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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 20, 2015 22:27:39 GMT -5
You helped me out enough already , I'll stick to the basics for now , thanks for the offer. If im not mistaken the h4 has 3 prongs off the back . I will cut the socket off and buy some connectors that slide over the three prongs . I'll just need to make sure I have the high and low beams hooked up correctly . was you socket like this?  . The h4 has the same three prongs as the socket and should fit right into the assembly socket.  . Assembly socket.  Yep. The headlight bucket accepts this perfectly. Couple of female blade connectors slipped onto the H4 blades will work fine. Or, at OReilly you can just get an H4 socket with 3 wires coming from it that you can solder & shrinkwrap onto the scoots wires. Simple and easy. And what a difference at night! I see you also have the pitiful little 'driving light' bulb to the side of the main socket. What I did was get a 64-LED bulb and siliconed it into that hole (had to file it a little bit bigger). The bulb on EBay isn't bright enough for a nighttime bulb, for for a driving light it's fine - so if you switch your low beam you can leave it off and only use the LED. Takes almost no power. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 20, 2015 22:25:09 GMT -5
1. Yes, they screw in properly. But (on mine) the electrical connector needed to be updated to the correct one. Simple and cheap. 2. I just ran them off the normal headlight wiring 3. I also put in a flasher (switch controlled) so I can flip a switch and have the headlight flash. Want one? I have an extra, but you will need to use a relay with it - and a switch so you can turn the low beam off, and the flasher on, when you want. You helped me out enough already , I'll stick to the basics for now , thanks for the offer. If im not mistaken the h4 has 3 prongs off the back . I will cut the socket off and buy some connectors that slide over the three prongs . I'll just need to make sure I have the high and low beams hooked up correctly . was you socket like this? . The h4 has the same three prongs as the socket and should fit right into the assembly socket. . Assembly socket. Yep. The headlight bucket accepts this perfectly. Couple of female blade connectors slipped onto the H4 blades will work fine. Or, at OReilly you can just get an H4 socket with 3 wires coming from it that you can solder & shrinkwrap onto the scoots wires. Simple and easy. And what a difference at night! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 20, 2015 21:18:45 GMT -5
For broken off screw standoffs, I first used the acrylic cement to re-attach the standoff, the put a blob of "Plastic Mender" epoxy around where the break was to give added strength. Seems to work fine - screws attach OK and remain gripping the standoff pretty well. I don't even have the piece that broke off  If you are not too traumatized by that stretch of the road, take a spin back to Deerville. My bet - the piece is sitting there on the side of the road, lonely and forlorn, thinking you don't love it any more. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 20, 2015 21:17:40 GMT -5
Oh. I thought things had not worked out in terms of piecing the thing back together. Hope it all ends up OK, if not perfect. I have an H4 (halogen, not LED) high power headlight bulb in. Had to also change the socket from the ChinaSocket the thing came with. LOVE ---- *L*O*V*E* it. Can't imagine riding at night w/o a reral headlight. Hope your LED lights work - I wasn't able to find anything that gave enough light, so i went with regular H4 halogen bulb. As for how much current they draw: they take a lot, but it seems like it's not a problem. As you know, I have electric everything (fuel pump, air horns, 100W radio, extra brake lights, and so on. I only use the high power headlight at night (installed a bank of switches above my right knee to control everything). The ChinaAmpMeter shows the voltage pegged at 13.5 or so volts during the day (only an LED driving light). At night, with the H4 blazing, the voltage stays pretty pegged except at idle, when it drops to about 12 or 12.5 volts. If i idled for a bunch of hours it might actually be discharging a bit - don't know since that's not a realistic riding pattern. But, under normal riding conditions, no problem at all. And i have the el cheapo, stock stator and regulator. I think it's a 1/4 pole thing. Or something. I was wondering where you were . did you connect the h4 bulbs DC with a switch to the battery ? Or did you run them off headlight wires from the regulator ? The h4 bulbs seem like they will take the place of the old headlight socket perfectly. 1. Yes, they screw in properly. But (on mine) the electrical connector needed to be updated to the correct one. Simple and cheap. 2. I just ran them off the normal headlight wiring 3. I also put in a flasher (switch controlled) so I can flip a switch and have the headlight flash. Want one? I have an extra, but you will need to use a relay with it - and a switch so you can turn the low beam off, and the flasher on, when you want. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 20, 2015 20:46:52 GMT -5
Here is a pic with the headlight cover , and a pic of the underneath of the cover. The headlight cover is cracked in a few places , u can see one of the cracks bottom and inside of the right headlight. The most important part that's broke is in the second pic. The pieces that stick off that the screw go through are broke , one is completely gone. If I end up using it , I may connect it like the hood of some street racing cars , with pins and cotter keys. The cover still has the back screw connections so that's good.  .  For broken off screw standoffs, I first used the acrylic cement to re-attach the standoff, the put a blob of "Plastic Mender" epoxy around where the break was to give added strength. Seems to work fine - screws attach OK and remain gripping the standoff pretty well. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 20, 2015 20:44:26 GMT -5
Oh. I thought things had not worked out in terms of piecing the thing back together. Hope it all ends up OK, if not perfect.
