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Post by ckizer on Aug 13, 2013 14:26:22 GMT -5
I have 2012 TaoTao PowerMax VIP 150cc scooter. I need a new head. I'm not sure exactly which one is correct. I think it's this one below. Is this correct? www.amazon.com/Avanti-150cc-GY6-Cylinder-Head/dp/B00475U2TS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1376421564&sr=8-1&keywords=gy6+150cc+headI am not a car/motorcycle person. I'm electrical engineer. I stripped the screws to the exhaust and since I have new exhaust coming I'd just like to repair the head so the screws fit in there again without dealing with rethreading and breaking my head in the meantime. If I buy this head, will I need to take the old head apart to put those rod looking things inside? I have a friend who owns a motorcycle shop so he will help me. Will I need anything beside a shop full of tools with this purchase? I really need to have my exhaust on tight. It's not very loud right now, but I want it tight. |
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Post by ckizer on Aug 13, 2013 14:47:41 GMT -5
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Post by millsc on Aug 13, 2013 14:50:28 GMT -5
why do you need a new head? if the head is still good just replace the exhaust studs
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Post by ckizer on Aug 13, 2013 14:55:42 GMT -5
The exhaust studs are not good, i replaced them. One snapped off again. Which has enough to get a small nut on it. The otherside however screws in, and screws a little tight then if you keep screwing it goes loose again (the post). If i look up in there i see what looks like 2mm of a top of a screw head up there or something. I don't know how to get it to screw tight and the nut needs about 10 more turns to be tight enough to not leak exhaust.
Whomever designed heads with CHEEP screws that shake lose, or then snap off needs to lose there job. If i could tighten this screw I'd be golden. I even went and and tried about 20 different styles of 6mm screws nuts or other things that might work spending $30 on bolts at do-it-best hardware. It's my only vehicle right now. So if I have someone trie to tap broken stud out up there and they go to far I'm really screwed.
I just figured I'd buy a new head, and be done with it…
It's really frustrating because i just got done drilling out a screw that connects the muffler to the muffler mount so I could put a bolt in there so it wasn't shaking lose anymore. I did a terrible job with the screw extractor and just put a bolt in there to hold it tight. I don't DARE try to get 2mm of screw stuck at the top of the exhaust post inside the head out so my screw post will go in tight. It vibrates lose each time i screw it up there, and it's never all the way tight anymore :-(…
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Post by millsc on Aug 13, 2013 14:58:02 GMT -5
get the one that already assembled save yourself some grief, ill have an extra head in a week that i'd sell you cheap
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Post by millsc on Aug 13, 2013 14:58:49 GMT -5
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Post by toxictom on Aug 13, 2013 19:38:57 GMT -5
Had the same thing happen. I got a 150cc head, jug and piston for just a few dollars more than I was finding for just the head. I just used the head as I didn't want to go through a break in period. One of these days I will put the 150 cylinder onto my 125 and use the existing head. Somewhat of a BBK if you will.
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Aug 14, 2013 7:31:13 GMT -5
drill and retap for the 8mm studs... stronger, more durable. Dont over tighten with 6 or 8mm. The aluminum head and steel studs already have a tough life living together.
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Post by ckizer on Aug 14, 2013 12:36:20 GMT -5
I'm thinking of drilling and retapping for 8mm. How do I know if the head is pre-assembled? Is the 2nd link I posted pre-assembled?
The issue is if I drill and retap for 8mm and I mess up, it will drill a hole into the head and I won't have a ride home. Sooo I'd like to order a backup head just incase.
Any suggestion on how I can drill and retap? Any youtube tutorial? How do I know that I won't go too deep?
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Aug 14, 2013 12:51:14 GMT -5
I have not looked for any videos, but there are probably some that would eb helpful
I would measure the depth of the current hole, and use a drill stop or a rugged bit of tape to tell me when I've reached the depth. Drill slow and easy.
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Post by ckizer on Aug 14, 2013 12:56:57 GMT -5
Here's the graphic I spent an hour on at work to show you my issues, please advise. I have about 1 hour after work to use machine shop. I need it to be quiet and reliable this week. ALL SOLUTIONS and IDEAS welcome! THIS IS MY ONLY TRANSPORTATION I have a new muffler that will be here tomorrow. I want to make sure my ride is sealed up and working this week. I need it to get around. I have tons of 6mm threaded pieces I bought at Do-It-Best. - A) Weld stud #1 in place around existing head,pop out stud #2 and screw a new one in. Cry about o-ring for while hoping burned up gasket makes my ride quiet, and wait out eternity while new gasket ships.
- B) Weld stud #1 in place. Replace Stud #2, put in JBWELD inside o-ring area, and all
around gasket area to SEAL IN NOISE.Keep in Mind a new muffler is probably coming tomorrow after 2 weeks of waiting.
- C) Try to rethread holes as 8mm, but I have NO IDEA what to buy at the hardware store work to DO THIS. PLEASE TELL ME.Then pray that i don't drill into the head, and instantly ruin my ride.
- D) ORDER new head, but I STILL need a solution that will cover me for the next to days and I'd really, really like it to be quiet. It scares me when it's loud because I think it's not reliable.
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Post by ckizer on Aug 14, 2013 13:17:52 GMT -5
[replyingto=millsc]millsc[/replyingto]Where's the fully assembled one? Are the links above those? I'm going to order a backup regardless just in case.
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Post by devo344a on Aug 15, 2013 8:45:33 GMT -5
In stead of jb weld for the gasket use the red silicone it works good if you let it dry some first
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Post by sailracer on Aug 15, 2013 9:58:37 GMT -5
[replyingto=ckizer]ckizer[/replyingto]Just watch the pilot bit carefully while drilling. When steel shavings stop and aluminum appears, STOP THERE. It's very easy to see. best to use a drill press, you should be able to feel the transition. ;D
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Post by ckizer on Aug 16, 2013 9:02:27 GMT -5
New Muffler has been installed. Will post pictures at lunchtime. Great trick if your exhaust studs break: use a course American threaded screw in the 6mm exhaust hole that has broken threads. Super tight and has stayed that way for 40miles! I will however be drilling them out to 8mm this week when new performance gaskets arrive. Thanks to everyone of who gave me tips. With bench drill I have to take my scooter apart? So this whole time I've been driving there were two missing exhaust frame mount bolts. I didn't know this was why the scooter felt like riding a 10 speed on gravel. After my fall last week I was beginning to think scooters were for me. Anyway replace muffler and put in two bolts, and suddenly the scooter is smooth as glass. The original bolts didn't come with it when I purchased. I would love to see what they looked like. Here's the bolts I'm talking about.  My old muffler had a broken off underside mount that hooked it to the spoke coming out of where the wheel axil is, new muffler has some additional strange bolts, but I can't figure what to hook on. Will video it and my new muffler at lunch! Thanks so much for all the pro tips. I'm going to start the REDESIGN of the scooter outside, paint, fiberglass panels, and amazing electrical mods and lighting and will be sharing pictures, and asking question in a community effort. Would love to see a picture of taotao 150cc frame if anyone has it! Let's MOD together! 
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