw too much current when the flasher is ). |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 27, 2015 1:34:45 GMT -5
I have a set of these led high beam lights laying around . if I can get them to fit nice in the headlight assembly they might work pretty good.  I assume those are CREE bulbs. A few things (I considered using them and decided to not do so). 1. The newer ones are sort of bright enough, but anything more than 6 months old will not be anywhere near as bright as your H4. 2. They get HOT. I'd worry more about melting your headlight assembly with CREE bulbs than with H4s. 3. No high beam / low beam. You CAN get an H4-sized base on a CREE bulb -so it will just plug in. Doesn't look like those are them. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 27, 2015 0:08:08 GMT -5
It doesn't sound dumb... You just don't know, so do what you're doing and ask... That's a sign of smarts, not dummy-ness  ... Dummies just do stuff without asking. The R/R acts in accordance with the load... You flick on lights, R/R instantly detects and tries to compensate. Now, you're battery would act as a buffer and it was fully charged... Could be 15min, could be 2min, however, when you shut your scoot off you would have to charge it... In addition, even though your battery would be buffing the load, your stator and R/R would try to compensate for the load and run hot....The longer you ride, the more your lights would dim until battery is re-charged... So, you could get away with it for short burst if you recharged at night, but you're still working the heck out of your electrical system and in my opinion, is a bad idea altogether... And something else to consider... I don't even know if your head lamp bezel could support that much heat... Even with the fancy vent holes the deer helped you make... You might melt the thing... Bottom line is this... You're talking to someone who knows this stuff pretty well and would never attempt what you're doing... It's a bad idea in my opinion... Get yourself 2, 35 watt HID or Halogen light and you'll be golden. That's more than enough light for night time driving ...... Even if you install the 11 pole, I would still advise against installing two of those H4's... Listen to Rcq, 1, is more than fine.... Them H4's are BRIGHT!!!That's what I'll do then , I'll just hook them up so I can use one at a time . thanks So, then, George - it's really simple to put in switches (as you know) but i suggest this: I don't use either H4 filament during the day (use the LED stack then) and at night I really only use the high beam. Want to see and be seen !!!!!!!!!!! So - just connect ONE low beam wire, so if you put the low beam on only one light illuminates (you can always simply connect the other H4 low beam later if you want) Then put TWO switches in so you can turn on either or both HIGH beams (or have 'em both off). And - once you see the really cool flasher you will (I think) want to hook it up --- so one more switch for that. three switches total. Want me to draw up a little wiring diagram for ya? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 26, 2015 23:47:41 GMT -5
I see you guys have all those fancy light up switches... Can you use a light up switch for the kill switch? Like have it only illuminate when the key is turned to on and have it work like normal where it can kill the engine and also prevent starting? Well, sure - just cliup the wire to, say, the CDI and put a switch there. With the switch "OFF" the CDI won't function and the scoot won't run, no matter what's done at the key. So you know - the OReilly $4 illuminated switches light up when ON. If you want it to light up when the scoot is DISABLED (i.e., scoot "off") you would have to rig a little circuit. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 26, 2015 23:45:18 GMT -5
I'm quite busy tonight so If I don't get back to ya, bare with me..... Volts are only one part of electrical capacitance value. You also have to take into account Amps... Amps, x Volts = watts... Now, watts can be directly translated into heat. To keep it simple, just think of it like this, more watts equals more heat..... Excessive heat is the number 1 killer of R/R's and Stators... If you examine the diagram I produced in the other thread with the R/R's specs, this R/R is spec'd to 10 AMPs MAX for the A/C input... That is not an RMS value... It also list the DC charge output MAX value at 5500 RPM's/6 AMP's/14.6 volts...That is 87.6 watts you have available at MAX charge... Now you're correct in assuming the R/R will automatically adjust now that you have the black wire hooked up, but it can not adjust beyond it's rated specs.. Is what would happen, is you would wind up running it at max capacity and that thing would be very hot to the touch even, then eventually fail to the heat.... Just do the math....you have 87.6 watts available... Them two lights you're talking about is a whopping 120 watts... And that's not talking about your tail, indicator and instrument lights. As to Rcq's setup? Who know's... Like you've seen, you can hook it up and get light, but you're going to be wreaking havoc on you're electrical... He may have an 8 or 11 pole stator with a full wave R/R... Full wave theoretically doubles your electrical output. *edit, now I know why... He only has one... His scoot would have no problems supporting one of these lights.  