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Post by JerryScript on Mar 9, 2015 12:06:58 GMT -5
Most of the people who make fun of scooters have never ridden one. Get them on one, and they usually want one themselves, even hard core bikers find them fun and end up wanting a ruckus type to tool around on.
For the price of that Ninja 50cc, you can get the Hornet 150cc, so I personally find it way too overpriced (at least at that vendor).
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 9, 2015 11:57:26 GMT -5
I've been running a 100cc (83cc really) BBK for a year and a half with the stock crank. It is a myth that you need to upgrade the crank with a BBK, it's not necessary. Since you have a secret 63, I would definitely recommend a BBK rather than stock 49cc jug and piston. You can use all the other stock parts, including head and crank.
When the head is on and the spark plug is installed, it should be harder to turn at some points (during compression), and then the valves open making it easy to turn again till the compression stroke starts again.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 9, 2015 0:40:45 GMT -5
Bought mine about a year and a half ago.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 9, 2015 0:30:02 GMT -5
I agree, it's been running a bit rich, but that is not a huge issue. It's better to be too rich than too lean on these engines. I would agree you should start by removing the tangle of emissions related hosing. Here's a thread that will help you identify what emissions parts you have. Let us know which you have, and we can tell you how to remove and plug them. itistheride.boards.net/thread/4902/emissions-scootWhat concerns me is the coloring down around the lower rings of the piston. When it's put together, take the spark plug out and put your finger over the hole, then press the starter. It should blow your finger off the hole. If it doesn't, or just gives a "phhht" without really pushing your finger off, then we may have a compression issue. Thanks JerryScript for the thread. I am just looking up on that. Is it possible to have more than one? I am sure I have the PAIR ( Pulsed Air Injection Reburn ) but I am not sure whether there are others or not. I will check on the compression after I put it back together. Yes, but if you have PAIR, you usually do not have EGR. The PAIR system has a metal tube looping up and down in front of the valve cover. The EGR system has a tube coming out of the exhaust header with a rubber hose attached to it. What is more likely is to have an EVAP with either. The EVAP controls gas vapors from the tank, and gets ruined easily if the scooter is leaned too far in any direction with a full tank. The EVAP system does not affect performance other than sometimes causing a lack of fuel delivery at WOT if it is clogged. If you remove either the PAIR or EGR system, you will have to plug the hole they attach to. The PAIR port just needs a small piece of metal with two holes drilled to match where the tube attached. The EGR needs a plug welded onto it. Once you do remove all those useless hoses, it will be easier to work on the engine with less tangle around it. And once tuned, your scooter should run a bit better without them.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 8, 2015 23:36:34 GMT -5
I love my Koso! But I also love grilled cheese and pnut butter, so maybe I have bad taste?
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 8, 2015 23:33:36 GMT -5
I agree, it's been running a bit rich, but that is not a huge issue. It's better to be too rich than too lean on these engines. I would agree you should start by removing the tangle of emissions related hosing. Here's a thread that will help you identify what emissions parts you have. Let us know which you have, and we can tell you how to remove and plug them. itistheride.boards.net/thread/4902/emissions-scootWhat concerns me is the coloring down around the lower rings of the piston. When it's put together, take the spark plug out and put your finger over the hole, then press the starter. It should blow your finger off the hole. If it doesn't, or just gives a "phhht" without really pushing your finger off, then we may have a compression issue.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 8, 2015 23:19:51 GMT -5
I've tried both gas and electric power on a mountain bike, and felt completely safe with both. The electric had more torque at take-off, but the gas had more power in mid-range when you really need it to get out of situations.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 8, 2015 11:30:13 GMT -5
Sorry, didn't realize it was a 2 stroke. I'll let those with more experience chime in, for now I would check the spark plug boot since you seem to be able to make it miss due to vibrations.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 7, 2015 3:51:00 GMT -5
Very nice bike Leo, love the whitewalls, should have known you would have them if possible!
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Safe RPM's
by: JerryScript - Mar 6, 2015 21:46:57 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 21:46:57 GMT -5
You could take the "Pink Puppy", turn it sideways and strap it on the rear of the Blue Bomber as a spare tire. BINGO! Never stranded again! Haaayyyy ! Why doesn't my scoot have a nickname ? That would be a sight to see!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 21:45:17 GMT -5
More to mask the noise I think
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Safe RPM's
by: JerryScript - Mar 6, 2015 17:07:20 GMT -5
Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 17:07:20 GMT -5
The main danger from high RPMs is to the head assembly first, then the crank. I dropped a valve last year at high RPM (going downhill around 50mph), the rocker arm pushed through the valve retaining clip, and the valve dropped down into the cylinder leaving hash marks across my piston. Had to do a head change on the side of the road, and of course the new head used different rockers, so I had to go back to the shop to get the proper rockers before finally finishing the repair road side. Luckily no one wanted to steal a broken down scooter on the side of the road that day! That was on your personal fav - the pink one? No, that baby is electric, sling enough batteries together in series, and she would probably reach 30 before burning out the motor!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 15:40:25 GMT -5
The main danger from high RPMs is to the head assembly first, then the crank. I dropped a valve last year at high RPM (going downhill around 50mph), the rocker arm pushed through the valve retaining clip, and the valve dropped down into the cylinder leaving hash marks across my piston. Had to do a head change on the side of the road, and of course the new head used different rockers, so I had to go back to the shop to get the proper rockers before finally finishing the repair road side. Luckily no one wanted to steal a broken down scooter on the side of the road that day!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 15:35:10 GMT -5
Just keep in mind, if it's above 50cc it has to be registered, and it's the frame that gets registered. I never really understood that, but the only part of your bike that is legally registered is the frame itself, everything else is an accessory.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 15:30:54 GMT -5
Depends on the size of the shocks, not all are the same. Here's a thread with a very thorough PDI including changing the front shock oil. He put in 90ml into each shock after draining 80ml from one and 70ml from the other. Keep in mind that this is a scooter with 16" wheels, so the shock may be larger than standard (I'll try to remember to compare mine to my 50cc later). He has numbered the steps to his PDI, you are looking for #21: itistheride.boards.net/thread/3438/znen-zn150t-scooter-tips-mods?page=1
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