I have an H4 (halogen, not LED) high power headlight bulb in. Had to also change the socket from the ChinaSocket the thing came with. LOVE ---- *L*O*V*E* it. Can't imagine riding at night w/o a reral headlight. Hope your LED lights work - I wasn't able to find anything that gave enough light, so i went with regular H4 halogen bulb.
As for how much current they draw: they take a lot, but it seems like it's not a problem. As you know, I have electric everything (fuel pump, air horns, 100W radio, extra brake lights, and so on. I only use the high power headlight at night (installed a bank of switches above my right knee to control everything). The ChinaAmpMeter shows the voltage pegged at 13.5 or so volts during the day (only an LED driving light). At night, with the H4 blazing, the voltage stays pretty pegged except at idle, when it drops to about 12 or 12.5 volts. If i idled for a bunch of hours it might actually be discharging a bit - don't know since that's not a realistic riding pattern. But, under normal riding conditions, no problem at all.
And i have the el cheapo, stock stator and regulator. I think it's a 1/4 pole thing. Or something.
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 18, 2015 1:16:40 GMT -5
Will piston rings go bad from just turning the scooter over and not starting? Never been ran with the piston cylinder or rings. if there still good I plan on putting the cylinder and piston into my newer actually running scoot. I had a tao tao atm50 that didn't run and it had a 72cc bbk when I got it and I tryed to get it running by rebuilding it with a new 72cc bbk and it didn't work just a lot of turning over and no start. So can I reuse it with the same rings? Any help will be greatly appreciated. If I understand, you hit the starter but with the engine switch "off", so it spun by the starter motor but never fired. Right? That's not enough to affect the rings - would take 5 or 10 miles of running. BUT - these things are SOOO cheap I just don't see why you would bother. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 17, 2015 20:25:10 GMT -5
Just ordered the rolling fan cover , and a set of koso 16 gram rollers. I should have her up and running by the end of next week. Found the tracking number and answered my own question. Appears it's in some town called Warrendale. USPS track 9400109699939844237006 |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 17, 2015 19:38:10 GMT -5
Get a felt tip and mark that puppy so you can get an accurate idea of how big or little the dead zone still is. But i am just mystified. You are running 24-Hour Fitness dumbbells in your variator, and still hitting 8K RPM. I'm running 9 gr sliders - have tiny 10" wheels, which should REALLY spin the engine - and am lucky to hit 7500 ... and that only on occasion. Wierd Lol , so am I . I could understand if the belt wasn't rising on the variator but it is. I was trying to think of a way to tell for sure if my clutch wasn't slipping. I think I might have figured it out. If my clutch was slipping and I had 10.5 gram weights in , when I hit 8000 rpms the belt would have climbed pretty far up the variator but it only rose a little over half way up the face. So what this tells me is that the weights are just too light to push the belt up the face. When I had the 10.5 gram weights in , I barely got down the rd and I ended up hitting 8000 rpms way too easy . I was even hitting those rpms up hill. The 12.5 gram weights def rose the belt higher on the variator " pretty much matched the koso's highest belt travel " but the rpms didn't change much. The 14 grams lowered the rpms but I was still hitting 8000 rpms on a straight run and the rpms would have rose higher if I had a longer run to test it on. Even up hill I was over 7000 rpms then I met Bambi's fat cousin. I'll check the belt climb sometime today to see how much higher the belt rose. Problem is It wasn't on a long straight run , so I hope the belt had a chance to rise to its fullest . I have an old stock clutch I might try , just to verify its not slipping. If I find out the clutch is fine , I'm going to have a winner. Yes this kind of sucks that I have to buy heavier rollers , but if I can get full climb out of the variator , between 7 and 8k rpms , and still be able to reach 8k+ rpms , then I'm in the market for taller gears and we all know what that means. To be able to reach full climb and at least 7500 rpms on a straight run with , let's say 17:36 gears , that would be impressive. Especially with the taller 13inch tires I have. I'll be working on the plastic 2moro . I might even try to fix the fan shroud , so I may be up and running Tuesday. My headlights should be able to be repaired pretty easy actually. The lens is broke in half right between both sides , so the epoxy should fix that up pretty quick . the two bottom holes for the bolts are broke , but I can drill holes and run zip ties through the bottom of the headlight case and then secure them in the bolt holes on the scoot. The top two bolt holes on the headlights are in tact so thats a plus. I have some silicone I can use to make a bead before I reinstall the lens to the light assembly. Little bit of work on the black headlight covet and the right floor board and I'm in business. Did the acrylic glue arrive yet? If not, suggest you try to do a temp repair that will not muck up the edges, and do a real repair when the glue arrives. Then once done it will really be done - forever. Or at least until you attack another little doe-eyed doe. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 16, 2015 16:28:20 GMT -5
