|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 15:26:38 GMT -5
The gasket absorbs some of the vibrations, and prevents wear between the metal engine case and CVT cover. It is definitely not essential, I have not had one on my 50cc since I installed my BBK a year and a half ago.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 5:07:48 GMT -5
I rotate the engines on both my 50cc with a BBK and my stock 150cc by hand using the plastic fan every time I set the valves, so that is definitely not a test that will determine the engine is bad (unless you cannot turn it at all, which would mean it is seized). Take some pictures of it once you get the plastics off, let us see decent shots up close and from a few feet away from every angle, or better yet take a video of it SLOWLY moving around the engine and post it to youtube then click the movie icon  in the reply box and paste in the URL from youtube. We are going to need to check the tubes, so run the video/pictures along the tubes. Good pictures of the carb and it's attachment points are also important. Once we can look it over and see if there is anything obvious, we can take it STEP BY STEP GUYS (don't everyone throw out ideas at once, it will overwhelm the OP). The three basics for a gasoline engine are fuel/air, spark, and compression. We will make sure each is performing properly one step at a time and get this scooter running! BTW- $300 installed for a new engine is pretty cheap, that's basically the price of a new engine without including labor, so I kind of wonder if this shop was truly going to replace it, or swap it out for another used one and fix a small issue with it to do the same to the next customer? If that price doesn't include labor, then it's more likely to be legit, because they would be charging more like $450-500 total. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 6, 2015 4:54:50 GMT -5
Have you checked the valve lash? Also, check your spark plug boot, they have a tendency to become loose, and various vibrations from different RPMs can make it cut out. Had that happen to me last year, also could only kickstart it, played with the carb for almost two weeks thinking it was air/fuel when it was a bad plug boot (the spring-clip inside had broken off).
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 5, 2015 1:06:12 GMT -5
Extermal valve adjustment??? I need to see some pictures of that,,it takes me at least 45min. to do mine,,the plastics slow me down so much.... It is really cool. The way I read to do it is to put the thing on TDC or whatever and move the little adjusters like .004 or one notch but look at this video and see the easy way to do it while it is running. Yes, while it is running. Amazing. Whoever came up with this idea was a genius. Interesting, could you link to the kit or instructions for setting an external valve adjuster up? |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 4, 2015 13:41:15 GMT -5
Some call them shims, some call the dust caps, some use both due to spacing issues (a shim is usually used to fill space). If the stem bearings come loose, sometimes these will get a bit out of place, allowing movement. If you cannot move the front wheel with it off the ground (laterally or horizontally, not spinning), then this is not your problem.
Without hearing the click, it's very hard to give an idea of what is causing it. Have you taken off the speedo puck and inspected it? Are your brake calipers solidly attached? Does your front wheel spin freely, clearing the fender and body panels?
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 3, 2015 14:55:08 GMT -5
Check your stem bearings, there are shims inside that can get out of place if the adjusting nuts become loose. The ring of ball bearings on my stem are fine both top and bottom. Also noticing lately that it dips when I turn right and is harder to turn left. The front dips down a lot even when just letting go of the brake going a foot then stopping. It's really hard to get an eye on my shocks though while I am on the scoot and I don't have any large mirrors to put in front of me to look at it while I am on it. I feel one or both of my front shocks are just done with, but I don't really know anything about shocks. A loose steering bearing wouldn't cause it to bounce and dip down and bounce back up on stops would it? Not that there is anything loose, I made sure everything was just right. I've replaced the entire front once before from the tripletree to the wheel. I remember it feeling sort of the same way when I had my old shocks on there a year ago and I accidentily spilled some shock fluid when I was taking the tripletree apart for the first time ever. Of course I replaced both shocks a week later because it was running all over the place and not taking bumps well. What you are describing is what happens when the shims inside the bearing stem get out of place. With the front wheel of the ground, can you pull it in any direction? |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 3, 2015 13:59:34 GMT -5
Check your stem bearings, there are shims inside that can get out of place if the adjusting nuts become loose.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 2, 2015 19:34:17 GMT -5
The diaphragm opening up allows more fuel in, not more air. If your plug is black, you are running too rich, too much fuel. I bet you have to keep your idle high to keep it running. If so, that is because increasing the turns on the idle speed screw actually opens up the buttefly, allowing more air in, which you need due to a too rich condition. Try turning your a/f screw in 1/4 turn at a time, waiting a full minute between each change. Once you get to the highest idle speed you can achieve, turn the a/f screw back out 1/4 turn. Now set your idle speed screw to the highest idle you can without causing the wheel to turn (or if you have an RPM gauge, set it to around 1700rpm).
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 2, 2015 15:43:00 GMT -5
Had a bit of rain in Vegas the past couple of days. I got worried last night when I got home because I barely had enough shop towels left to wipe her down with. Made me wonder, how obsessive are other scooter owners with maintaining their rides?
I love to wrench on mine weekly, and I do wipe off spots daily and wipe her down after every wet ride. Am I at the extreme end, do you fret when you see a smudge on your front fender as well? Or do you put gas in and enjoy the ride, only worrying when something doesn't seem right?
If you saw someone taking off on your scooter, would this be you?
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 2, 2015 1:25:19 GMT -5
Definitely replace all those hoses, your have the classic symptoms of an air or vacuum leak. No standard diameter for the hoses, you'll probably need two different sizes. I wouldn't order online, just take a couple of pieces to the local auto parts store or hardware store, then should have it in stock, all vehicles need these lines.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 1, 2015 13:24:43 GMT -5
And this is why many of us here recommend the advancing (not advanced) angle CDI that tvnacman sells, it prevents kickback at low RPM, and advances as the RPMs increase. The stock CDI has a similar curve, but it is much steeper in the lower RPMs and flattens out, the advancing angle CDI has a smoother curve. |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Mar 1, 2015 2:11:32 GMT -5
I don't know, I kinda liked the laid back leaned over look in the first picture, maybe it's just me!  J/K, great job, enjoy the ride!  |
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 26, 2015 14:32:00 GMT -5
I can never find my needle nose, one of the more popular tools around my house that never seems to get put back. I just press the needle against a hard surface to pop the clip off.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 26, 2015 0:21:36 GMT -5
Sounds good, with a maintenance charger, you'll be good to go no matter what.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Feb 25, 2015 16:30:54 GMT -5
If it sound like metal squeaking, only squeaks when loaded, that is usually an indication of worn bearings. I would check both the stem bolt bearing, and the front wheel bearings.
|
|
