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Post by payneib on Apr 18, 2013 16:08:36 GMT -5
I'd be jumping up and down all over their insurance.
No way should be paying anything for this. Check your ribs for an imprint of their number plate.
Glad you're up and ok.
Ian
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Post by payneib on Apr 17, 2013 16:33:15 GMT -5
The scoot could have been stolen and wired to get it going without a key. Good shout that. When you say "got it from the auction" do you mean police auction? Or eBay? If eBay it might be worth using one of those "number plate check" text services (depending where in the world you are, and what vehicle registration is like for it) as it could be stolen. Reporting it and losing your money, is better than getting arrested and losing your money. Ian |
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Post by payneib on Apr 17, 2013 15:46:12 GMT -5
I'm guessing the best place to start would be the ignition switch. From the sounds of it, things are wired up in there all kinds of wrong.
The previous owner could have just wired everything up to run without a battery, or key. Seems odd though.
Ian
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Post by payneib on Apr 17, 2013 15:31:21 GMT -5
I've done some reading:
It turns out the process for putting a new chain in COULD be:
Variator off, oil seal out, feed chain through crankcase and up, re-set chain guides, Vv heights, etc etc.
OR:
Remove engine from scoot, remove engine shroud, dismantle cylinder, split crank case, fit chain to bottom sprocket, rebuild engine around the chain, refit engine to bike.
Please tell me the 152QMI-A is the first one?!
Thanks,
Ian.
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Post by payneib on Apr 17, 2013 11:52:04 GMT -5
My scoot is Patricia. My Mrs calls it my "scooter patooter", and one day on my 45 mile ride home, it was -5degC, and while singing (badly and loud) inside my helmet to take my mind off the cold, it kind of stuck.
She may be declared KIA soon though, I've got to change the timing chain, and Haynes says it could either take an hour and be easy, or I could end up splitting the crank case over about a week!
Hopefully it'll be the first one,
Ian
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Post by payneib on Apr 15, 2013 15:11:04 GMT -5
Well the good news is the water is out.
The bad news is blue/black smoke=oil.
I'd double check that you haven't over filled it first, but the rings have probably gone.
Ian
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Post by payneib on Apr 15, 2013 13:54:30 GMT -5
125cc
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Post by payneib on Apr 15, 2013 13:07:56 GMT -5
........to know everything you know!
Due to my warranty being voided pretty much by "it's been used", I've got to replace my timing chain and a tappet.
The parts should be here on Thursday, I'm hoping to have it running ready for the commute on Saturday morning.
Anything you know that might help, would be most appreciated.
Thanks,
Ian.
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Post by payneib on Apr 14, 2013 15:47:11 GMT -5
White smoke=water.
It'll be full of condensation after a winter of storage.
Ditch the old fuel. Change the oil. Run a full tank petrol through it, and it SHOULD warm up enough to clear it all out. After that, change the oil again.
If its still hoofing out white smoke then, you could have other problems.
Ian
EDIT: I just saw this was in 2t section: so yeah, just change the fuel and put fresh 2t oil in. Once it's warmed up properly you should be ok.
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Post by payneib on Apr 14, 2013 15:42:51 GMT -5
It was scratched from being skidded across the garage floor. It was basically mint. ?!! Who the does that with a helmet?! It's knackered mate. I wouldn't touch that with a barge pole. It doesn't matter that its never been in a wreck. I saw a test on TV showing two identical helmets, fresh out of the box. One was nocked off a scooter seat, and showed no outward signs of damage, not even a scratch. the other not. Guess which one failed when tested. It's your noggin, but unless you buy new, you might as well be wearing baseball cap. Ian |
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Post by payneib on Apr 13, 2013 22:18:38 GMT -5
had a big scratch on it . And who knows what other damage. Not very likely to offer any protection in an impact. The very reason he needs a new lid is because his has done the job they're only ever able to do once. NEVER buy a second hand helmet. You have no idea how its been treated. Ian |
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Post by payneib on Apr 10, 2013 16:41:05 GMT -5
I think he just got threaders with all the politics about the forum split(s) that happened. It's a shame, he's a real loss. There was a significant amount of flaming and personal insults being thrown around for a while, and while trying to be a voice of reason, I think he ended up on the wrong end of a lot of it for no real reason.
That's what happens when a forum is run with minimal moderation. I think there's just (barely) enough here now, but right at the start, there just wasn't. I'd have hated to see what the old SD was like at its worse.
Ian
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Post by payneib on Apr 10, 2013 10:50:49 GMT -5
Mine doesn't slow me down, but if it's windy it does feel like some ones grabbed the back of the bike and given it a damn good shake!
Ian
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Post by payneib on Apr 10, 2013 10:14:48 GMT -5
Turns out it was the Vvs. The intake was bent slightly, I didn't detect anything on the exhaust. I tried straightening the bent one, it ran for a while then died.
The intake is now very bent, timing chain has snapped and the intake tappet has snapped off and disappeared.
It's going back to the dealer on warranty. Will still cost me £180 on transport costs though.
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Post by payneib on Apr 8, 2013 21:53:46 GMT -5
Your symptoms on an air cooled 125 lends to water vapor blow by from too much throttle on a cold engine with the possibility of valves set too far open and maybe rings that are marginal. Taking the cap off will probably mask the problem and run you a bit lean. You need to find the source of the excessive crankcase pressure/blow by. You could even be looking at water vapor in the gas tank getting recirculated into the crankcase. That sounds plausible. Since the exhaust went, I've avoided warming it up properly due to the embarrassing nature of the noise. I don't think it's the fuel tank: I do a 90mile round trip on a 1 gallon tank, so it's fresh petrol every day. WRT the valves, where's the TDC mark on these? I can't seem to find a way of getting the fan cover off, but it does have a view port at about the 10-11 o'clock position. All I can see in there is an electrical striker plate just behind the fan, which I assume is for timing. I hope it's not the rings. That would require expenditure and time I can't afford at the moment. Things to do tomorrow: Check oil level, drain if necessary. Check Vv clearance, adjust as necessary. Replace exhaust down tube and gaskets. Warm engine and test run, looking at breather drain tube specifically. Anything else that won't require a full strip down and re-build? Thanks for your help guys, Ian |
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