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If its severely clogged then use more first then remove the jets later than clean em and have the SeaFoam send crud afterwards . With any additive , especially a solvent , always try a lil bit at first as you can easily use more later and avoid the oh darns if you used too much of something .

Yes if your carb is not sealed and you can adjust the air screw to richen it may clear it up . If it helps but not enough than a slight larger idle jet may work

So I am guessing its a 50 , is it a 2T or 4T ? On my 2T that was stock and already upjetted to a 75 MJ I bought a Uni vent cover NOT the big red air filter , put in a MJ with stock exhaust . Wow it had more low end power and midrange pep but was louder with the increased air flow being sucked in . I rode it for 2 or 3 months without a glitch . Well I bought the proper Uni filter , my scooter dealer did not have any jets larger than nor did the local motorcycle shops . I put it on any ways just to test it . It started up fine and only had a very slight bog sound but no hesitation . Well ( CENSORED !!!!!!!) I barely went a quarter of mile , just around the block and it seized up on me . Would not restart so I pushed it home . Checked the gas and oil they were full . Pulled the plug and it melted off the prong . I have never in my life had this happen . Tried to start it after it cooled no luck . Pulled the engine and the piston and cylinder were grooved and rings looked DOA .

I bought a 47mm BBK , a HP pipe , first tested the small Uni vent cover and it did not run right . Put on the red one and it was better but I had too large of a main jet . Went with a 120 and it ran fine as a 130 and 140 would spit gas out of the Uni and 120 did not . I just put in a 105 as I want to reuse the airbox so I can ride in the rain and stock pipe as the new one is so loud it makes my ears ring @wot sounding like a lumberjack chainsaw and MX bike blend

When I first started messing with small engines I was told by shops and riders that NGK is the only brand to use . Years later when I had a Honda CR125 I would have to clean the plug with carb spray , scrub the electrode with sandpaper folded over and regap every 3 months or so . A trail buddy told me about the iridium and synthetic 2t oil as I used cheap junk . So I went to a MC shop and bought one along with Bel Ray MC1 2T oil . First thing I noticed the electrode was much smaller in size . It fired right up and I never had a oil fouled no start or fizzle like I would get since I premixed heavy . The synthetic 2T only smokes at start up where weedeater stuff left a com trail .

I used Bosch Platinum in my Honda cars along with Bosch wires as AutoZone wires sucked and they worked great . A buddy tried the Bosch Platinum in his Camaro and it was not as good as before . So we got some GMDelco standard plugs and darned it they worked better .

I have the same NGK iridium in my Echarm before I left the dealership and it has over 16k miles on it and starts up instantly .

Iridium is a semiconductor which means it has less resistance than a conductor like copper and it also has better flow of electricity . If you notice the video and others the standard plug the arc flows around where the iridium keeps the same arc flow . An iridium will not wake up a sleeping monster in your scooter , but it will start , run better and outlast a standard type

Be gentle at first and try to ride in the midrange while going up and down on the throttle to do a midrange break in . This is how I do mine rather than a hard break in like some do . My Echarm has over 16k miles and does not leak nor use any oil .

I used a MJ on my 50mm BBK with airbox and stock pipe

Stock gears but with 130/60/13s as I think you have 12s . Did you use 5g before and after ? What was the RPMs at 50 MPH with both gear sets ? Mine has always been midrange and top end as I have the larger JOG variator with 21mm nut but 10mm wristpins . I bought another MODCycles 47mm BBK as my dealer had one in stock . I have what I thought was their pipe but paperwork said it was from www.pmtunning.co.uk and is unrestricted with less back pressure and takeoff , loud as lumberjacks chainsaw but hits 10,500 where with stock pipe and 49cc it maxed at 8k on my tach . 8gs is too heavy as I push off with my feet when starting up a slope from a standstill but once rolling it zooms but not as peppy at midrange as with 5g rollers which I could pop a wheelie at 50 MPH with a lil tugging back . What sux is I can redline on level road and even some hills with a long running start with most steep hills still hitting 9k . So its like it is under driven but I cringe at the thought of a 400 dollar Malossi over drive CVT kit . I too want to cruise at 50 MPH without it screaming and guzzling gas . I did use a 120 MJ but went to a 105 and I want to put the airbox back on since the Uni is louder and no good to have in the rain , and may have to bend the stock pipe to reuse it as my new pipe would not line up when it was 49cc but fir like a glove with the BBK

I also put on a 788 Bando since the Gates has 4k miles on it and still looks almost new to be safe but darn it Bandos have a vibration between midrange and top end on both of my scooters . unsure if Kevlar or Armarid fiber but I will be going back to a Gates for my 2T and CFMoto belt ( sux it costs more but was smooth ) .

A buddies 2T Honda Elie can holeshot me for a short distance , plus I am 60 lbs heavier , but no comp from 25 and up . I can do 45 MPH up most hills with a running start and 40 when it was stock as I have passed cars up hill in the city .

Too bad scooters do not have a 2 speed transfer case like my buddies Polaris ATVs do . Would be great to switch from redlight racer to highway cruiser

For faster take off try 1k , 1.5k or 2k clutch springs . These engage at their rated RPM that much above stock springs , like a stall convertor in a car with an auto tranny . Gearing has a lot to do with it too . A buddy has a 2T Elite and its instantly takes off like a forklift but peaks at 20 MPH then slows down where my Magnum has never been a fast take off with the 90cc variator and 13 inch wheels vs 10s but has way more midrange and top end .

My TaoTao 4T had 8 gram rollers and I went down to 5 g rollers since it very hilly here , take off and uphill was better with the same top end just more RPMs . My 2T had 6 gram rollers , I tried 4g was too light as it sounded like it would over rev on takeoff and lost top end as it had a RPM restriction when stock . I mixed them up to equal 5 grams and liked it . With a BBK and pipe 5g was too light as I could redline uphill so I tried 8g Dr Pulley sliders with Hoca 1.5k clutch springs and a Hoca BB torque spring base . I bought a 1.5k torque spring but could not compress it with the BB spring base so I put the stock back in as it never had any problems going uphill . Well takeoff is slower as I push off with my feet when going up a grade from a standing still , but has great power from 25 up to top speed but I can still hit 9k up many hills with a rolling start . This is a 2T that now hits 10,500 . So heavy weights and short gears are not the answer as I will have to get lighter sliders and taller gears as it guzzles up gas with it screaming compared to when it was stock .

I also replaced the 12.2 rollers with 12 Dr Pulley sliders and wow it has a better acceleration at all times with a 5 MPH top end gain . My scooter dealer with a scooter with the same engine as mine uses 14g sliders and would hit 75 MPH too just not get there as fast . I love out running cars from takeoff and while cruising on my CFMoto Echarm . I have had 5 people follow me into a gas station and offer to buy it from me . Sliders push the belt out more than rollers , last longer , are quiet as rollers rattle when they develop flat spots from wear as mine started to at 5,500 miles . I replaced the belt at 12k and the variator glides as they had some wear but the sliders were barely worn . With the Hoca BB torque spring and sliders in my 2T it really sounds like I have a car auto tranny that has many gears compared to before and it also prevents the torque spring from binding ..

You may opt to get a roller kit with several weights to test as .5g will make a diff . These are softer than normal and intended for testing rather than long term use like this www.enviromoto.ecrater.com/p/14177743/prima-roller-weight-kit-16-x-13 find a weight that works best then get 1g lighter in sliders .

The 1.5clutch springs seem to help but you may like 1k springs as 2k may have you popping wheelies and wear out the belt faster