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Post by JerryScript on Jun 6, 2015 17:11:41 GMT -5
Does your CVT cover have a filter, and if so have you modified it?
There is usually an exhaust hole at the rear of the CVT, if you have one is it clogged?
Only way to check belt wear over such a short time frame is with a micrometer. It is possible you got an older belt that is dried out, so keep an eye on it.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 5, 2015 21:40:08 GMT -5
Ground wire is attached to the 'head stud"? Is that the valve cover bolt, or the cylinder head bolt? Either way, not a very good ground point. The jug is separated from the crankcase by a paper gasket (no conduction there), and the valve cover is separated by a rubber o right (sort of), so no conduction there. Can't believe there is an electrical lug under a cylinder head nut ... maybe something on the side of the head? Ground path can only be thru the head bolts or down the valve chain. Anyway - there isn't a ground directly on the crankcase anywhere? The ground strap is connected to the valve cover on more than half of all models. |
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 5, 2015 15:14:51 GMT -5
FYI- you can get a GPS unit for $40 on Amazon with an H2O sim card for three months for $10. You call the GPS unit and it texts you back with the location. Has several other features as well, definitely worth the costs!
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 4, 2015 2:51:14 GMT -5
The engine mount is different on the two, you have to modify the frame mounts from below to above the engine. I do not know if those particular designs have non-standard mounting points.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 3, 2015 11:54:49 GMT -5
I would expect around $100, less if they can just bore it out, more if they have to bend a custom piece.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 3, 2015 11:52:47 GMT -5
When it wouldn't start with the kickstarter, did pushing down on it at least turn the engine over, or did it just grind same as with the electric starter?
I wouldn't trust a word out of that dealer's mouth. A hole in the intake valve could only be formed by extreme overheating, and the exhaust valve would have failed first since it gets hotter.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 2, 2015 19:38:57 GMT -5
No need to drain the oil unless you are splitting the case. You can leave it in when pulling the jug.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 2, 2015 19:35:45 GMT -5
Your plug looks ok, definitely on the rich side, but that's good. Do you always check the level while on the center stand?
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 2, 2015 19:32:37 GMT -5
Take your current header to a muffler shop and have them use it to fabricate a non-restricted pipe. They may be able to bore the current one out, or use the existing flange. You may have to go to a performance shop, they should have all necessary equipment.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 2, 2015 7:15:15 GMT -5
Cap that vent hose and drill a 1/16" hole in the middle of the gas cap for venting (actually to prevent vacuum lock preventing gas flow).
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Post by JerryScript on May 31, 2015 14:32:42 GMT -5
In some builds, you need a piston with valve hollows for the four valves. You can use modeling clay to determine if your piston needs modding, a dremel is enough to do the job.
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Post by JerryScript on May 31, 2015 14:27:30 GMT -5
K excuse my first post Not to offend I have one of those NCY 61mm Big valve heads completed less springs. The most important factor in cylinder head flow is the Valve Job, not porting. And a proper valve job isn't a three angle job. The ports are darn near too big already, just blending of the Bowls is bout it. The Valve Springs supplied are Junk! I have ordered three more sets from three different mfg.'s and all junk! I even got a set with the inner and outer winding's going in the same direction. junk!! I will most likely have PSI spring make me a custom set. So Great luck and hope the build goes well Pistonguy I agree, the valve springs are the weakest link on the gy6 engine. I've had float issues with both stock and "performance" heads. If you do find a good source, please let us know. |
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Post by JerryScript on May 29, 2015 22:05:15 GMT -5
See the lines on the exhaust port ? Ncy would smoothen those out. Atleast that's what I would expect. I agree they look like they need a ton of work. The trick is knowing what to leave behind. Those with the skill to do a good port job are rare, those with gy6 experience are rarer. Example, leaving a lip on certain curves and edges greatly increases flow, and prevents pressure differential turbulence. Knowing how to shape the lip comes only from experience. |
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Post by JerryScript on May 29, 2015 21:54:49 GMT -5
I got a kit for $55 last year, it's still running great. You obviously did something wrong dude, just keep at it, try again get a new kit. Just because your cheap kit worked out, that doesn't mean that someone with a kit that didn't work out did something wrong. With cheaper cylinders and heads, the mating surfaces may have flaws, leading to leaks and loss of compression, regardless of someone's skill at installing them. |
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Post by JerryScript on May 29, 2015 20:15:49 GMT -5
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