|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 27, 2015 19:57:06 GMT -5
I have a stereo on mine and, like you said, with all the engine and wind noise, especially with a full face helmet on, you can't hear it very well without blasting it. I got a bluetooth helmet that plays music from my phone. It's pretty sweet and has FM radio too. It added $100 to the price of the helmet, but I just tell myself that, even if it only lasted a year, that's only 27 cents per day.  TWENTY SEVEN CENTS !!!!!!!!!!! That's a full gallon of gas - a fillup! Or has that price gone higher? Riding a gas sipping scooter it's been so long since I've visited a gas station ..... HAHA! Good one! Sadly, my scooting is not so cheap after adding on insurance for my body. After my wreck and about 10k in medical bills, thank goodness covered by the other driver's insurance, (and it was a relatively minor injury) I decided I need injury protection for myself. That added almost 800 dollars a year to my scooting bill on top of what I was paying to protect the bike. I figure a small truck with the same coverage will cost just a little more per year in gas and insurance for my daily commute, plus holds two or three people, is faster and more reliable, has heat and a/c, and more crash protection, and you can haul stuff in it. Owning a bike is excellent but it certainly isn't cheap if someone does something stupid and wrecks you. I am going to keep my bike for now but there may come a time when it's too expensive to keep it AND another vehicle going at the same time and still mitigate my risk. Imagine what the bills would have been for broken bones or damaged internal organs. Yikes. That wreck was a harsh reality check. I learned three things from it, always wear a helmet, keep insurance on you and your bike, and never think you can outsmart a dumb driver. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 27, 2015 19:47:39 GMT -5
I have a stereo on mine and, like you said, with all the engine and wind noise, especially with a full face helmet on, you can't hear it very well without blasting it. I got a bluetooth helmet that plays music from my phone. It's pretty sweet and has FM radio too. It added $100 to the price of the helmet, but I just tell myself that, even if it only lasted a year, that's only 27 cents per day. That's def the way to go ! I can probably find a bluetooth setup for my helmet. Ebay has several available. I opted for a built in one, but I think you can get more functionality out of the add on ones plus you can use them with multiple helmets. Mine is a Blinc module and lacks several key features like pause, prev and next song, etc. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 27, 2015 18:25:35 GMT -5
I once hooked up a small 100watt amp that ran two 4 inch speakers . I had it hooked up so I could run an mp3 player through the amp , but my engine was too loud and I could not hear the music that good " especially with my helmet on " , so I disconnected everything. I have a stereo on mine and, like you said, with all the engine and wind noise, especially with a full face helmet on, you can't hear it very well without blasting it. I got a bluetooth helmet that plays music from my phone. It's pretty sweet and has FM radio too. It added $100 to the price of the helmet, but I just tell myself that, even if it only lasted a year, that's only 27 cents per day. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 21, 2015 22:28:53 GMT -5
Just when you thought you'd seen it all. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 21, 2015 22:27:56 GMT -5
We may have to have a best smell contest. There is alot of people just like us man!! I bet they like the smell of HF too.....lol ROTFLMAO when that chic smelled that 250 her hair blew back,,the one dewd with the stub was rubbing it into his hair...lmao!! Too funny at 1:56 |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 21, 2015 8:28:28 GMT -5
QUESTION , I was thinking about using my old koso variator and filling in the groves on the guide rails with jb weld . does anyone think the jb weld would hold up ? The plastic v-slides slide up and down the rails so I'm thinking of the jb weld may hold up . You could take it to a tig welder and let them fill it. It could heat warp your variator but it's a small area so it might be fine. Some plastics are very abrasive and can eat into steel quickly with friction. You can try the JB Weld, and keep an eye on it, but if it breaks off in your variator it may cause trouble. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 21, 2015 6:54:36 GMT -5
The way to compare the heights of the two variators is to put each on on the same back plate, with the same rollers, and measure the two heights. I believe the roller pulley will sit on the rollers, not the back of the pulley. Putting in shims will drop the belt on every level, so yes, your pulley will be further apart on the bottom and on the top end. I would not worry about the drive teeth when adding a small amount of shims. We are talking about a few thousandths of an inch. As I recall, the belt will drop approximately double the thickness of the shims, so if you put in .020 of shims, your belt will drop .040 on the pulleys. In order to change the width on the bottom, but keep the same width on the top, you'd have to change the angle of the pulleys by a fraction of a degree. I had the same problem, of having to drastically reduce my roller weights when putting in a new variator, a KOSO from ebay as I recall. Your 100%,correct about measuring the variator with the back plate and rollers in . I'll do that in a little while and post the pics. When it comes to belt travel with shims in , I think it all depends . because if the clutch opens fully then the belt should still have the same amount of slack , and the variator has no travel limitations on the boss. I also