This might sound dumb but , the rr's max dc output is 14.6 volts . with the battery hooked up and with its 12-13 volts , I would expect the regulator would slowly have to keep stepping up the volts to account for the drain on the battery. Or would it all of a sudden be at max output when the lights come on ? The reason i ask this is because The longest I ride one way is about 12-15 min. During the day " no lights " night I would run the lights . I guess my main question is , would the regulator send max voltage to the battery right off the bat or will it slowly raise the current to the battery as lights begin to drain it ? Would I have enough battery power to run the lihts for 15 mins and possibly not draw to much from the regulator ? Or am I just wrong ? My best bet is to just run one light at a time or install the 11 pole stator I have . I would have to buy a new regulator for the 11 pole . The problem isn't voltage but current. The RR senses the draw on the system and shunts as much current to the battery to keep it charged (limiting the voltage to 14.4v). The instant you turned on both H4s the current drain would peg the RR at full bore - so everything the stator produced would be used. I don't see how that would kill the stator, since it's used to going full bore. But the RR would indeed heat up and that would shorten it's lifespan. You have an 11 -pole??? There you go - problem solved! Just get a beefier RR to go with the 11-poles bigger bump. I'd personally still put in switches as I like to be able to have things come on and go off as I want them to, not as some Chinese engineer decided they should. And if you do THAT you can wait for as long as you want to get around to installing the 11-pole big dog. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 26, 2015 22:42:29 GMT -5
DM says you have TWO headlights ... so here is a suggestion.
1. The flasher you will receive tomorrow is ideal for you. It has TWO outputs and is really designed to blink the lights alternately (it has 7 blink modes, I think - so "alternately" isn't exactly correct). Let's say it is designed to use TWO lights that blink in some sort of synchronized mode,. Having only ONE hedlight I can only use one output -- but you can use both. Ideal.
2 At the moment you probably can't run both at the same time. I don't know what the current draw would be running the two H4 bulbs 'alternately' - there is a large surge current when they turn on, so it might be you can't run both lights even though they are alternating and not really going "on at the same time". I don't know.
3. If you everntually upgraded to a more robust )8 or 11 pole) stator, and a beefier RR, I would imagine you could do whatever you wanted. So ---- you have a "TRANSITION" issue.
4. A solution might be to add TWO switches - one for each headlight bulb - so you could turn on none, either one, or both according to your switch. You can also run the flasher output to the switch so it controls whatever you are feeding to the bulb(s) - either a continuous current (as in simply using them at night) or flashing (as in using them during the day). Then, for now, just keep only ONE switch "on" so you don't draw too much current for what your electrical system can supply.
5. Then - if in 6 months you upgrade to a bigger output stator and RR, you can simply have both switches "ON" and bingo - instant upgrade to a 2-bulb system
6. Trust me - ONE H4 at night is great !!!!!!
7. Just make sure you also don't blast both HIGH beams when you switch on the high beams. Either don't connect the wire to one of the H$ high beam terminals, or have a pair of switches for them as well. I'd personally go with the first - tape it off inside the headlight cavity, then it's simple to attach once you upgrade stators (if you do). Again - ONE H4 high beam is GREAT at night!
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 26, 2015 21:47:30 GMT -5
If you have TWO headlights you could always install a switch and just power one or the other at a time.
I can tell you ONE H4 at night is great!
