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Post by phatboy on Apr 11, 2016 21:29:59 GMT -5
I might have found the problem, my pod filter was split just like this one: www.scootercentral.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4716The problem was the hose clamp was too big, it would squeeze the tube and the lip on the carb cut into it. I need to find one of the single wire spring clamp, or a very thin screw clamp. I am ordering a new pod filter and will try again from scratch. |
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Post by phatboy on Apr 7, 2016 18:01:45 GMT -5
OK, pulled the plug again after ~20 miles with a new setup and it's brown now, a darker shade of brown. I'm thinking rich, but not excessively? Here is the plug  I still get a bog that gets worse as the bike is hotter. If I have an extended hill climb where I need to go WOT, it will be fine at first but start to lose power after a block or two, and slow down a lot and won't get power back unless I stop and let the bike idle at the side of the road for a minute. However, on flat ground the top speed is good and does not lose power on a long WOT run. |
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Post by phatboy on Apr 5, 2016 1:20:49 GMT -5
I have a new variator, clutch and belt. There is nothing wrong with the old parts, and still have them, but new parts are for performance and I'm hoping to get better top end out of them.
So after 15 miles, I took off the variator cover today, I smelled a rubbery sort of smell and found a strip of rubber powder along the inside of the case where the new belt has shed it. It wasn't a ton, but definitely a noticeable black strip and definitely could smell it. The inside of the case was cleaned out before it was all installed.
Just wondering if this is normal wear for a new belt breaking in, or if I might have a problem with the new variator or clutch surfaces, or something else.
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Post by phatboy on Apr 4, 2016 20:38:11 GMT -5
Thanks, good to know on chrcoal gray spark plug. I thought it was still lean.
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Post by phatboy on Feb 25, 2016 1:37:21 GMT -5
OK, so our benefactor on DansGarageTalk- Dan Martin - urged me, when he was building SuperEngine, to get am air/fuel mixture system so I could tune without the guesswork. But the system was very pricey. So here is a VERY low cost yet VERY good system anyone can add.  COST: O2 Sensor ...... $ FREE (see below) O2 Sensor Bung ..... $2.  includes shipping Welding bung to Muffler ...... ?? (cost me $10) Wiring ........ $ more or less free Gauge ....... $12.19 includes shipping TOTAL: $25.19 plus the wire Bung: www.ebay.com/itm/160855809633?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITSensor: www.ebay.com/itm/171914557669?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITHow it works: The O2 sensor sits in the muffler and reacts to the oxygen content of the exhaust gas. The output of the sensor is a voltage .... 0.2 volts is a very lean condition, 0.8 volts very rich. A perfect combustion gives about 0.45 volts. So, all you need do is read the voltage of the sensor to know exactly how your carburetor is set up. You can actually do this with a simply voltmeter ... but with a nice, fancy gauge only costing $12 it's silly to not get one that interprets the output for you and tells you "lean" or "rich" instead of raw voltage. O2 Sensor: Use an old (no good) sensor from your car; it will probably be fine. In your car the computer corrects the injector duty cycle every 10th of a second or so, using the output of the O2 sensor to know if to inject more or less fuel. Thus, the O2 sensor must react QUICKLY to changes ... and over time loses it's ability to do so and your car will not pass smog. In our scooter we do not care about this reaction speed - an O2 sensor that reacts in a 1/2 second, or even a second, is fine. So - keep your rejected car O2 sensor (or get one from a junk yard) ... as long as the heater circuit is not shot the thing will be fine. Note: do NOT use a "wideband" sensor as it's output is different and cheap gauges will not interpret the output correctly.  Wiring: There are TWO circuits in the O2 sensor: a heater and the circuit for output voltage. The heater circuit just needs to be wired to +12v and ground when the key is on. The sensor output just needs to be wired to the gauge input and ground. So, really only 3 wires: +12v (ignition); sensor-to-gauge; common ground for the heater and sensor output. The gauge similarly needs to be powered by +12v and ground, and have it's sensor input wire hooked up to the O2 sensor output voltage wire. Simple. Here is a short video of it showing air/fuel mixture as the throttle is opened and closed. It shows I have a VERRRY lean idle setup, and a slightly rich main jet setup: View My Video (who knows why TinyPic flipped the video upside down. The file below does not have this problem) View My VideoFound this post by searching. I had the idea to rig up an O2 sensor and gauge to tune my scoot instead of guessing on rich and lean, and decided to first see if anyone had done it before... of course someone had. Do you really need an O2 with heater, is an unheated one OK? Did you drill into the muffler, or the exhaust pipe leading to it? I was actually just thinking of strapping a multimeter to the scooter and looking for the right voltages, and plugging up the O2 bung once it's tuned right, though the gauge is a neat idea. I don't know where I'd mount it though. |
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Post by phatboy on Feb 13, 2016 2:58:33 GMT -5
Hmm, if the hose is good the black stuff must be from something else, though any other source is upstream of the fuel filter. Could be that 150 microns isn't enough or there is just so many fine particles getting through it's causing problems.
