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Post by tvnacman on Dec 14, 2015 15:57:34 GMT -5
looks like its getting hot, here is where it gets tricky. You need the proper load to check the voltage. That means you need a good bulb lit while your checking the voltage. Post a pic of your meter and I can tell you the details on how to get a reading.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 13, 2015 18:10:58 GMT -5
crank case pressure will push oil from the dipstick hole. Its 4 bolts on the4 valve cover , I would check the valves while I'm there.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 10, 2015 21:11:05 GMT -5
compression test it
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 10, 2015 18:45:42 GMT -5
did you squirt some fuel in?
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 9, 2015 10:27:09 GMT -5
The idea is to bypass the carb. Anywhere you can get 1/2 ounce of fuel in.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 9, 2015 8:32:30 GMT -5
pull a vac line , inject some fuel in it and see if it starts .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 8, 2015 4:29:00 GMT -5
Thanks for the advice, I may try that next time.., but it was good practice working on it anyway.  The only thing to remember : when u reinstall the side cover , the swingarm will be loose and the front of it will be on the ground . if you install the side cover with the swingarm still on the ground , you will not be able to raise it back into place because it will hit the bottom of the dipstick port . you must hold it up while putting the cover in place. I did this a few times and had to take the cover back off . it ssucks having to take all the bolts back out and having to pull the flywheel because you forget this , lol. I would have pulled the swing arm off then repositioned it into place. Just my .02 John |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 6, 2015 21:02:22 GMT -5
I was referring only to the drive face . most refer to the outer part of the variator assembly as the drive face. Many do not realize that the stock drive face is 115 and buy a new one separately from the new 115 variator. Some assemblies come with a new drive face , but actually I the stock one will work just fine with a high performance 115 variator. Agreed John |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 6, 2015 10:41:33 GMT -5
I would bypass all the emissions and see if it will run. sometimes they can be the cause of problems. Then you can figure out where the problem is.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 5, 2015 17:23:36 GMT -5
whats the engine number?
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 5, 2015 16:45:58 GMT -5
Sorry for your loss
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 5, 2015 7:03:02 GMT -5
I think most do not realize that the stock drive faces are 115mm Yes the outer pulley is 115mm the stock inner in 107mm, the larger pulley and different angle ramps is the difference. here is a link you should read it may bring some insight to your decision, scooterdoc.proboards.com/thread/11542/#ixzz3mIqFApF0John |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 5, 2015 5:54:30 GMT -5
JerryScript I had a short run in TV repair from  -04 in 03 the price dropped.. The warranty and failure just past it , I guess your thinking planed obsolescence. They did that with light bulbs. I had a video. John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 4, 2015 7:34:47 GMT -5
electrolytics and solder joints made by machine were the norm in TV repair prior to flat panel.
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 1, 2015 20:34:05 GMT -5
Very nice video. I admit I was unsure where you were going with it. I suspect the sand is for dissipating heat. When I was testing regulators one of them was loose in the metal body. The regulator tested good but I tore it opened anyway It had the very fine sand. I would like to replace the variable timing cdi you used for your experiment The NYCSP0007 . I'm unsure how you ordered it please let me know. Were there any other items you were interested in dissecting?
John
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-04 in 03 the price dropped.. The warranty and failure just past it , I guess your thinking planed obsolescence. They did that with light bulbs. I had a video.