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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 27, 2014 18:23:57 GMT -5
it does sound like your voltage regulator could be bad, thats usually one of the biggest problems when they go bad, is high voltage, sometimes is low voltage too but most of the times is high voltage and blown headlights because of the high voltage.
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 27, 2014 16:53:37 GMT -5
Hello Everyone, So today I decided to replace my 8 pole stator with a 11 pole stator, I have been reading a lot about it and looking at many diagrams and I just wanted to post everything I did so that whoever is trying to do this swap can have an easy way to do it and not have to buy a new harness.
First you need the 11 pole stator and the 11 pole rectifier regulator( There is a 7 wire and a 6, I installed the 6 wire one, the 7 has a black wire that is believed to be a ground, on some and power on others, so instead of guessing I just didn't want it)
I got a 20 foot spool of 16 gauge wire I divided it onto 3 parts and cut it, so you end up with three wires, install male flat wire connector on each wire, these are going to go on the 3 wire plug that has 3 yellow wires on the stator, Install your stator on a secure place( I install mine where my old one was, in the front of the bike) connect the 3 wires to the plug with the yellow, you can tape it around so they don't come out with the vibration, route the wires all the way back to the stator, the wires are going to be longer than you need them but its OK for now.
Install your 11 pole stator, now you should use wire splitters with the male end on the side of the splitter, or you can use the regular splitter but know that you wont be able to remove the stator with out undoing everything, so the plugs are better, install the wire splitter on the 3 yellow wires and the stator and also on the green wire on the stator.
Take the harness you made and cut the wires where you think is long enough to reach the stator plug, Remember that you have the 2 single wires that connect to your CDI, make sure you leave room to be able to connect those 2, after cutting the wires install the flat male that came with the wire splitter on each one of the wires you just cut, and plugged them in to the splitters on the yellow wires.
Look at your old harness and find the green wire on it connect the 4th flat male to it and connect it to the splitter plug on the green wire from the stator,now you have everything wired in except the second plug on the regulator/rectifier, find your old harness that connected to your old regulator/rectifier, both plugs are female so you cant connect them together, what I did was i too male flat wire connectors and cut 3 pieces of wire about 2 inches long, from the excess wire about, and I installed flat male connectors on both sides of the 3 pieces, so a total of 6 male connectors, and I plugged it in to the new stator on to the old harness make sure you are matching the colors, red with red, white with white, and green with green, you are not touching the yellow wire, that wire is not going to be used again. now you are all done with the harness and your scoot is running 11 pole stator.
another thing I had to do was disconnect the headlights from the a/c voltage and connect them to a 12 volt sources (like the battery), but you cant just use the battery because they wont shut off when you turn the bike off, My scooter has a yellow wire going to the light switch(high and low beam) I took that wire, and I cut it by the ignition, I found a black wire with 12 volt source at the dead plug next to the ignition so I plugged in the yellow wire to this black wire, and now the headlights come on when I turn the key on, hope this helps and sorry about my grammar, any questions just ask, thank you for reading
I almost forgot, the white wire from the regulator/rectifier its the one you connect the enricher on for the carburetor, I am running EFI so I didn't have to connect it to anything, but I was thinking on making a cell phone charger plug on there.
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 25, 2014 14:42:02 GMT -5
Ok so I am defiantly keeping it until I get something bigger, and even then I might just keep the engine and build a kart with it or something to have fun around
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 25, 2014 12:41:54 GMT -5
Hello everyone, I was wondering how much my scooter would be worth to someone that actually knows what they are buying I'm making a list of a few things a have done to the bike and if you can let me know how much you think you or someone would pay for it, thank you
Bike: 2012 Taotao Evo atm-150a
Exterior: Led plasma headlights with fan and ballast Rear Tire from 130 to 140 Michelin Super sc Reinforced Rear Trunk extra large with LED break lights and Led Signals LED Break Light Bulb, LED Turn Signals Windshield Foldable Rear view Side mirrors High pressure valve stems Custom Throttle cable For EFI throttle body NCY Break pads
Performance: Engine: A10 Camshaft Electronic Fuel Injection Kit Chrome Intake 1 vacuum port Edelbrock Shallow Air Filter Modified Original exhaust( Opened and made straight through) Performance Reinforced Starter Performance Starter clutch 11 coil upgrade Regulator rectifier for 11 pole stator Dual Fuel ports for fuel pump Transmission: 2.53 Final Drive Gear 1000 RPM Main Spring 2000 RPM Clutch Springs Kevlar Belt 116mm type B variator Face plate 115mm Variator Dr Pulley 12g Sliders
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 23, 2014 8:00:53 GMT -5
Hello everyone, So I wanted to know if anyone has experience this or if anyone knows about a thread that talks about this I was searching around but could not find anything on it. So ill start from the beginning I have a Taotao evo 150 and I have done a few things to it, but I ordered gears for it and I installed them but i didn't realized they were 2.0:1 and my bike was running like 3k rpm at 50mph but it would take a few days to get that fast, anyway I decided to take them off and go back to my original gears, last night I pout it all together and when I started it up it was clunking, I took it apart again and started looking at what could be making this noise and all I found so far is the counter gear, there is a certain spot where the counter gear pushes on the cvt drive shaft (connects to the clutch) is king of like it doesn't fit inside it or something, but it does fit in it, Now the facts this was my first time changing gears on a gy6 scooter, I didn't know the counter gear had to be pressed off from the reduction gear, I did give it a couple of good blows trying to get it off, before I went and got a puller from the part store, when I went to install the old one it wouldn't fit inside the bearing, I am guessing I mushroomed it but it doesn't look like it, you cant see anything wrong with it, but it wont go inside the bearing with out tapping it.
