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Post by phatboy on Jun 4, 2015 1:58:13 GMT -5
Usually when this question is asked it's so they can register a bigger engined bike as a moped or not license at all depending on your local laws and ride without an endorsement (or without a license at all, depending on laws) Some might have issues with this but in all honesty we talk about BBKs all the time which is essentially doing the same thing, the bike is no longer technically "legal" in that case either.
I've seen some conversions done and in my opinion many look ridiculous because the 150cc case is longer, usually 12"+ wheels instead of 10", and you may have to mount it back for clearance too, so you have this rear tire sticking out back way past the fender. Only looks OK in a Ruckus.
So I think your best bet if you want to go 150cc on a 49cc chassis is find a bike that came with 49cc and 150cc versions of the same thing, buy the 49cc bike then find yourself a 150cc parts scooter and put it all together. I had a Kymco 49cc that had a 125cc version of the same bike, I was tempted to do the same but instead i just got my endorsement, better that way anyway.
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Post by phatboy on Jun 2, 2015 1:56:49 GMT -5
These don't even use a quart of oil, and no filter. It's so cheap and easy to do. I think I changed mine around 70 and again around 300.
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Post by phatboy on May 31, 2015 2:28:55 GMT -5
I actually put the piston into the cylinder while I was sitting at the dining room table, then took the piston/cylinder into the garage and left the bottom of the piston poking out just enough to get the wrist pin through it and onto the rod. was easier than kneeling over a scoot trying to do it.
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Post by phatboy on May 31, 2015 2:23:27 GMT -5
I think I got mine from ebay user 02starrider, it was probably a Chinese deal but it is still working great years later. Mine was for a 139QMB but looks like he has 157QMJ cams too.
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Post by phatboy on May 30, 2015 4:16:34 GMT -5
I had no problem compressing the rings with my fingers while I slid the piston in the cylinder, just compress each individual ring and carefully work it in.
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Post by phatboy on May 29, 2015 21:21:03 GMT -5
Subaru first offered a CVT back in the 80s, and they offer them in cars today. If anyone can do it right I think they can.
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Post by phatboy on May 29, 2015 17:40:27 GMT -5
Quality parts are always a better idea... but I did just fine with the cheap parts.
I decided, first off, to go 72cc and not 85cc like you did, and decided to JUST use a cylinder and piston only. Due to that I did not have to pay that much, as I reused the stock head, valves, oil pump, chain, etc. I did fit an A9 cam later and it worked great with the stock head and valves.
I figured smaller displacement means thicker cylinder wall, less stress on the stock parts, etc, and using as many stock parts as I could will make it more reliable, because stock parts are probably better quality than cheap aftermarket, and would probably last longer than 85cc kit on the crank too.
For jetting I used a micro drill kit, just went one step wider at a time until I hit a sweet spot, I did drill out the air box and exhaust though.
Although I did sell the scoot after a year to get a 150cc, I sold to someone I know and the scoot is still going strong over 2 years later, ridden daily and running just as good as the day I sold it.
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Post by phatboy on May 29, 2015 16:56:40 GMT -5
Scoots have different considerations for cams, as the CVT keeps the RPMs pretty much constant for a given load, while it does vary, it doesn't vary to the point where a low end cam would really help, in my opinion. I think a low end cam would be better for an ATV or something with chain driven, not a CVT.
The A9 helped everything across the board. Helped with acceleration at all throttle positions, overall drivability, even cruising and off the line power, there was no downside. I installed lighter rollers so the CVT would run about 7500, it was pretty much constant 7500 at WOT from 0 to near top speed, only at near top speed did RPMs climb above. It helped the top speed by 6 MPH due to the cam's slower dropoff in power on the top end. If you are taking the scoot on the freeway the A9 is the way to go.
Only considerations for the A9 was a decrease in gas mileage and a little more valve noise when warm. It wasn't enough to worry about.
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Post by phatboy on May 29, 2015 1:49:49 GMT -5
I found the same chart when researching cams. I had a 49cc, but it seemed A9 cams were far more common and cheaper than any other cam, and tried and true.
I went with A9 and it was a very good performer, I also installed lighter rollers to take advantage of A9's higher powerband. If that chart is true, A9 outperforms A11 on the top end. It is very close to A11 anyway, you probably wouldn't notice much difference though.
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Post by phatboy on May 26, 2015 18:46:31 GMT -5
I have a new one on the way from China. USA sourced ones were twice the price and probably also from China anyway. I can wait for it to get here, but would still like to modify it to flow freely all the time to ride the scoot in the meantime.
This is the kind that screws onto the tank, however, research indicates that the threads are different from manual motorcycle petcocks, though I can't verify that. Don't think I really want a maunal valve anyway though.
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Post by phatboy on May 26, 2015 1:47:24 GMT -5
2-stroke 49cc scoot.
My vacuum fuel valve failed in a stuck position, and partially open, whether running or not you get a slow dribble of fuel out of the tank, it is enough that the scoot can idle but if you try to ride, it will starve for fuel a couple blocks down the street and won't start again until you let the float bowl fill back up.
So, first question, is the fuel valve serviceable, that is can you crack it open and either gut it (so fuel flows freely and at least I can ride the scoot until a new one gets here) or attempt a repair of diaphragm or seals or other parts inside?
Second question, are the threads on fuel valves standard for scooters, so I can order a replacement?
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Post by phatboy on May 22, 2015 1:22:02 GMT -5
Honestly, I would convert the scooter to AC. I had a scooter with a DC CDI and if the battery got low enough, you could not even kick start it to get home. I had to get a jump start for my scoot which just seems wrong if it has a kick starter! I am pretty sure the AC CDIs don't have that problem.
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Post by phatboy on May 18, 2015 13:49:29 GMT -5
If you have silicone chunks in your engine, I doubt they are from the valve cover gasket, that is low pressure and as long as it was cured before you ran the motor it should stay in place. I would guess any chunks you see are from the oil pump gasket, or if there is another high pressure area. For this reason I never use silicone on high pressure oil gaskets anymore.
I once used silicone on an oil pump gasket and it seized 2 weeks later, I took it apart and I found silicone clogging up the oil jacket in the cam, just softening up the silicone is not going to get it out of there. If it's in the cam it's in the rod and main bearing too.
Gas and other chemicals just soften up the silicone, nothing I know of dissolves it except maybe acid. The only way you are getting it all out is to split your case and clean everything up. Personally I junked my motor and got a used one. There are enough cheap scoots out there with no title that I'm sure you can find something.
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Post by phatboy on May 1, 2015 1:13:48 GMT -5
I recently got a 2T scooter and used a multipurpose 2-stroke oil in it, that I had for my 2-stroke generator. It says it works for premix or injection. Problem is this oil is really smoky and has an obnoxious smell like a car with bad rings, and it permeates my clothes and hair and the smell doesn't go away for hours.
I have been reading about castor oils that don't smell bad and found one that you can use in your injection tank called Blendzall 455, anyone ran this in a scoot and how did it go?
For that matter anyone ran any kind of castor oil in a 2T scoot?
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Post by phatboy on Apr 29, 2015 1:02:33 GMT -5
When I was tuning a bbk, I bought a few jets but they weren't quite right so I just bought a micro drill bit set. The bits attached to my dremel with a chuck that came with it. It couldn't be easier to tune that way, I just kept drilling out one bit larger and ran each one until I found the ideal size.
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