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The cap isn't bolted to the frame, the top (Rod End) of the shock is. The cap mearly serves as a stop for the spring and butts up against the rod end. It looks as though the cap is what's hitting the shock mount so moving that cap away from the mount would lessen the chance of the two hitting each other. If the spring were removed from the shock the spring cap should be free to move as well (slide away from the rod end). If indeed the cap is what's hitting the shock mount, by inserting a spacer between the rod end and the cap would put spacing between the cap and the shock mount.

Truth be told, I don't know how your shock is put together, but if I understand your problem correctly, and my eyes are seeing your photo correctly, my theory is sound.

Ok, so I removed the canister hose from the vacuum supply hose and left it hanging with the "Y" conector still attached. I put in a straight connector to reattach the other hose to vacuum. I removed the hose from the canister that went to the airbox then plugged it off. I left that hang too just in case it didn't work and I needed to hook everything back up.

The scooter started a lot easier and idles better too. I took her for about a 5 mile spin down the road and there didn't seem to be any ill effects. Now I need to find a really big hill to climb to give it a real shake down. But so far so good.

I changed my fuel line about three weeks ago, which might explain why it has been working a bit better.

When I got home tonight I "T'd" in a vacuum gauge on the line that supplies vacuum to the canister. I loose just about all my vacuum when I rev the engine but when I pinch off that line the vacuum remains constant through the entire range of throttle positions. It idles much better too.

I'm going to remove the canister from the system and see how it performs without it. Unless y'all know of a reason why I shouldn't.

Ok, I have two vacuum lines coming off the intake manifold and they both "T" off so there's four lines that split the vacuum between them. If I remove the canister set-up will I not get 25% more vacuum in those lines, including at the fuel pump? Would that extra 25% vacuum at the fuel pump be enough to keep the float bowl filled in times of heavy load? Is it at least worth the effort to try that set-up?

First off, I didn't mean to sound like I was implying that you said anything about my ability. I apologise if I did. But I was simply telling the truth when I said I was no authority on your problem. Because I am not. But there are people on here that are and I think that you should stick it out to see if they can help.

Troubleshooting is tricky business. That I know first hand. I am in charge of 32 machines and got called in to work not long ago and queried my night guy as to the problem. When he was done with his explanation I asked him a point blank question and he said "yes it was". Knowing that the probability that his answer was correct was about 10%, we undid what he had done to try to fix the problem, which entailed putting the motor that he thought was bad back on the machine, and tested it. It was not doing what he said it was doing. His analysis of the problem was incorrect and his answer was wrong. Had I not known the machines as well as I do I could have been looking past the root of the problem had I relied on his answer as fact.

That problem was easy for me because I could see and touch the machine in operation. Your problem will be tough for these people because you are there, with the machine, and they are not. You have to be their eyes and ears and they have to rely on your answers as fact whether they are or not.

To get an engine to run it needs three basic things. Air, fuel, and spark. It's of course somewhat more complicated than that but if one or more of those basic needs are not being met than your engine will not come to life.

If I knew more than I do I would tell you how to go about looking for those items and in what quantity and at what proper time. But I do not. But I can read and I am a troubleshooter and you said that it worked after you replaced some parts and now it's not working again so experience tells me that it was electrical issue especially since you also have other electrical issues with your brake lights, which apparantly have nothing to do with your problem. But it's still an electrical issue. So that's where I would start. With that said-

The first question that needs to be answered is; "Do you have spark at the spark plug and what test did you do to arrive at your conclusion?

Your scooter was having problems starting so you replaced the electric choke and CDI then it worked again but after two days stopped working again. I'd suspect the CDI or electric choke you just replaced and/or the wiring thereof. And being that the break lever switches and their wiring are also electrical, I'd fix them too just for good measure.

I have 400 miles on my BMS Heritage now and I'm still having a bit of an issue with starting and idling on a cold engine.

She'll pop right off with the first touch of the starter first thing in the morning but never catches or starts. The second try the starter cranks for about 5 seconds before the engine fires and keeps running but I have to give it some throttle or it'll die.

Once it's warmed up it idles just fine. It's only when the engine is cold does it not idle very well.

So my question is, is the screw that's hiding behind the cap on the carburetor controling only the idle fuel mixture? If I remove that cap and enrich the mixture will the engine idle better when the engine is cold and not affect the mixture when riding down the road?

If that screw affects anything except for idling then I don't want to mess with it. I can live with it the way it is but if I can make the cold engine idle better by messing with that screw then I'm all for it.

What say ye you men of knowledge?