Has anyone ever had this problem or heard about it before? I don't want to buy new counter gear and that's not the problem.
Thank you,
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 20, 2014 18:54:16 GMT -5
Hello Everyone, I have been looking for an answer to this question for a while now, How can I make my RPM gauge work after installing the Ecotron EFI kit, well I never found an answer and I actually got it working, so I am going to post what you need to do, to make it work again, I know Played1 had problems with this issue as well, and I will also let Matt of Ecotrons know so he can let everyone know about it. Find A paper clip, preferably a small one, un wind it and cut it in half, get a piece of wire about the same gauge as the paper clip, strip a piece of wire, you are going to use the plastic not the wire, I put a little CRC Lube on the paperclip so it was a bit easier to insert in the wire plastic, you want to leave about a 1/4 inch +/- of the paper clip showing on each side, Bend it half way like a U. On your scooter, Find the plug that goes to your old CDI, (Mine had only 3 wires on a 4 wire plug) You could have 4 wires it does not make a difference on how to make the RPM Gauge work. On the Plug you are going to use the wires that come from the pick up sensor, and the wire that goes to your coil, pretty much the 2 wires that are not ground(Green wires are Ground) one is Black/Yellow and the other Blue/White. Now take the paper clip and insert it inside the plug, connecting those 2 wires together, The plastic you put in from the wire is so it does not ground out against metal, that will mess up your signal and it could fry the Pick up sensor, also remember that you are not using one of the wires anymore because you replaced it with the one that the EFI Harness came with.Start up and make sure it works Done Good Luck
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 9, 2014 12:15:38 GMT -5
I agree with everything you just said but on my Taotao 150cc the break adjuster is on the left side of the bike. After you remove the exhaust there is a plate with 2 bolts on to the engine and the right coil over is bolted to it as well you have to remove the coil over(shock absorb er W/ Spring), the to bolts on the engine and the 21 mm or 19mm bolt that holds the tire so you can remove the plate, you might have to tap on the plate to remove it, and tap on the tire to remove the tire make sure you loosen the rear break adjuster almost all the way so it doesn't hold the tire from coming out, Good Luck!!!
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 9, 2014 11:53:23 GMT -5
I like using 10W40 specially in the summer, I would recommend that you change all your fuel lines, get regular fuel lines from your local part store, Always use Pepboys (I have to put that out there) the China fuel lines don't withstand ethanol to good and the get gummy inside and those particles clog your carburetor, you can also put in I think is called Sta-bil something like that for ethanol, (or a tea spoon of oil in the gas tank) to lube up the hoses so they don't dry up, and about the fuel, like everyone pretty much said you can use 87 but I personally do not recommend it, Higher octane is not only for high compression, but more for timing advance, scooters don't have a knock sensor or a computer to tell them how much they can advance the timing, before they start knocking, the lower octane fuels will make your scoot have a lower time advance tolerance, than a higher octane fuel, no you don't need to put but 87 I personally think its way to low, that stuff burns way to fast and to volatile, I use but I have the EFI kit and I am able to advance timing how I want it, I still don't have a knock sensor but so far I haven't knocked and I am getting really good gas mileage and performance. Another thing you should do its replace your spark plug fuel filter all the regular tune stuff, these Chinese bikes come with really really cheap parts. hope this helps good luck
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 9, 2014 11:20:10 GMT -5
you might want to change your regulator rectifier anyway, but it sounds to me like you might have a wrong CDI, are you positive your cdi its the same as the stator? if its a dc cdi and a a/c stator you wont get any spark at all you can try to cut the charging wire from the cdi and connect it to the battery if it starts then you have the wrong cdi for you bike, The charge wire is the one on the 2 wire plug on the cdi that comes from the stator, usually a/c, another thing to look at its the coil, you said you replaced it, make sure the tab on the wire side of the coil didn't break, that happened to me and it was grounding out through there, let me know what you find, Good Luck
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 9, 2014 11:04:07 GMT -5
You should clean the oil off of the engine completely as best as you can, the cleaner the better, I like to use break clean when I am looking for leaks, break clean will cut all the dirt and make it super clean and dry, be careful with break clean it can mess up your plastic parts and paint, and it hurts really bad when it gets in your eyes, if you spray it on rubber make sure to wipe it off or wash it off it wont melt the rubber but it will dry it and it will become brittle if you leave it, then start your engine and look fr the oil to start coming out its usually easier to fin where it is coming from, if its all clean, also if you have oil in the filter it could be your PCV not flowing like it should and its sending oil out through the intake hose, make sure you are not over filling it with oil, higher oil pressure can cause problems. Good luck