I have a 2007 Honda elite ch80. For some reason when I am going down the road if I hit a bump my engine looses power briefly. It really has me puzzled, I have checked all my wires they are tight with no bare ones. I swapped out my coil thinking maybe the end was bad, I have taken the carb off disassembled it and cleaned it and nothing has made a difference. I also checked the fuel line for kinks. If I sit on my scoot and have the engine running and bounce on it the engine doesn't cut out, if I go over a railroad track or hit a bump while moving it cuts out. Any suggestions But on a more serious note - check the connections to the coil. My first suspicion would be they are loose. If not, start checking other connections for tightness. Presuming it SUDDENLY cuts out at the point when yiou hit the bump it's not likely to be a fuel problem. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 16, 2015 16:27:17 GMT -5
I have a 2007 Honda elite ch80. For some reason when I am going down the road if I hit a bump my engine looses power briefly. It really has me puzzled, I have checked all my wires they are tight with no bare ones. I swapped out my coil thinking maybe the end was bad, I have taken the carb off disassembled it and cleaned it and nothing has made a difference. I also checked the fuel line for kinks. If I sit on my scoot and have the engine running and bounce on it the engine doesn't cut out, if I go over a railroad track or hit a bump while moving it cuts out. Any suggestions Go around them? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 14, 2015 17:25:18 GMT -5
I agree 100%. With you being somewhat close to PA we need to get together on a scoot ride one of these days. We could possibly meet half way and do some riding, maybe plan it around some type of event somewhere. It would be nice if many of us could get together on a cross country run . man that would be something , riding a 150cc China scoot cross country. But it would def be something we'd always remember. A Chinese scoot tour! I can just picture it. "My engine is overheating." "My tire is wobbling!" "My fender just fell off!" "I think my CDI is broken!" "My carburetor is leaking!"  Just bring lots of tools. that IS FUNNY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 14, 2015 12:48:05 GMT -5
I am looking to buy some performance air filters for my scooters. I purchased some K&N's that fit the carburetor, but they hit that stupid bar on the frame... So, does anyone have a recommendation for a good filter (prefer K&N) that I'm able to use? Part number will be great, link will be better.... Thanks. Here is a setup that is simple, great airflow, and no interference problems: i58.tinypic.com/120l1fp.jpgThis is with an oversized (30mm) carb, but that isn't relevant. The filter is just a normal Uni filter. the gray duct is a piece of exhaust pipe bent by my local muffler shop for $5 or $10 (including the pipe). It's attached at the carb end with a piece of radiator hose of the right diameter. On the uni end the muffler guy swedged it to the proper diameter so the Uni rubber piece fits perfectly. Also made up a little metal support that is welded to the duct and attaches to one of the starter motor bolts - keeps everything nice and sway-free. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 14, 2015 12:34:19 GMT -5
Te 16"wheel scooter engines are different crank head intake cvt. John I, for one, do not see how a larger wheel is any different than up-gearing. Both accomplish the exact same thing : increasing the road distance traveled for every engine RPM. Those nice big wheels may make for a great and stable RIDE, but i do not see how they improve top end beyond what you could get from a gear change. I also don't see how the engine could come with a 'stroked" crank and still be 150cc. I can understand how the engine is a much better platform for a BBK (wider spacing of head bolts, maybe beefier construction). And I can certainly understand if the head is ported better, or the variator bigger, the engine could be a stronger power source. Not trying to throw cold water on what is a cool scoot and a VERY interesting thread. Just trying to understand. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 14, 2015 1:04:11 GMT -5
So much for the theory a stock 150cc GY6 can never achieve much more than 60+ mph.
VERY INTERESTING !!!!!!!!!!!!!
It will be fun to see where this all plays out ... and why you can get so much more out of this stock 150 compared to other stock 150s !
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. The h4 has the same three prongs as the socket and should fit right into the assembly socket. 
. Assembly socket. 
