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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 13, 2015 0:14:41 GMT -5
Actually .002" is close to .05mm. .005" is close to .13mm .0025"= .06mm .003"= .08mm .004" .1mm .005" .13mm (mm is rounded up) Shoot! I used this gauge once after i bought the used scooter. It ran much better. Before that the engine was "stopping" after it git to normal temps. So do i need metric .003 and .004? No, .003 is inches. The metric equivalent to .003inches is .08mm
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 13, 2015 0:01:35 GMT -5
Actually .002" is close to .05mm.
.005" is close to .13mm
.0025"= .06mm .003"= .08mm .004" .1mm .005" .13mm
(mm is rounded to the nearest hundredth)
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 11, 2015 20:39:33 GMT -5
I remember watching Dusty on Saturday nights when I watched wrestling during the late 80's to early-mid 's. I wasn't really a big fan of him back then, but I'm sure if I was a lot older back then I would've appreciated him more.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 11, 2015 18:39:19 GMT -5
Make sure the intake side of the piston is on top and the same with the rocker assembly. Ex is on the bottom.
Use a torque wrench on the head bolts and reset the valve gaps and double check the setting after tightening the lock nuts, when done.
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Timing
by: onewheeldrive - Jun 10, 2015 20:07:52 GMT -5
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 10, 2015 20:07:52 GMT -5
I wouldn't think so.
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Timing
by: onewheeldrive - Jun 10, 2015 14:13:01 GMT -5
via mobile
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 10, 2015 14:13:01 GMT -5
Yes. If I take the head nuts off, I check/adjust my valves everytime after the nuts get torqued back down.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 10, 2015 2:45:57 GMT -5
(oh, sorry, that's not right, is it? It's eggs benedict, isn't it? Na ja, that's where my brain took us....) College Degree (Hey that actually sounds good---omelet benedict! Just use 1 egg to make a mini omelet so it'll be small enough to fit on an English Muffin! I'll seriously make that one day.)
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Timing
by: onewheeldrive - Jun 10, 2015 2:13:56 GMT -5
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 10, 2015 2:13:56 GMT -5
If you can get a better angle on the cam holes (side angle) and maybe some light or something on the flywheel "T" mark, that'd be great because I can't make a whole lot out of either pic, really. I can't see if the cam is a tooth off at that angle, and I can't see the "T" mark on the flywheel to see if it lines up with the notch on the engine. What does "slip" mean?
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 9, 2015 22:25:40 GMT -5
What fuse do we use on these scoots? Think my fuse may have blown, Idk yet but picking up a spare on the way home won't hurt. Nevermind.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 9, 2015 20:25:25 GMT -5
What fuse do we use on these scoots? Think my fuse may have blown, Idk yet but picking up a spare on the way home won't hurt.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 7, 2015 18:40:24 GMT -5
The boss is cylinder shaped about 2in long. Put the boss in the variator in your hands (not on the scoot) and check for play. There shouldn't be any wiggling. See pic #3 itistheride.boards.net/thread/7749/texas-variator-massacreIf you pulled off the cvt cover and your belt had that much slack, I'd suspect a possible main spring issue in the clutch.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 7, 2015 12:36:23 GMT -5
I would like to see the boss the variator rides and slides on too. John Yeah that inner bushing of the variator looks toasted. I would guess there is a bit too much play between the variator and the boss, because of the worn bushing. Maybe even take a pic of the boss inside the variator.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 7, 2015 5:12:36 GMT -5
If you have a 669 belt then your belt size is fine, unless the numbers are lying or the belt is defected, because 669 is the shortest belt I know of for 139qmb. The pic showing your belt looks like the belt was just put on, after tightening the variator/clutch nuts and just before starting the scoot for the first time --- it always has slack at that moment on the variator side.
The slack is a good thing because you don't want to tighten the variator drive face down onto the belt. You want the belt to be able to move freely on that side but only for tightening purposes. That way, when you put the drive face on, the belt doesn't interfere with proper positioning so everything fits like it's supposed to. With no slack the belt gets in the way.
After putting a belt on, tightening the pulley nuts, and before starting the scoot, I rotate the belt by hand counter-clockwise until there is no slack left and the variator turns. By the time I'm done rotating the belt by hand, the belt will no longer be down in the clutch and will be down in the variator-- as if the belt change never happened. I like to "prime the belt" before starting.
The wear mark(s) on top of your belt could be from rubbing against the starter bendix. I have those marks on probably 5 belts in my garage. It's basically one continuous line all the way around the belts. As long as the bushing(s?) the bendix sits into are ok, then I think it's just the way some of these engines are designed. Chinese scoots aren't perfect. See if the closest part of the bendix (to the belt) is directly above the line on the belt.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 4, 2015 14:01:58 GMT -5
There's been quite a few times leaving work knowing a storm was coming, it's a matter of trying to beat the storm home. Sometimes I win, sometimes I lose--- and lose badly. A complete downpour for 15 minutes of riding is the only time(s) my scoot died.
A little green on the radar never bothered me. It's the yellow and red you get caught in knowingly or unknowingly. Yeah you can pull over into a store but you may be waiting for an hour, or more.
Just watch for water filled potholes, lol!
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Post by onewheeldrive on Jun 3, 2015 21:38:05 GMT -5
It causes corrosion on electrical wires/connections.
I was without a rear tire guard for awhile, and all the water and dirt was flung all over the carb. The accelerator pump wouldn't even move, when all was said and done, due to rust and corrosion.
If rain gets into the ignition system your scoot may die out. I've had that happen a few times awhile back.
Of course, hiding exposed wires and "water-proofing" connections helps to minimize that.
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