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Post by JerryScript on Mar 12, 2015 16:40:01 GMT -5
BMS is definitely one of the top Chinese models. It is a 150cc, so it will have some version of the GY6 157QMJ engine, so parts will be very easy to find, and the engines are simple to work on once you get past the plastic body panels.
If you have the time when you do your PDI, please post pictures of the engine and interior of the CVT, would be interesting to see if they just slap chrome on the outside, or they also use better internals.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 12, 2015 16:34:28 GMT -5
Nice that they succeeded however it could have turned out badly for them if the cars behind them could not stop in time and there were damages or injuries. In the past year or so there was a woman who stopped for similar and caused a big pileup resulting in charges being levied against her for stopping along with fines and I believe loss of her license. Don't remember all the details too clearly. That's what makes these guys, and that lady, heroes. Saving a life, human or animal, while putting your own safety at risk, no better definition of hero I can think of!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 11, 2015 15:18:49 GMT -5
Here in Vegas, it's not the kids, it's the adult vermin that steal scooters, I have video to prove it, one from the theft of an employee's and now the video from my incident last nite, both adults!
I went to Home Depot this morning and purchased a good heavy 4' length of chain.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 11, 2015 15:13:07 GMT -5
I wouldn't be concerned with it having trouble idling at 15, that's too low anyway. If it idles well anywhere from 17-21, and responds well to quick throttle twists, then you are good to go.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 11, 2015 13:35:22 GMT -5
This is an awesome video, takes them awhile, but the bikers save the day!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 11, 2015 13:23:20 GMT -5
For less than $70 bucks, you can buy a honing tool and a drill, $45 depending on the type and complexity. If you can't find a shop that will do it cheap, watch videos on youtube to see how it's done, and you might be tempted to do it yourself. Here's one that shows how easy it is:
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 11, 2015 3:03:54 GMT -5
Well, it happened again. I got off work, stepped outside and my scooter was parked across two parking spaces. I had left it properly parked in one space less than 15 feet from the door to my office. This time they were able to pull the ignition plug, but were not able to reach down inside to jump the wires, thanks to my R/R blocking access without fully removing the front plastics. The ignition wires were hanging out the front and one of the screws to the front plastics was removed. They had also pretty much broken the ignition lock, you can't turn it all the way locked, but you can turn it half way now, not sure how to fix that, had to muscle the wheel back in line with the handle bars, will re-do the stem bearing in the morning. At least they didn't break anymore of the plastics this time. I will be following novaraptor's advice from now on, ATLATT, as well as parking it in front of the windows to the office instead of on the side with no windows like I had been. This is very disconcerting, but I guess that's what you can expect when you have one mean looking motor scooter!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 11, 2015 2:51:35 GMT -5
The cylinder looks fine to me as well, a bit of cleaning up and re-honing, then re-install with a new set of rings properly gapped and offset and you should be good to go. While it may not have been necessary to do a complete tear down, by the time you are finished, you will be on your way to being a decent scooter mechanic, and can brag to your friends that you rebuilt your engine yourself!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 11, 2015 2:43:39 GMT -5
I agree, since you had it tuned for cold weather, and it's now warming up, you will have to adjust the a/f again for the warmer weather. You will be leaning it out a bit for the summer, warmer air has less oxygen per volume, colder has more, so you need less fuel when it's warm and more fuel when it's cold. Generally speaking, you do the change in tuning from cold to warm and visa versa when average daily temps are around 60 degrees. Above 60, leaner, below 60 richer.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 10, 2015 14:29:06 GMT -5
The fact it doesn't smoke right away, and the smoke disappears so quickly often indicates condensation being burned off, possibly from inside the exhaust. It takes a couple of seconds for the heat to start burning it off. Together with the amount of rust on your exhaust, I'm betting on this being the issue.
If the smoke starts right away, it's usually oil burning in the cylinder, often meaning valves need to be lapped or rings/jug issues. However, it still could be an oil issue, since it takes a couple of seconds to get the oil pumping up to the head, but the fact it goes away makes me think condensation. If you are experiencing a lack of power, I would recommend a leakdown test on the head and cylinder.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 10, 2015 14:18:59 GMT -5
If you use the old piston and jug, you can probably carry the jug to a local auto shop and ask them to hone it for you, takes a minute, just a quick in and out with the honing tool a few times. They may even do it for free if you explain your situation to them, it's that easy of a job, just need the right tool.
The hardest part for first timers is getting the rings into the jug when installing everything. Get a hose clamp that will fit around the piston and rings, use it to compress the rings with the top of the piston sticking out. Push the top of the piston into the jug (already attached to the crank), then tap the jug down with a rubber mallet or hammer with some padding on the jug. It will push the hose clamp down and let the rings slide right in, saving your hands in the process.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 10, 2015 5:20:13 GMT -5
Keihin is a great carb, so good that there are tons of clones (even the special "K" stamp gets cloned, it's hard to protect designs in China), and even the clones are fine. 19mm will be fine with the proper jetting, it's what I have on my yellow scooter. If there is a Harbor Freight near you, you can get a 12v impact wrench you can run off your scooter battery (or any automotive battery for that matter). I keep one under my seat with a spare belt, I'll never be stuck on the side of the road due to a belt breaking! That's true , a bigger card is not a necessity , but for how cheap they are why not. It would be nice to have some feed back on the difference the 20mm may or may not have compared To the stock carb . also it is nice to have a back up just in case the you ever need one. All true, but please keep the OP's statement about spending in mind: What kind of budget do you have for this project? Do you want to just get it running with a few problems, or a reliable working order? I would like to have it in reliable working order but I do not have $300 to spend on it right now. I already spent $400 on it if there is a way to minimize my cost I would like to go that way. Our experiments should be done at our own expense.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 10, 2015 1:00:30 GMT -5
One other thing we need to know, are you running the stock airbox and filter, or a uni or some other after market air filter unit, and have you made any changes to it recently.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 10, 2015 0:56:37 GMT -5
Keihin is a great carb, so good that there are tons of clones (even the special "K" stamp gets cloned, it's hard to protect designs in China), and even the clones are fine. 19mm will be fine with the proper jetting, it's what I have on my yellow scooter.
If there is a Harbor Freight near you, you can get a 12v impact wrench you can run off your scooter battery (or any automotive battery for that matter). I keep one under my seat with a spare belt, I'll never be stuck on the side of the road due to a belt breaking!
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 9, 2015 12:10:05 GMT -5
Now that would be impressive, a duct tape scooter. If Myth Busters can build a sail boat out of duct tape, why not a scooter?
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