|
|
Post by wilds on Sept 4, 2013 9:54:28 GMT -5
President Obama is visiting Sweden!  I think we in Sweden should be honored with the visit... I managed to capture this picture of flightradar24 with Air Force One just before the landing.  The plane was not visible on flightradar24 before this. The Pilot probably started the transponder just before the landing. It will probably never happen again. So I'll have to keep this image... |
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 30, 2013 14:35:37 GMT -5
You can test by using a jumper cable from the postive pole on the battery to the cable-connection on the starter.
If that runs the starter properly then check cable connection from battery to solenoid, from solenoid to starter and check the frame ground.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 29, 2013 6:00:57 GMT -5
[replyingto=t150]T150[/replyingto]If you squeeze the fastners tight and stick them to the metal frame on the inside they would remain on that frame even if the screws fall out. Double safty if you glue the fastners onto the metal frame also  |
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 29, 2013 0:47:56 GMT -5
Nice work!
The only thing I can think of changing on your set-up is the screws holding the filter. I would screw them in from the other side.
If they would vibrate loose as they are now, they could be sucked into the carburetor.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 29, 2013 0:35:19 GMT -5
You can also use the multimeter to check how much voltage you have at the startmotor when you try to start it.
That way you see how much the voltage has dropped from the battery, if it's to low it would give you the symptoms you have.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 28, 2013 0:07:05 GMT -5
Often the Chinese MC/mopeds original battery cables copper core are often ridiculously thin and can not transfer enough power. It's only the plastic around the cable which is a little thicker.  I changed my cables to better ones and that cured my starting problems. |
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 22, 2013 6:51:11 GMT -5
I think replacing the belt will be enough...
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 19, 2013 4:04:25 GMT -5
It depends on what engine case you have. I believe you wil have to messure the bore in the case first.
And I suspect that the biggest cylinder you can use is a 160 cc which is about 61,8 mm in diameter without boring the case.
If you already running a 150 cc it would not make much difference changing it to 160 cc!
170 cc has an outer diameter of about 63,5 mm.
175 cc has an outer diameter of about 64,5 mm.
180 cc has an outer diameter of about 65,1 mm.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 18, 2013 23:19:48 GMT -5
The above would be in a situation where the carb is jetted correctly. Would the same still hold true if the jets are too lean? I set my idle at ~2k RPM. Perhaps I should reset it on a hot engine at ~1200RPM. It should be correct even with a lean carb. I would set the idle around 1500RPM |
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 18, 2013 4:46:45 GMT -5
Sorry, I might of been unclear there.
English is not my native tounge. I'll try to explain again.
And it's never good to run lean, the engine will reach higher temps running lean... You can also move the clip on the throttle needle down a step, that would make it run a bit more richer.
Keep the warmed up engine runing on idle (whatever idle you have).
Then slowly in small steps turn the AF screw to a point where you reach the highest idle.
When that is done, adjust to a proper idle with the idle screw.
After that try twisting the throttle to see if the engine response is right.
Take it out for a test drive and see if it still is ok.
Let it cool down and try starting it and see if the problem is fixed.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 17, 2013 0:56:05 GMT -5
Just so you will be able to go back to your original position!
Check how many turns out from bottom position the AF screw is now before you try the below.
After the engine is properly warmed up, put the bike on the center stand and keep it on idle.
Turn the AF screw slowly in small steps either way until you reach the maximum rpm.
Default would be about 2-2½ turns out from bottom position.
After you have the maximum rpm, set the idle with the idle screw.
Let the engine cool down and try starting it and see if it helped.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 16, 2013 0:10:51 GMT -5
I have a bored case
3mm stroker crank
62mm ceramic cylinder
30&26 mm valves cylinder head
28 mm Fuel injection EFI-Kit
A12 cam
Changed final gearing
Performance variator
Custom built exhaust from Akunar in Thailand
Oil cooler
12" wheels
I just found a speed converter and used it since we in Sweden use km/h. These are the numbers i hit with my mods:
I can keep 65-70 mph on flat ground.
But as soon as there's a head wind or uphill it drops to 60-65 mph
Downhill it hits 75-78 mph. But that is not so convenient...
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 15, 2013 6:49:17 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 15, 2013 0:24:20 GMT -5
Unfortunately I have no pictures of it but I broke two ribs, kneecap broken in two parts and a lot of bruises when I crashed last year.
Was unconscious for about 5 minutes, luckily I had a good helmet!
I do not know how your scooter looks but on mine the ignition key is mounted so it's more like a knife pointing straight at the knee when riding.
|
|
|
|
Post by wilds on Aug 15, 2013 0:05:52 GMT -5
This one might be useful  |
|
