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Post by william42 on Apr 26, 2014 12:46:54 GMT -5
So I'm getting 12 volts at the battery at idle and 18 volts with rpm's. I confirmed that the battery is fully charged. I got to the regulator and the bolts are tight and the plug is in all the way. I didn't see anything else wrong either. Voltage regulator then?
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Post by william42 on Apr 26, 2014 8:15:43 GMT -5
Thanks for the reply Joshua. I did some research on voltage regulators and have a good idea what to look for so I'm about to go do some tests. Being that my scooter is at work, yesterday I started her up and the voltage was hovering around 14 volts at the meter (with the new headlight installed) but then as I was watching the gauge I noticed that my instrument cluster light got really bright and the voltage went way up to 16 volts again. This all happened in about five seconds of starting it. Maybe I just have a bad or loose ground or the wire harness plug is loose or something simple like that. I guess I'll know more in a few hours from now and will post my results if anyone is interested.
If anyone has any more ideas on what to look for I'm all ears...
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Post by william42 on Apr 24, 2014 23:04:04 GMT -5
I got stuck working all night tonight and when I went to leave I didn't have a headlight light. So I switched to high beams for the trip home and BLINK, that one burned out too.
What I've been noticing the last week or so is that I'm almost hitting the 16 volts red-line on the volt meter gauge. I don't recall it being that high before. My scoot only has 310 miles on it.
So is the high voltage to blame for blowing the bulbs or is just the cheap 12v 35/35W Chinese bulbs, or perhaps some other reason? Anything I can check?
Thanks in advance for any input. Bill
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Post by william42 on Apr 24, 2014 7:48:13 GMT -5
Ok, one last update before I let this thread die. I've been riding my Scoot again and it's been running fine. I even took her for a jaunt down the highway and had her wide open most of the way, (because the speed limit was 55). Not even a hiccup in the 10 mile round trip.
I have no hard evidence on what the problem was but I'm leaning toward the over-filling of the gas tank. It's the only thing that makes any sence at all. But even that doesn't make a lot of sence. Time will tell I guess. Thanks for all the replys...
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Post by william42 on Apr 22, 2014 21:43:18 GMT -5
I have one that looks similar to that and if it's the same thing as mine, it drains the float bowl for winter storage. And that's probably more than I know.
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Post by william42 on Apr 20, 2014 11:20:54 GMT -5
I pushed and held my "arm" button like the write-up said and my alarm went nuts! I think I'll just try to figure out how to disable it without it affecting anything else.
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Post by william42 on Apr 20, 2014 4:48:44 GMT -5
I have an alarm system on my BMS Heritage 150cc scooter that I never liked from day 1. When I turn the engine off the alarm chirps at me three times reminding to to arm the system. That's annoying to say the least. I just hit the "unlock" button on my remote thing anyway and never arm the system. If someone wants to steal my bike they're going to steal it, alarm or not. And, any little gust of wind that wiggles the handlebars causes the system to chirp. And sometimes the damn thing chirps without even being armed. And, it might have a mind of it's own and might be shutting down my engine while I'm driving it (but that's just a speculation).
Anyway, since I don't use the thing anyway and it's more of a hassle than anything else, is there a way to remove or disable the alarm system without causing any other problems elsewhere in the electrical system? Can I just unplug it?
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Post by william42 on Apr 20, 2014 4:29:08 GMT -5
My gas tank opening sucks! It has a cross piece just below the top of it so when I fill the tank gas splashes on that piece and gas spills all over. I can't pump the gas into the tank any slower than I do either.
I thought of maybe cutting that piece out of the tank opening but I'm sure I would just blow the damn thing up and melt my face off.
Or perhaps carrying around a filler tube that I use to fill the tank in hopes of minimizing spillage.
Anyone else have this problem or can you think of a solution to my problem?
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Tail lights
by: william42 - Apr 20, 2014 4:08:20 GMT -5
Post by william42 on Apr 20, 2014 4:08:20 GMT -5
You're right about the break lights being up high. I guess I was focusing on being seen and not thinking about placement. The break lights were an afterthought which is why they ended up being down low. It will be easy enough to switch the two wires so I'll do just that. Thanks for the heads-up!
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Post by william42 on Apr 19, 2014 6:12:09 GMT -5
So, after a few short test runs, then a few longer ones at the dreaded 45 mph, I had no issues so I decided to chance it and take her to work. She ran like a champ.