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 26, 2015 21:45:26 GMT -5
Hey George. A couple of things I did that may be food for thought for you. On my scoot I installed a little bank of 4 O’Reilly’s illuminated switches (about $4 each):  Here is what they do: #1: This turns the radio on/off. I need this b/c the radio is inside the trunk, so to turn the volume down I would need to stop, unlock the trunk to get to the radio. This way I can just switch it off and then back on. #2: This controls the little driving light bulb that is in the headlight dish to the side of where the main H4 bulb is (normally “on” at all times). I clipped the wire to the bulb and routed it thru the switch so I can turn this bulb circuit on or off. Why, you might ask, since the tiny ChinaBulb that comes with the scoot is a wimpy little, far left 1 millionth of a watt bulb that barely glows? Well, I wanted this to be a driving light used during the day. So …. I first got an LED stack that gives out WAY more light at a fraction of the current of the ChinaBulb. It’s not bright enough to use as a headlight, but is much more than just the ChinBulb ‘glow’. Then I got a cheap little $20 flasher unit from EBay. The clipped wire first goes to Switch #2, then to the flasher, then back to the LED stack that sits in the hole where the chinaBulb was. With the switch “off” – nothing. With the switch “on” the LED stack flashes – makes it pretty visible to other traffic so they don’t flatten you. Don’t know if Bambi would have paid attention … ps: I happened to have an extra LED stack and put it in the box you should be getting tomorrow. If interested, use it – if not, pass it along. #3: I use this to turn the low beam on or off. The low beam is normally “on” at all times, which I didn’t want since I have a large flasher unit (see Switch #4). So, when Switch #3 is “ON” the H4 low beam illuminates like it normally would; when the switch is off it does not. Either way, sliding the headlight switch to high beam turns on the HIGH beam – so still simple to get instant light even with this switch in the off position. I don’t really use the H4 low beam very much any more except via Switch #4. #4: I have a BIG flasher unit also connected to the H4 low beam, and this turns it on or off. The low beam clipped wire that goes to the input of Switch #3 ALSO goes to the input of Switch #4. But from there the wire goes to the flasher, and from there back to the H4 low beam. So – both Switch #3 and #4 control the H4 low beam ---- #3 giving a steady light when “ON”, #4 giving a flashing H4 low beam when “ON” (much brighter than the flashing LED). Good for a driving light when overcast or foggy – but of course uses much more current than the LED stack. Ps: I mentioned to you I had an extra flasher unit – put it in the box for you. Use or pass along if no interest. This is not like the cheap driving light flasher – this is an ultra high end flasher use mainly on ambulances. Very efficient. !!!BUT!!! – it’s intended to be used ONLY for LED bulbs, and if you use it and wire it directly to your H$ low beam you will for sure burn it out. S – wire it: clipped low beam wire to switch, switch to flasher, flasher to RELAY. Then wire the contacted terminals of the relay from battery to H4 low beam. That way the flasher unit is ONLY driving the relay, and the relay is the thing actually providing current to the H4. Anyway – food for thought maybe. I'll def use them . I used one of the illuminated switches for my fog lights . which now don't work because of crash. U used the 55/60 watt halogen h4 bulbs and powered them from the regulator . you didn't blow or burn anything up did you ? Yes, I use that bulb BUT!!!!!!!!!!! I only have ONE headlight, and only use ONE H4 bulb. From what DMartin said, I'm guessing you have TWO headlights and are planning on using TWO H4 bulbs at the same time ... is that right? One H4 - no problem. Two ..... I dunno! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 26, 2015 20:01:40 GMT -5
My situation may be different from others since my 150cc scoot came with a 4 pole stator , and I'm not sure if the wiring is the same as scoots with 6-8 pole stators ? Hey George. A couple of things I did that may be food for thought for you. On my scoot I installed a little bank of 4 O’Reilly’s illuminated switches (about $4 each): Here is what they do: #1: This turns the radio on/off. I need this b/c the radio is inside the trunk, so to turn the volume down I would need to stop, unlock the trunk to get to the radio. This way I can just switch it off and then back on. #2: This controls the little driving light bulb that is in the headlight dish to the side of where the main H4 bulb is (normally “on” at all times). I clipped the wire to the bulb and routed it thru the switch so I can turn this bulb circuit on or off. Why, you might ask, since the tiny ChinaBulb that comes with the scoot is a wimpy little, far left 1 millionth of a watt bulb that barely glows? Well, I wanted this to be a driving light used during the day. So …. I first got an LED stack that gives out WAY more light at a fraction of the current of the ChinaBulb. It’s not bright