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Post by pmatulew on Aug 17, 2013 7:54:52 GMT -5
Starting a new thread so as not to hijack another. Even if the tire and wheel look fine when you're spinning it around, the wheel balance can be way off. When I got my Znen 150 it was hopping and wiggling all over the place. How am I supposed to be able to notice the important noises and vibrations? Fix the wheel balance. There are commercially made wheel balancers available. The free rolling bearings allow you to make very fine adjustments. They're not necessarily cheap though.  in it's simplest form all you really need is a stick and a flat surface to let it roll on. Maybe not as super accurate but you can at least get close.  For a scooter front wheel you can just use the front axle as the stick. I clamped mine in a bench vise. Or you could roll it between two boards or something. For the rear I found a piece of electrical conduit that I was able to shove through the rear splines. Not perfect, but reasonably close. To balance the wheel you can spin it and wait. Or turn the wheel  degrees at a time and then let go and see which side goes up, and which goes down. Keep adding weight to the light side until it doesn't want to move by itself anymore. I bought a couple strips of stick-on weights at the local tire shop. i had to add 9 squares to one side of the rear wheel before it quit moving. That's a lot for a small wheel. The end result is well worth the effort. If your wheels are reasonably close already and you're game for some voodoo magic, you might consider trying Dynabeads --> www.innovativebalancing.com/motorcycle.htm I've got them them in the wheels of my big bike. I still don't understand exactly how they work, but they do. At least until you get up above 80mph which shouldn't be an issue for most of the smaller displacement scooty crowd. |
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 16, 2013 17:16:58 GMT -5
The sound quality of the video isn't good enough for me to hear what you're hearing.
Is the wheel itself balanced? Mine was way off. Way way off.
Can those three muffler bolts not be tightened from the outside? The nuts behind may be welded in place so you don't need to be able to access them.
It's possible the problem may be inside the muffler itself. If a tack weld has come loose and one of the baffles is rattling around in there. I've got a Honda ATV that has been making all sorts of buzzing, squealing, and rattling noises for quite a while now.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 16, 2013 11:34:21 GMT -5
Did that JB Weld hold?
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 16, 2013 5:05:48 GMT -5
That's kind of what I'm thinking. Just need to sort out how to make it secure enough that it doesn't move around due to vibration.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 15, 2013 18:21:55 GMT -5
I'm new to CVT scooters and GY6 motors in particular, and I'm not sure what it's doing yet. It's a new build. The previous owner smoked it in the first 1000 miles by opening it all up without re-jetting. After rebuilding I put a 110 jet in and it seems to be doing okay. (It didn't like a 115 at all.) Has about 300 miles on it now. Idles fine. Reasonably responsive. At high rpm it has sagged on me a few times. I suspect either vacuum leak or fuel pump wimping out. Since the last vacuum disconnect/re-arrange it doesn't sag but it doesn't have that last 10% of top end either. Maybe too rich now? Maybe lighter weights to bring the rpm's up?  |
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 15, 2013 17:55:05 GMT -5
I'll have to come up with something clever. With Vespa style bodywork I can't even get the lid off without removing the rear shell. Don't want to keep doing that more than necessary.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 15, 2013 17:47:48 GMT -5
The idle speed screw is just a lower limit stop that holds the butterfly inlet valve open a little bit to maintain a given idle speed. At anything above idle it doesn't do anything.
The idle mixture screw depending on the manufacturer and the placement is either and air adjust or a fuel adjust. Either way you are fine tuning the low speed mixture. I believe that when the screw is on the downstream side it is a fuel adjust. Counterclockwise/richer. Clockwise/leaner.
At least you're asking first. I have a bad habit of taking things apart and then asking questions.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 15, 2013 12:00:53 GMT -5
Does anyone have a brilliant idea for an adjustable airbox inlet? I've seen many variations of poking holes but they all seem like they are a permanent change.
Any thoughts on a mod that would be easily adjustable and reversible?
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 15, 2013 11:57:31 GMT -5
So, I'm trying to dial in the mixture on a relatively stock ZNEN 150. (The only mods are to remove most of the vacuum connections.)
I put a new NGK plug in a took it for a ride. How far do I need to travel before getting some sort of useable result? Miles? Tens of Miles? Does it change minute by minute or does it take a while?
I rode it to work and back (~9 miles each way) and it's a little black around the edges but otherwise unchanged. (Yes I know I'm supposed to chop it at full throttle and pull it hot.)
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safety
by: pmatulew - Aug 15, 2013 11:47:20 GMT -5
Post by pmatulew on Aug 15, 2013 11:47:20 GMT -5
Welcome to personal responsibility and enlightenment. A good hat and gloves should be mandatory. Besides the ovbious hazards of large insects and flying debris, it doesn't take much of a tumble to bash your head --> itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?action=gotopost&board=general&thread=3716&post=42048And if you're like most of us and work with your hands, you should make some effort to protect them. Mess up your hands and you can't work. No worky, no paycheck! The rest depends on traffic conditions and your local environment. A decent motorcycle jacket will have padded armor to protect your elbows, shoulders, and back from the initial impact with the ground as well as abrasion resistant material to lessen road rash. Some sort of sturdy footwear that covers your ankles, (they're kind of important), and that are well secured to your feet so that they don't abandon you at an inopportune moment and leave your toesies to fend for them selves against the pavement. Pants are a more subjective topic. I know scooterers can be a wild a crazy bunch, but please wear something.  |
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 10, 2013 7:01:26 GMT -5
Timing is about the relationship between crank position and valve opening and closing. It's measured in degrees of a circle. You can't determine that accurately by eyeballing the position of the piston or the position of the crank (which is hidden anyway). You have to use the marks on the flywheel. Looking at your picture you should be aligning the hash mark next to the "T" not the painted "T" itself. Then you have to adjust the camshaft forward and back a tooth at a time until it is in the right position relative to the flywheel.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 9, 2013 6:37:56 GMT -5
The rubber seals used in brake parts are special material meant to be resistant to brake fluid which is mean and nasty stuff that will eat normal rubber.
After cleaning brake parts you should wipe everything down with alcohol and then pre-lube with clean brake fluid before re-assembly. And clean up any drips because brake fluid will eat your paint too.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 8, 2013 11:45:12 GMT -5
Not notarized? I bet it comes back. They are persnickety.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 8, 2013 5:43:04 GMT -5
MSF course all the way --> online2.msf-usa.org/msf/Default.aspxGood to hear you got off relatively unscathed. My scootering aunt hit a car that was backing out of a driveway and needed a steel rod and screws to put her leg back together. Don't put all your faith in the anti-lock brakes. They might have kept you upright, but you would have hit the car instead. Never skimp on tires and brakes. On the road with the heavy herd it's all about seeing and being seen. See everything. Front, back, and sides. Look through the car ahead of you. Look ahead as far as you can see. Anticipate what's going to happen before it does and then stay out of it. We all get complacent and we all make mistakes. (myself included) Unfortunately for us lightweights the mistakes have more serious consequences than "oops, I dropped my phone." Heal fast and get back on that horse.  |
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 7, 2013 17:21:39 GMT -5
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degrees at a time and then let go and see which side goes up, and which goes down. Keep adding weight to the light side until it doesn't want to move by itself anymore.