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Post by jerseyboy on Sept 14, 2015 19:23:00 GMT -5
Yeah,the Taida stuff is awesome,,my cheap Taiwan BBK is still kicking butt man,,best $165 I ever spent!!
Cant wait to hear and see this puppy rip roar!!
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 14, 2015 19:27:46 GMT -5
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Post by horace on Sept 14, 2015 19:51:28 GMT -5
No worries, I think this is a VERY neat project!!!!!!
Just wondering if there was any relation to a different company..............
I see that I was mistaken in asking such questions, My apology...
I can only assume asking for a build tally is out of the question also...
Again My apology for getting two companies confused......
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Post by horace on Sept 14, 2015 20:06:36 GMT -5
Most anyone can purchase "off the shelf" parts and build an engine.....
The real cost comes with installation and skill level,
I do hope this becomes a reliable daily driver at a decent price.....
PLEASE keep us updated as the final product, It should be a REALLY nice ride....... I meant no disrespect!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 14, 2015 23:03:03 GMT -5
Most anyone can purchase "off the shelf" parts and build an engine..... The real cost comes with installation and skill level, I do hope this becomes a reliable daily driver at a decent price..... PLEASE keep us updated as the final product, It should be a REALLY nice ride....... I meant no disrespect!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh, none taken! I'm getting really anxious as he nears the end of the build! Can't wait! |
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Post by ricardoguitars on Sept 15, 2015 0:48:18 GMT -5
Most anyone can purchase "off the shelf" parts and build an engine..... The real cost comes with installation and skill level, I do hope this becomes a reliable daily driver at a decent price..... PLEASE keep us updated as the final product, It should be a REALLY nice ride....... I meant no disrespect!!!!!!!!!!!! Oh, none taken! I'm getting really anxious as he nears the end of the build! Can't wait! Is of your best interest to record and post a video of the test run, GPS included, or we will have you banned! Just kidding, lol  I saw the videos, I'm jealous, that looks so cool.  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 15, 2015 13:56:57 GMT -5
No worries, I think this is a VERY neat project!!!!!! Just wondering if there was any relation to a different company.............. I see that I was mistaken in asking such questions, My apology... I can only assume asking for a build tally is out of the question also... Again My apology for getting two companies confused...... OK, here is what I feel comfortable saying; From my research, Martin's was (by far) the best supplier for the actual Taida hardware. Maybe that's because he is the official Distributor .. I can't say. Anyway, his prices are (from what i could find) impossible to match elsewhere. But here is what OTHERS are charging for the same build: 1. Basic kit (crankcase, jug, head, cam, etc.): $729 www.gy6store.com/TAIDA-190CC-SHORT-CASE-63MM-CLASS-B-BLOCK-COMPLETE-REBUILD-SET-GY6-A-01.htm2. Crankshaft: $170 www.gy6store.com/TAIDA-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-MODEL-3000-608mm-STROKER-CRANKSHAFT-CS-3000.htm?categoryId=-1NOTE: You must get the right crank for the piston size selected for the assembly to be properly balanced 3. Oil Cooler: $180 www.gy6store.com/TAIDA-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-GY6-OIL-COOLER-RADIATOR-ONLY-TAIDA-HIGH-OIL-COOLER-RADIATOR.htm?categoryId=-1and www.gy6store.com/TAIDA-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-GY6-OIL-COOLER-HOSE-AND-FITTINGS-ONLY-TAIDA-OIL-COOLER-HOSE-FITTINGS.htm?categoryId=-14. Misc: Starter clutch MUST be upgraded ... high flow oil pump also. You will need a high torque starter motor if you do not already have one. Transmission gearing will probably need to be changed. You probably have (but absolutely need) high flow intake/exhaust, and a large carb. I have a decent (Dr Pulley) variator, but will need to upgrade the clutch. Silly to not upgrade the seals and bearings. I already had a 12-pole stator, but Martin's is upgrading that to an 18-pole. That is just for the parts ---- not including any assembly cost. So this is in no way similar to a $250 FleaBay 150cc Gy6 ChinaEngine ... |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 16, 2015 14:04:20 GMT -5
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Post by jerseyboy on Sept 17, 2015 12:23:17 GMT -5
Just watched the last video and he never mentioned anything about ring end gap and clocking,,the end gap is super important especially on the compression rings...Im sure he did it just saying  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 17, 2015 15:09:28 GMT -5
Just watched the last video and he never mentioned anything about ring end gap and clocking,,the end gap is super important especially on the compression rings...Im sure he did it just saying Yeah, that was about the only step in the build that was not shown on camera. I suppose it's worth asking about, just to make sure. Easy enough for me to take the head off and do so if by some chance this got skipped, though I can't imagine it was. But worth asking about just as an insurance policy. Peretty neat watching the build, huh! |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2015 16:14:44 GMT -5
Just watched the last video and he never mentioned anything about ring end gap and clocking,,the end gap is super important especially on the compression rings...Im sure he did it just saying Enlighten us. Big gap? how big? small gap? how small? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 17, 2015 16:38:57 GMT -5
Just watched the last video and he never mentioned anything about ring end gap and clocking,,the end gap is super important especially on the compression rings...Im sure he did it just saying Enlighten us. Big gap? how big? small gap? how small? Are you asking Joisey, or is that for Martin's? |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2015 16:59:34 GMT -5
Enlighten us. Big gap? how big? small gap? how small? Are you asking Joisey, or is that for Martin's? Joisey |
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Post by rcq92130 on Sept 17, 2015 19:21:19 GMT -5
Wait! P-guy, you are the resident expert on this. Are you saying it is NOT important to check ring gap when installing a new piston/jug? I forgot to on my first BBK, and always suspected the fit was too tight, leading to the soft seize I had 800 miles later. Is that wrong, and checking the gap (and adjusting it) isn't really important?
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2015 19:56:25 GMT -5
Wait! P-guy, you are the resident expert on this. Are you saying it is NOT important to check ring gap when installing a new piston/jug? I forgot to on my first BBK, and always suspected the fit was too tight, leading to the soft seize I had 800 miles later. Is that wrong, and checking the gap (and adjusting it) isn't really important? I'm Jackin with joisey. Dan and I have already discussed this earlier today. www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/254-61mm-pistons-taida-cast-vs-ncy-cast-vs-taida-forged-high-comp/I was gunna go over it but we/I covered this more in depth in the above. I might add with the Piston to Cylinder Clearance and how it relates to different Ring end Gaps. If I have .0018 piston to cylinder and .030 (wow) end gap in a 2.250 bore can't show me nuthin on a leak down, psi or dyno. Now .005 Piston to Cylinder and I have .030 gap is a Slightly different story. Other than too tight sand the ends butting together it is a Very Much Over Rated Subject.  |
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