enough to use as a headlight, but is much more than just the ChinBulb ‘glow’. Then I got a cheap little $20 flasher unit from EBay. The clipped wire first goes to Switch #2, then to the flasher, then back to the LED stack that sits in the hole where the chinaBulb was. With the switch “off” – nothing. With the switch “on” the LED stack flashes – makes it pretty visible to other traffic so they don’t flatten you. Don’t know if Bambi would have paid attention … ps: I happened to have an extra LED stack and put it in the box you should be getting tomorrow. If interested, use it – if not, pass it along. #3: I use this to turn the low beam on or off. The low beam is normally “on” at all times, which I didn’t want since I have a large flasher unit (see Switch #4). So, when Switch #3 is “ON” the H4 low beam illuminates like it normally would; when the switch is off it does not. Either way, sliding the headlight switch to high beam turns on the HIGH beam – so still simple to get instant light even with this switch in the off position. I don’t really use the H4 low beam very much any more except via Switch #4. #4: I have a BIG flasher unit also connected to the H4 low beam, and this turns it on or off. The low beam clipped wire that goes to the input of Switch #3 ALSO goes to the input of Switch #4. But from there the wire goes to the flasher, and from there back to the H4 low beam. So – both Switch #3 and #4 control the H4 low beam ---- #3 giving a steady light when “ON”, #4 giving a flashing H4 low beam when “ON” (much brighter than the flashing LED). Good for a driving light when overcast or foggy – but of course uses much more current than the LED stack. Ps: I mentioned to you I had an extra flasher unit – put it in the box for you. Use or pass along if no interest. This is not like the cheap driving light flasher – this is an ultra high end flasher use mainly on ambulances. Very efficient. !!!BUT!!! – it’s intended to be used ONLY for LED bulbs, and if you use it and wire it directly to your H$ low beam you will for sure burn it out. S – wire it: clipped low beam wire to switch, switch to flasher, flasher to RELAY. Then wire the contacted terminals of the relay from battery to H4 low beam. That way the flasher unit is ONLY driving the relay, and the relay is the thing actually providing current to the H4. Anyway – food for thought maybe. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 22, 2015 12:29:35 GMT -5
Did you clock the rings when you installed them? (all ring gaps should be  degrees from each other so that they don't line up)... And you have probably posted this, but what's your valve gap? I still think the rings didn't seat. How many miles has the BBK been on it? How did you break it in, etc. Symptoms of worn or not seated rings.... higher crank case pressures (your valve cover vent hose), combustion by products contaminating the oil, and of course, low compression. Is the plug oily? On the carb issue, I'd pull it and clean it and check for vacuum leaks. I followed the guides on how to install the rings and BBK to the dot. I installed the ring gaps by marking the piston with a marker and installing them so the gaps all lined up even while I slide it into the cylinder. The first BBK I tried I did not install the rings properly and so back then it was spouting oil out the exhaust all the time. But the second complete kit after trying a second head (so my third head but second complete kit) I followed directions from people on the forum and marked it up and everything. The plug is not oily, but I removed some carbon deposit from the electrodes (I have a 3 electrode spark plug) by just chipping it off with my fingernail. The plug seems really good, mocha brown, no wetness, no oil. I feel like on the exhaust stroke maybe gas is getting into the oil in the valve cover through the exhaust valve, but oil is not being sucked into the chamber. Usually when I change my oil the oil level does not go down until after the oil has blackened. Hopefully this is just a misread - but you said you had the gaps in the rings all lined up. If so, that's your problem right there because that is guaranteed to cause blowby. The gap on every ring should be rotated 120 to 180 degrees from where the gap of the next lower ring is (some say 1/3 of the way around, others say 1/2 the way). You NEVER should have ring gaps right above each other. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 21, 2015 23:15:55 GMT -5
The oil drain hose?
Which one - the one from the engine valve cover, or the one from the gearbox?
And by chance did you check to make sure the engine still has oil? The sound kind of seems like your oil pump scavenging for oil when there is none.
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 21, 2015 19:01:18 GMT -5
That's perfect ! Rcq , you always come through for me . I'll be sending you a gift when I get some cash . You better not! I be a buddy, not a ho! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 21, 2015 15:20:22 GMT -5
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degrees from each other so that they don't line up)... And you have probably posted this, but what's your valve gap?