think the rollers should have more room to push the variator open a little further considering I think its the clutch pulley stopping the belt from climbing any further if opened completely. What you say makes sense if the variator pulleys are touching in the middle. Maybe you could look in there while revving the engine to see if that's the case. If it was already opening fully, with the rollers all the way out to the edge, then it would make sense that, with shims in, its fully open position would be a little farther apart than it was before. I tried .040 of shims on another variator and increased my low end torque, but I lost a few mph off the top end. I wasn't having any rev issues though. The bike was maxing out rpm either way. The exception is when you have low rpms at top speed, where your engine can't fully rev to max RPMs, then you should see a gain in top speed by using shims, or at least no loss, while still increasing low end torque. If you don't want to use shims, your only reasonable option would be to shave the face of the pulley. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 21, 2015 1:32:37 GMT -5
I should add that my broken v-slides were not caused by the new koso . and I do have a question . if u would use a spacer would the belt still climb as high on the variator as before the spacer . I would expect yes but not sure . also one plus would be if I use a spacer and get the belt to drop fully I should have even better takeoff due to the lighter roller weights , but then again will the heavier variator come into play ? The way to compare the heights of the two variators is to put each on on the same back plate, with the same rollers, and measure the two heights. I believe the roller pulley will sit on the rollers, not the back of the pulley. Putting in shims will drop the belt on every level, so yes, your pulley will be further apart on the bottom and on the top end. I would not worry about the drive teeth when adding a small amount of shims. We are talking about a few thousandths of an inch. As I recall, the belt will drop approximately double the thickness of the shims, so if you put in .020 of shims, your belt will drop .040 on the pulleys. In order to change the width on the bottom, but keep the same width on the top, you'd have to change the angle of the pulleys by a fraction of a degree. I had the same problem, of having to drastically reduce my roller weights when putting in a new variator, a KOSO from ebay as I recall. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 17, 2015 16:48:00 GMT -5
When someone says I can do something IF I wear a helmet, I'm thinking I am heading for unsafe territory. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 17, 2015 16:22:54 GMT -5
Was I correct that the two top screws are the only hardware to open the reservoir? yes, i had same problem when i changed the fluid on my old atm50. i used vise grips clamped on a short screwdriver. it gave me the leverage i needed to turn while put all my weight on it. I find an impact wrench is a great help in removing small tight screws. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 13, 2015 16:43:03 GMT -5
Is gyroscopic precession going to be a problem with that setup? I'm hoping the planar springs will smooth the transition out. What's needed is linkage that can use torque induced precession to mimic counter steering. Bandito mentioned the need for being able to turn the entire gyro around its axle. Wouldn't that be necessary? Just a gyro in a flat plane wouldn't give you what you need would it? Can you show us a drawing of what you have in mind? I have arduino stuff that might be able to control the system but if you have a glitch it could be catastrophic. Maybe do like the Segways and have dual controllers for backup. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 12, 2015 22:12:06 GMT -5
I'll be keeping it low tech, but in the end it's the same thing, I just have to read values instead of having the computer translate for me. An O2 sensor puts out a certain amount of voltage based on the amount of residual oxygen left in the exhaust stream. All that's needed is a volt meter to read the voltage, that's what I'll mount to take readings while riding visually. I think those O2 sensors do zero to one volt. Not sure. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 12, 2015 22:06:06 GMT -5
I was thinking planar springs with a simple horizontal wedge driven assembly with connecting rods mounted forward of the front axle. This would tilt the assembly the opposite direction the wheel is turned, forcing the lean with the gyro's power. The planar springs would allow for wobble compensation. Not as high tech as these models, but I'm trying to keep it lower tech, less to fail. Is gyroscopic precession going to be a problem with that setup? |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 11, 2015 17:59:51 GMT -5
Hopefully my next plans are to find the cheapest safe solution for the wiring and while i have it apart. paint what ever i can paint. Change all fluids and improve any performance i can afford. I would love any suggestions or help you can provide on ways to improve this scooter in any way. Apologies for any grammatical issues and I appreciate you reading this far! I would think having all of your ground wires together would be fine, but there may be a lot of current flowing from the "star" to the battery, so the wire from the grounds to the battery should probably be fairly big. Perhaps you could use a wire big enough to handle the maximum amperage your stator or regulator puts out. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Feb 11, 2015 17:45:46 GMT -5
Finally Getting back to it. A cold winter and new bike were no Excuse!! Also picked up this little guy.  I like your photo, Jarrett. Is that a long exposure and a flashlight or some photoshop work? |
|
