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Post by JerryScript on Jun 11, 2015 8:55:00 GMT -5
Two things to keep in mind:
1- I have seen cops follow a scooter forcing the rider to go WOT to determine it's top speed. The guy got a ticket for riding a non-registered motorcycle, even though all markings showed 50cc the law in Nevada restricts 50cc to 35mph.
2- If you are in a severe enough accident, they may investigate your scooter's mechanical condition. A quick measurement of the piston, and you could be denied your claim, and possibly prosecuted for fraud.
Full disclosure, I ride a BBK'd 50cc (83 with Bbk) illegally, and a fully legal 150cc (currently stock).
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 10, 2015 15:35:20 GMT -5
I agree, if it gets worse moving it up,try the other way. Tuning is more an art than science unless you use EFI.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 10, 2015 13:34:29 GMT -5
Running good when cold and suffering when hot usually indicates you are too rich. Since it only happens at 4-5k RPMs, you should try lowering the needle by raising the clip on it, or removing washer spacers if used.
Be sure to thoroughly inspect the diaphragm, though tears/holes in the diaphragm usually make it run to lean.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 10, 2015 9:43:27 GMT -5
Yes they can be, but only by a few mph. The best test is done with markings on the road. Using video with a clock overlay you can calculate your speed very accurately between two points with a known distance. Get up to speed before hitting the first mark.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 10, 2015 9:35:42 GMT -5
Sorry, a little patience please. I've had some family issues over the past week, didn't mean to ignore. Will look over the pics on my computer when I get home, hard to tell when viewing on my small phone.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 9, 2015 21:25:17 GMT -5
It's probably marked in kph not mph. Many if not most Chinese scooters do not have very accurate speedos regardless of the marking units anyway.
For the tach, you'll need to trace the wires, it probably hooks up to the CDI, but it may wrap around the coil wire.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 9, 2015 11:43:28 GMT -5
With a dremel, it only takes 5 minutes to put a groove in those bowl bolts, no reason to waste money on a new carb IMHO.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 8, 2015 19:45:29 GMT -5
Edit - joeyb beat me to it!
Your engine needs a particular amount of fuel and air. When you switch to a uni filter, you allow more air in, so you need to get more fuel as well to get the proper ratio. You may be able to just adjust the air/fuel mixture screw to add more fuel by turning it counter clockwise. If you turn it more than 3 full turns out from being all the way in, and it still bogs, that means you need a larger main jet in your carb.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 8, 2015 17:18:47 GMT -5
Two things make the crankshaft turn over easy, bad rings, and valves out of adjustment real tight or needing laping.
Running an engine at high RPMs will weaken the valve springs over time, resulting in valve float, allowing the seats to be burnt or fouled, which causes a loss of compression.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 8, 2015 13:02:19 GMT -5
On all three of my scooters, the filter is between the tank and the petcock.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 7, 2015 0:52:28 GMT -5
There are several belt sizes, and you can often tell which you have by your wheel size.
For 50cc with 10" it's usually short case with a 669, 12-14" is usually long case with a 729, the QJ variant with either 836 or 891.
For 150cc with 10" it's usually short case 743, for some it's 835, and the weird 815 wide belt, 12-14" it's usually 842, and 16" wheels use a 906. There are many others, and a multitude of widths and thicknesses.
On my 50cc with 10" wheels, the belt has to be almost all the way down in the clutch just to get it over the crankshaft. On my 150cc with 16" wheels, I barely have to compress the clutch and I can slip the belt over the crankshaft easily.
In that picture, it appears you have way too much slack in your belt, but it's hard to tell. A video of it running would help.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 6, 2015 22:14:07 GMT -5
Yep, you would definitely need an intercooler, something I've toyed with the idea of trying during hot Vegas summers. I just don't think it would help enough to offset it's negatives.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 6, 2015 22:08:17 GMT -5
With a too large belt, it is possible the variator is open without the weights pushing it. Without tension, the ramp plate can have enough room to wiggle, which would destroy the guides.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 6, 2015 22:03:39 GMT -5
You'll need a relay with a normally closed switch, powered by the stator, which will open when the stator is putting out enough juice to activate it, and will return to the closed state when the stator is not putting out juice. The power for the device hooked up to this relay will come straight from the battery, so no AC components.
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 6, 2015 21:58:01 GMT -5
It's not the flinging action that matters, it's the air currents inside the CVT that determine where dust will accumulate.
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