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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 13, 2015 20:13:57 GMT -5
The more I think about it , I might only need the fan shroud. I think I can use the epoxy to fix the headlights and most of the other plastic. I can use the bondo and some metal screen to rebuild the front piece of the front fender.that way I'll only need about 20 bucks to fix the damage , since I already have the bondo and metal screen patches. The fan shroud is about 15 bucks and I'll need some epoxy . I think you said back a ways that w/o the fan shroud you would without a doubt overheat. I'm guessing, but my guess is  % of all GY6 scoots do NOT have one. I don't. I understand what they do, but why do you think they are needed? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 13, 2015 20:11:42 GMT -5
Here is your tracking # 9400109699939844237006 Thanks again , if there is anything you need in the meantime let me know. Hey - buddies help buddies; no thanks or anything else needed. ESPECIALLY when you have to contend with a daughter whose obsession is kicking your helmet around! ps: on the helmet subject: I realize you have more than enough expenses, but i second Scooter's (JB's?) comment about you needing a new helmet. Imagine Bambi strolling up to say "Hi!" again and when you go flying and hit the helmet just pops into pieces, your head leaves a skid mark on the pavement, and your kids no longer have your hugs to enjoy. Sorry - morbid - but that's really the real situation. I've heard the same thing - if you drop your helmet, let alone crash with it, get a new one. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 13, 2015 7:23:07 GMT -5
Here is your tracking #
9400109699939844237006
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 13, 2015 1:54:40 GMT -5
Good idea to fix as much as possible. HOWEVER (being serious for just a moment) Bondo adheres to polycarb very poorly. After a few bumps it will crack off. Fiberglass is better, but will still fail after a pretty short while. I was afraid to mail the can of acrylic cement thru the mail ... but i found a tube on EBay and bought it for you (shipped directly to you). Don't yet have a shipping confirmation - tomorrow probably. Will send it along as soon as I get it. So it's now - what? Two days after your Close Encounter of the Deer Kind? My guess is the soreness is now pretty well set in and you are more than a little uncomfortable. Hope everything heals up quickly. Thanks buddy , if this variator turns out to be a winner I'll buy you one. Your right about the bondo . now that I think about it I used it on my old fan shroud " my scoot fell over in Walmart parking lot a couple yrs ago and broke the fan shroud " when I finally replaced the shroud I noticed the bondo was separated from the plastic in spots. I'll hold off until the cement arrives. We need to figure out why your scoot can't make the higher rpms . have you ever tried your stock variator ? I forget if you did or not. Yeah, if there is any way to hold off on the plastic repair till this stuff arrives, it would be a good idea. Bondng this kind of plastic is tough and requires a glue that actually melts the molecules together - but if you have the right stuff the bond is at least as strong as original. This is what's on the way  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 13, 2015 0:31:03 GMT -5
I think I'm going to order some 15 and 16 gram roller weights so I can see how my rpms are at that point. If at some point I have full belt travel and I'm still redlining on a straight run , I'll def need to up gear. I haven checked the variator since the crash , so there is a chance I already have full travel but I'm not sure. I was thinking maybe my clutch was slipping but I can tell when it locks in and I highly doubt its slipping at 7000 + rpms but not at 4000 rpms. Get a felt tip and mark that puppy so you can get an accurate idea of how big or little the dead zone still is. But i am just mystified. You are running 24-Hour Fitness dumbbells in your variator, and still hitting 8K RPM. I'm running 9 gr sliders - have tiny 10" wheels, which should REALLY spin the engine - and am lucky to hit 7500 ... and that only on occasion. Wierd |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 13, 2015 0:26:16 GMT -5
The more I think about it , I might only need the fan shroud. I think I can use the epoxy to fix the headlights and most of the other plastic. I can use the bondo and some metal screen to rebuild the front piece of the front fender.that way I'll only need about 20 bucks to fix the damage , since I already have the bondo and metal screen patches. The fan shroud is about 15 bucks and I'll need some epoxy . Good idea to fix as much as possible. HOWEVER (being serious for just a moment) Bondo adheres to polycarb very poorly. After a few bumps it will crack off. Fiberglass is better, but will still fail after a pretty short while. I was afraid to mail the can of acrylic cement thru the mail ... but i found a tube on EBay and bought it for you (shipped directly to you). Don't yet have a shipping confirmation - tomorrow probably. Will send it along as soon as I get it. So it's now - what? Two days after your Close Encounter of the Deer Kind? My guess is the soreness is now pretty well set in and you are more than a little uncomfortable. Hope everything heals up quickly. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 11, 2015 17:39:02 GMT -5
Some of these big cities here in south western pa have some real cool names like ADAH of course , and the next one over is RALPH . sounds like a married couple " Ralph and Adah " lol Thought of something for the future. Friend of mine has one of those really tiny little BMW convertibles, and she is worried about the coyotes that are always running about, esp. at night and in the wooded sections where people tend to drive fast. Not like hitting a Bambi, but they can do some serious damage to car. So she got a pair of these little devices that look like a tiny funnel but are, in fact, air horns. The rushing air causes them to emit a high pitched noise - people can't hear it but supposedly it spooks animals who tend to scatter. Since you live in the wild Siberian region, with Bambi, bear, saber tooth and who knows what else, might be a good idea for you. I think they are only about $20 a pair - mount under where they are invisible, just in the airstream. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 11, 2015 17:31:04 GMT -5
Some of these big cities here in south western pa have some real cool names like ADAH of course , and the next one over is RALPH . sounds like a married couple " Ralph and Adah " lol CLEARLY you are on some pretty heavy duty pain meds! Next thing you will be swearing support for ..... you know who in Wash. D.C. ! (oh boy - I'm in trouble again .....) |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 11, 2015 14:26:07 GMT -5