I will clean out the carb again and try to polish up the needle and seat, and put in a better fuel filter, a clear one so I can see what it catches. Looks like the clear inline filters are usually around 75 micron.
I have new fuel line on order just in case, clear so I can see sediment in it. Also going to try threading a manual fuel valve for a motorcycle directly on the tank, I found one that supposedly has the same threads.
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Post by phatboy on Feb 11, 2016 15:36:46 GMT -5
Hmm, maybe I got an old hose. Plus I was wrong, I found the packaging from the hose and apparently I actually bought this very similar one www.lowes.com/pd_526356-442-490-240-0009_0__?productId=50056447It does not say made in usa, it says "COO USA" on the package which I think means country of origin. Not sure if that means "made in USA" or just packed in USA. I cut with a razor blade so should be clean cuts. Still seems like it should be OK but just to be sure I am replacing it all. |
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Post by phatboy on Feb 11, 2016 2:29:25 GMT -5
original china hose is long gone, it had some hack job by the previous owner when I got it, thus the new fuel line I bought from lowes. It was made for a riding lawn mower but I thought it would work, guess I was wrong
The new fuel line must be cheap china stuff? screw it, I am going to start over from scratch, ordering some of that translucent fuel line and going to be done with this I hope.
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Post by phatboy on Feb 10, 2016 23:37:35 GMT -5
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Post by phatboy on Feb 9, 2016 3:09:13 GMT -5
both my carbs are metal to metal, had them both apart and it's a steel needle and brass seat, no rubber inserts or anything. I'd never seen this combination before, seems like a really bad design to me, but apparently some people have no problem with this kind at all. I guess metal to metal would be good for ethanol gas though
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Post by phatboy on Feb 8, 2016 18:13:13 GMT -5
I have a manual petcock, I gutted vacuum one to always flow when it went bad and could not find a replacement that fit, then plugged the vacuum line. it will eventually stop dripping out when I turn off the gas. but if everything is working right it should not drip at all. Turning off fuel just limits how much leaks out.
I pulled off the float bowl today and yep, it has a metal tipped float valve just like the chinese one that leaked. So probably something to do with that.
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Post by phatboy on Feb 8, 2016 16:06:37 GMT -5
By city ordinance all gas here has ethanol, I don't like it but its not practical to have to refuel outside the city.
The new chinese carb worked great but started leaking after a few weeks, it had a metal tipped float needle, and I think a brass seat. Couldn't get this one to ever seal properly again once it started leaking. I need to open up the mikuni and see what it has.
Both the new chinese and the new Mikuni leaked out the drain tube I'm pretty sure it was from fuel going out the overflow tube in the bowl, and the problem wasn't the drain screw.
I wonder if those metal tipped float valves are more sensitive to debris. The original carb that came on the scoot never worked right but also never leaked a drop and it had either viton or rubberized float valve (not metal.)
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Post by phatboy on Feb 8, 2016 6:18:28 GMT -5
I just bought a new Mikuni carb, wanted something higher quality than the chinese carbs, because my last chinese carb I bought new overflowed from the float after a couple of weeks and no amount of cleaning the float valve and its seat would stop the leak.
Problem is this new Minuki is doing the exact same thing now, though leaking slow about one drip a minute, it's still leaving a pool on my garage floor in the morning.
Trying to figure out what is going on, I thought maybe the fuel filter, it's for a Briggs riding lawn mower, figured it would be fine for a scooter, I looked and it's 150 micron, and standard fuel filters for scooters are hard to figure out but looks in the range 50-100 micron. Just wondering if 150 micron is enough to keep the float valve from sealing. Or if I just got unlucky with 2 bad float needles in a row.
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Post by phatboy on Feb 6, 2016 5:27:47 GMT -5
OK put on the pod. I also bought a set of jets, 75, 80,  ,  , 9 5 It's got a bog at WOT off the line though, and I went all the way up to 9 5 in it and still bogging. I listened to rich bog sounds and it sounds more like a lean bog if anything. WOT off the line it moves slow at first then it revs up and more power kicks in. However, I pulled the plug after a 20 min ride with lots of WOT runs and it does not seem lean, but looking somewhat rich, not black but kind of a charcoal gray. So assuming it is not running lean, what else could make it sluggish off the line, then rev up and go after 10-15 feet. Variator or clutch maybe? |
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Post by phatboy on Feb 4, 2016 1:12:39 GMT -5
It hit right in the middle of a tread then ran down between the treads . The area where it ran onto does seem swollen now that you mention it, I let it dry for a few hours and seems a little less swollen but not a lot
The tire is several years old but only about 1000 miles on it and good tread, weather here has been 40s-50s and humid the past few days
I guess that means you'd get a new tire but do you think its safe to ride until the new tire gets here?
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includes shipping
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, 95