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Post by prodigit on Apr 30, 2013 16:25:54 GMT -5
Full synthetic is made from the ground up, and does not come from pumping up from the earth. Not according to Valvoline. Do really seriously believe the get pure carbon and hydrogen and make their own oil?? All they do is split, combine, and refine existing oil to synthesize their desired molecule. The article you linked doesn't address the production process at all... I've read an article a long time ago about the process on rebuilding the carbon strings in crackers. I think (but am not sure) they make it of some kind of gasoline or gas; keep it at certain temperatures, and the molecules will form strings. That way you get the purest oil you can think of; no impurities. I found the website on google, a while ago, but since it's been so long, I don't remember the address anymore. |
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Post by prodigit on Apr 30, 2013 7:16:06 GMT -5
I wonder if rolling a bit of paper tape around the handle would do the trick?
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Post by prodigit on Apr 30, 2013 7:10:49 GMT -5
most of the oil changes on these scooters are done because of impurities, not because the oil is worn. In many cases you could run 5k miles on a scoot with the oil before it would be somewhat worn, but the oil would have so much impurities in it, that wear your engine, that it doesn't make sense to change it when the oil is no longer functioning.
A friend of mine bought a Honda Camino scooter, used it for almost 10 years, without ever doing an oil change, before it started to give in. The oil was almost like mud due to the impurities.
especially during the break in, metal flakes are the main ingredient of the impurities. After that, blowback exhaust gasses, that enter the crankcase between the piston rings and the cylinder walls
And last, corrosion, acids due to water, and other kind of chemical wear.
In modern day cars, where engine tolerances are a fraction of these chinese scoot engines, there's a lot less of these impurities in the engine block per gallon of oil, and that means that in those engines oil needs to be changed when it's worn. even then, most engine oil in car engines still has at least 50% of life left.
Synthetic blend oil is priced the same price as dino oil (like perhaps upto ~$5 difference per gallon). Full synthetic is as you say, significantly more expensive.
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Post by prodigit on Apr 30, 2013 2:04:06 GMT -5
Ok, here's what I was trying to say: There seem to be 3 types of engine oil, not 2. 1- Dino 2- Synthetic Blend 3- Full Synthetic Dino we know. Synthetic blend is as you say, dino oil with added sythetic oil. Full synthetic is made from the ground up, and does not come from pumping up from the earth. The three types of oil are explained in a lot of articles online, including this one : www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/products/1266801 |
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 20:49:29 GMT -5
The one on my TaoTao smelled like rubber too. After 2 weeks not anymore.
I let it stand outside, in the sun and the rain. I'm sure that has something to do with removing the smell.
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 20:48:10 GMT -5
You can temporarily wrap the fuse in a layer of aluminum foil. Not the best solution, but good enough to make it work, until your new fuse arrives! I was hoping you'd say the scooter runs great riding @ 40 MPH backwards!  |
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 19:43:38 GMT -5
I love that smell of rubber!
it will go away though it'll take a while.
I don't know if there are any chemical products that could help (you can try pet or smoke odor remover, see if it helps).
Other than that, just keep on riding with good gloves (leather, or even cloth gloves should not let any smell come through).
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 18:35:28 GMT -5
It all depends on a lot of factors. 10W40 would be your standard engine oil for hotter climates, and aircooled engines.
10W30 is better for colder climates, and watercooled engines.
From there change oil type on every oil change, and see/feel/experience how the scoot does.
For instance, I equip my 150cc with 15W40, because it's air cooled, and powerful enough for me anyway.
My 50cc runs a little rough on 10W30, and very smooth on 10W40. I found it runs even better when I mix 10W30 and 15W40.
But it all takes time, and finding out what suits your bike best.
That being said, you can't really go wrong with 10W40, unless you're with a watercooled scooter in Alaska or something.
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 15:38:32 GMT -5
I've read an interesting article a few months ago by an oil engineer.
Synthetic oil in the stores, is basically 70% or so dino oil, with less than 30% true synthetic oil in.
True synthetic oil is not dug from the ground, and filtered, like dino oil, but created molecule by molecule. That process is much more expensive than the way regular dino oil is harvested.
The oil is like 99.9% pure, while dino or synthetic oil has some impurities in them.
And like said, the viscosity of synthetic oil is more consistent, regardless of temperature; while the viscosity of dino oil is variable depending on temperature.
I'd use synthetic from day one; depending on watercooled or air cooled go with 10W30, or 10W40, those are the most common engine oils
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 11:30:17 GMT -5
also check your fuel and vacuum hose clips.
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 11:29:05 GMT -5
What '50' are you talking about?
50 on the speedo, or 50 on the GPS?
I believe you, because my TaoTao does 47-48MPH average, with a little wind in the back it surpasses 50MPH on the GPS. Downhill (down a long bridge) it goes almost 60MPH.
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 11:22:32 GMT -5
the problem with a starter is that you can't apply ohm's law.
Because the resistance changes depending on how fast the starter is rotating.
With a lower voltage, theoretically, amp draw will be lower, starter will rotate slower, which causes each electro magnet to be loaded longer. There's no direct correlation between lower voltage, and burning a starter, unless the starter is not able to turn over the engine, and the same electro magnet gets energized too long (a starter exists out of a few sets of electro magnets, each getting powered up after the other).
The higher the voltage, the higher the amp draw, the higher the resistance that the starter has to face, the more power the whole system draws. The more power, the more heat draw.
So a burned starter you can have by either overvoltage, or undervoltage, where the starter is not able to turn over the engine, and power is applied for a long time.
And carasdad, you get to work on my nerves too. You can not agree to disagree. I never attack you personally, I just post my opinions and thoughts on what I learn, and the only thing you do is attack me personally, and that's NOT good for a forum. So I'd like to ask you to stop that!
If not, I'll ask moderators to tell you to stop attacking people, just because they have different opinions than you.
I never mention your name, I never even refer to you in my posts, yet you constantly are whining about me attacking you.
It's not the first time you do this, on the previous forum too.
Like I said before, it's in YOUR head, get a life, and learn to agree to disagree!
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Post by prodigit on Apr 29, 2013 11:09:19 GMT -5
I change mine at 50, 150, 300, 600 and 1000 km on the odo meter.
Then every consecutive 1000km's.
I find at 1000km, the oil is still good. At 1600km (1000 miles), the oil is more black (in a worse condition).
So far, my gear oil hasn't been changed much.
I change gear oil after the first 150 or 300km. Then every 3000km.
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Post by prodigit on Apr 28, 2013 15:59:17 GMT -5
May also be a bit of rust.
When that happens, I just stop and start again. usually from the second or third time, the starter engages.
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Post by prodigit on Apr 28, 2013 15:57:38 GMT -5
Mobil actually recommends it's mobil 1 oil for break in. It's labeled synthetic oil, but in actuallity, you won't find a quart of real synthetic oil in most stores. Most stores only sell the semi-synthetic oils, meaning they;re a mix of dino and synthetic.
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