Thanks man , . the fan scoop took most of of the side damage when it hit the ground , then after it flew off the exhaust must have scraped the ground a little . there are a few scrapes , one on the muffler , the tip is scraped up a little, and the header has a mark on it where it ended up hitting the ground. The front fairing is cracked in two places , but I intend on using some bondo and some metal screen to take care of it. The main parts are the fan shround and the headlights . after I order those I may try to fix the rest with bondo and some screen , except for the front fender . I can just remove the whole front fender " front fender is two pieces " and ride without it. I kind of like the looks of it with out the fender .  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 11, 2015 14:22:12 GMT -5
Thanks man , . the fan scoop took most of of the side damage when it hit the ground , then after it flew off the exhaust must have scraped the ground a little . there are a few scrapes , one on the muffler , the tip is scraped up a little, and the header has a mark on it where it ended up hitting the ground. The front fairing is cracked in two places , but I intend on using some bondo and some metal screen to take care of it. The main parts are the fan shround and the headlights . after I order those I may try to fix the rest with bondo and some screen , except for the front fender . I can just remove the whole front fender " front fender is two pieces " and ride without it. I kind of like the looks of it with out the fender . Might also want to consider gluing the fender back together instead of getting a new piece, which you would have to then paint. And maybe disconnect the turbo, since obviously you are not mature enough to handle that much power safely. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 11, 2015 14:19:21 GMT -5
Thanks man , . the fan scoop took most of of the side damage when it hit the ground , then after it flew off the exhaust must have scraped the ground a little . there are a few scrapes , one on the muffler , the tip is scraped up a little, and the header has a mark on it where it ended up hitting the ground. The front fairing is cracked in two places , but I intend on using some bondo and some metal screen to take care of it. The main parts are the fan shround and the headlights . after I order those I may try to fix the rest with bondo and some screen , except for the front fender . I can just remove the whole front fender " front fender is two pieces " and ride without it. I kind of like the looks of it with out the fender . What in the heck, George  ?/ See, i just am furious when selfish people do these kind of stunts for attention! It's bad enough you completely give yourself over to these self-harm compulsions ... but involving an innocent little Bambi who did nothing to you at all??? That is just evil. BTW: about the cracked plastic. I think you would find Bondo is not very good for this material (polycarb, I think). The absolute best thing to use is a purpose-made acrylics glue:  but it might be difficult to find in the Siberia regions of Adah (there is a plastics supply house here, where I got mine. Wound send it but USPS regs don't permit doing so). This stuff actually melts the [pieces together at the molecular level - as strong as before. If you can't find this stuff ~~~ I've used "Plastic Welder", available at ORielly's, etc., on my fairing and it produces a VERY strong bond. It's a 2-part epoxy that you can glob on the back side to end up with a thick added amount right behind the seam. Seems pretty indestructible also - though I'd go with Acrylic glue if available. Glad you didn't kill yourself, break legs or arms into some unnatural, freakish position, or - most of all - harm Bambi. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 10, 2015 0:42:34 GMT -5
First pic is the koso and old gates Kevlar. Second pic is the new k&s with the new gates Kevlar. U can see the belt travels noticeably higher on the clutch with the k&s . also take in mind the new belt is not even broken in yet and already is riding higher on the clutch , which also means it has to be riding lower in the k&s then the koso. I couldn't tell any noticeable difference in ramp length between the two . here are some pics.  .  [/URL .  I don't think I wrote enough about this k&s variator. Yes I can not varify performance yet , however so far this variator is far above the koso/DLH variators being sold . how much does the weight of the variator come into play ? I'm not sure at this point but considering its 20 to 46 grams lighter then the cheap variators " depending on which koso I compare it to . the more recent the heavier the koso has been . my most recent Koso's have weighed 292 grams which is 46 grams heavier then the K&S . that almost like having an extra set of 8 gram roller weights that just hanging out in the variator all the time , of course the weight is stationary but its still a lot of extra weight. I believe I have just shown that the thinner the variator face is at the boss port , the further down the belt will drop in the variator. My first koso was also like this and the belt dropped fully in it. However the first koso I bought was still heavier then the K&S by about 20 grams. All I can say so far is that the K&S seems to be of much better quality and from a manufacturer who takes pride in the finished product , of course this is the first one I've seen , but so far its good news. I like the fact that this variator actually fits the cvt to spec. Meaning no need for the shims which i look at as something made just incase you get a variator that dosent work the way its suppose to. That's about it so far , next will be the road test. I'm starting off with a 10.5 gram mixture of the K&S roller weights. Nice looking variator! Did you have the chance to do any further measurements before mounting it up. That's a hard thing to do - when we get stuff we want to go out right away and see how it works! Looks like there is almost ZERO inner "dead zone". I also like the trim boss part of the casting. Would be nice to have some measurements of that! Can't wait to hear the results. Why rollers instead of sliders. I thought "the science was settled" about the advantages of rollers ... And why on earth are you running the belt BACKWARDS (top photo, old variator)? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 9, 2015 16:29:52 GMT -5
I'll post pics to show if the belt drops fully in the variator or not. I'm expecting it to. PRETTY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 9, 2015 16:15:18 GMT -5
I would contact whoever you bought it from, ask for a part number, and if they carry the part(s) you need. Tried that w/o success. In fact, a number of online people sell this thing, but none seem to know anything about parts for it. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Apr 9, 2015 13:36:08 GMT -5
Hey rcq , was that the dlh variator you posted in comparison to the k&s ? If so that explains the difference from the pic I just posted of the koso. I was thinking the dlh and the Koso's being sold were just about identical , but the more we inspect them the more differences we find. Yep, that was el cheapo |
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% of all GY6 scoots do NOT have one. I don't. I understand what they do, but why do you think they are needed?
[/URL . 