And because I have no proof as to what the problem was, I can only speculate. 1. I replaced three vacuum lines so maybe one of them was the problem. 2. The overfill of the gas tank may have gotten gas into the Emmision System causing a problem until it dried out? (Grabbing at straws on that one I know) 3. Or maybe I didn't shut off the alarm system properly and it shut down the engine after 8 minutes (according to the owners manual). Or maybe it just doesn't work right? I think I'll start a new thred on that one and see what y'all know of such things. I need to learn everything I can about my Scoot. Thanks again everyone...
In hindsight, what I saw and gathered the engine seemed to be flooded, not starved for the lack of fuel. If I lost spark while driving wouldn't fuel continue to enter the cylinder, not burn, then flood it?
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Post by william42 on Apr 18, 2014 20:48:44 GMT -5
On my first night ride a few weeks ago a guy pulled up next to me at a stop light, rolled down his window and said "Hey man, I ride too so I'm just sayin'- your tail light is really hard to see". I thanked him and thought about it all the way home. That dinky little tail light on the back of my dinky little scooter would be really hard to see until you got right up on my . I did some Google searching for "super bright 12 volt LED light strips" and found a 5 meter roll for around 15 bucks. I ordered and got them two days later. I cut the strip to a length that would fit wrapped around the sides and back of my trunk, soldered a length of duel solid strand 24 guage wire to the conveniently located copper solder points on the strip and tapped that wire into my tail lights. They can surely see me now! But if that wasn't enough, and seeing as how I still had multiple feet of strip left, I cut another length that fit around my rear bumper and wired that strip into my break lights. I tapped both sets of wires into where the break and tail lights are. Conveinient and easy enough to do. So when my key is on my trunk light strip is on and when I break the bumper LED's come on. I feel much safer now. So a big thank you to the unknown rider that thought enough about a fello rider to say something!
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Post by william42 on Apr 18, 2014 20:05:03 GMT -5
I ordered my Scooter from Motobuys.com and it arrived at my door in the time promised along with the free stuff they said might be delivered seperately. No complaints there. A few days later, also as promised, the Certificate of Origin arrived in my mailbox.
However, said document was not properly signed over to me nor were my States' requirements for that document met. I would like to think that an interstate dealership would have foreknowledge of the state they were shipping to and have the documents prepared for that particular State. I had to mail the document back to them with my States' requirement (which was a simple Notary stamp) which tacked on 10 days before I could get a Title and Tags so I was legal to ride.
Then, after I encountered a problem with my scooter I called Motobuys three times because I kept getting cut off when transferred to Tech Support. When I finally did get through the fella took my name and number and promised to call me back in 15 minutes. He never called.
Aside from shipping on-time, everything else about the Company was less than adiquate as far as I'm concerned.
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Post by william42 on Apr 18, 2014 8:25:30 GMT -5
Just a thought. JB Weld is some good stuff. I have a common problem on machines that I maintain where the keys wear and wears away at the key slot in the motor's Rotor shaft as well. I've had some success cleaning out the key slot really good then filling the slot with JB weld, inserting the key then cutting away the excess JB compound. This method might work for your application as well and it's a whole lot less work then replacing your Crank Shaft. The key is only holding the flywheel in place and there's not a lot of torque applied to it while the flywhell is spinning so it might be worth a try.
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Post by william42 on Apr 17, 2014 8:32:49 GMT -5
There is still the critical question that prevents me from making this modification. "Why would the manufacturer mount the fuel pump in this location if that location was going to cause problems?" And another thing I have to question is why did it work just fine for the first 102 miles and then fail and rapidy get worse? That suggests to me that something failed and that simply mounting the fuel pump in a different location is not going to fix a failed part or a vacuum leak.
I'll take all that you have said into consideration but I still want to get to the root of the problem and, in my opinion, we haven't found it yet. I'm going to "take her out" this morning and see what happens. If it dies on me again I'm going to see how much fuel is in the float bowl. It has a drain hose and screw so it will be easy and quick. That should tell me something.
Thanks again for all your replies...
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Post by william42 on Apr 16, 2014 7:55:14 GMT -5
Wow! Really?! I don't mean to get into a pissing match with you sir, but your solution doesn't fit the problem. As indicated in my above post there is more than enough fuel being delivered to the carburetor when the rpm's increase. There doesn't seem to be a need to move the fuel pump as it is doing it's job. And again, why would the manufacterer mount a fuel pump in a location where it won't work satisfactorily?
I might take your advice of differing the fuel mixture at some future point in time but certainly I will not do it during the break-in period.
If indeed the problem lies with the float bowl not being supplied with enough fuel (even though the figures indicate otherwise), enriching the fuel supply would then make the problem worse, would it not?
If you don't want to back up your claims with facts and figures and convince me that modifying my set-up will cure my problem, well, have a nice day sir!
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