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 8, 2014 19:23:33 GMT -5
Philadelphia here might be moving to pitsburgh
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 8, 2014 8:01:49 GMT -5
My scooter came with a tachometer, I guess if I can find wire from the tach I could try to get it wired back, its just so weird that it stopped working, like that If I put the a/c coil back on, the tach runs fine, does anyone maybe have a diagram of some sort, all diagrams I found do not have the tach on it. Also about Ecotron, I have read the manual over and over I know its a little hard to understand but the more you read and work on the scoot the more you start to understand what they are talking about, anytime I needed something they always helped me, I would send them the Cal file and they would send me a new one that should have fixed my problem, but my problem was not the map in the computer it was the coil, as soon as they send me the blue tooth I am going to send them a file so I can get a little help Tuning it for a bit more speed, also they have explained what they do in the file so i can learn what I need to do to tune the EFI system And last I want to Thank Matt and His team, you guys helped me a lot and at the end I found what my problem was, and now my scooter its running perfect....... I will email Matt and let him know about my finding of the coil, so if anyone else runs into this problem they can look for that.
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 8, 2014 6:07:51 GMT -5
Its feels like I have a tottaly different bike, its very smooth accelerating before you realize it you already doing 50 55 mph, I havent checked exactly how much my mpg has changed but I used to use about 3/4 tank going to jersey and back and I went on sunday but I wasnt full when I left and I had half a tank when I got there I filled up out there and came back to philly and my needle just started movin down, when I got to Philadelphia, also on an efi kit like db the one we are using it has to self learn your ridin habits, the more you ride it, the better mpg you will get and the more mph you can get out of it, on my way back from jersey I also stopped and turned the eco switch off, I was riding comfortable at 55mph and with the switch off I got it up to 65 a couple of times, it accelerates faster and it rides supper nice, the only thing I dont like its the noise from the intake, I want to put the airbox back on to make it quite, because its so loud oh n and I almost forgot, starting, it starts right up we have had some warm days and some really cold days and its been starting with no problem, I have only had it runming since last friday though and it was about 40 when I got it fixed.
Another thing that I really dont like it's the rpm gauge doesn't work, I had a/c cdi and after installing the d/c from the kit, my rpm gauge doesn't work, if anyone knows how to fix this I'm all ears, I want to get this fixed. Thank you
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Post by pepboyjoe on Apr 7, 2014 20:16:47 GMT -5
So I started my efi kit a couple of months ago and it was running horrible I could not figure out what was wrong, I got alot of help from the ecotron team but it was still not running good at all, everything was installed correctly and I had good fuel pressure but when I took off hard it would hesitate and pop real bad I kept looking for answers and learning the procal software, anyway I happened to put my hand down on top of the engine mount and got a nice shock, I have been shocked by ignition system before so I knew I had to look at the coil, I replaced the coil and now the shot is running awesome I rode it 100 miles one way on Sunday and it ran so nice and smooth, now I am just waiting on the blue tooth adapter back from ecotron so I can keep logging and send them my run so they can help me get a bit more mph out of the scoot.
This system its easy to install but if you dont know what you are doing it can ruin your day pretty bad, what ever you do dont give up, and if you have a problem let me know I m can try to help
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CDI Box
by: pepboyjoe - Mar 8, 2014 17:24:19 GMT -5
Post by pepboyjoe on Mar 8, 2014 17:24:19 GMT -5
Hello, I have been searching about this for a while, and havent been able to find anything, maybe someone here knows about this.
So its about the CDI, The CDI charges and then the power from the crank sensor makes it discharge, now is the power from the pick up sensor ever come in contact with the power thats charged in the CDI? I am thinking its probably like a Relay, 2 different electrical system that work together, one system turns on the magnet that makes the other electrical system engage but they are not connected together, I guess I could try to check continuity on each system just to make sure but if some is positive can you please let me know Thank you
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