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Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 9, 2015 22:53:42 GMT -5
They have 63cc top ends for sale, too, with the 44mm piston.
EDIT: NEVERMIND, lol
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Post by geh3333 on Mar 9, 2015 23:14:01 GMT -5
Did u look on eBay ? They are usually pretty cheap , around 30 bucks or so . an impact is pretty Mich a necessity. U will have a heck of a time removing the variator and clutch without it. Here is a 20mm fro 30bucks free shipping , and it has an accelerator pump . Sorry I forgot to post the address. m.ebay.com/itm/141413084072?nav=SEARCH |
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 10, 2015 0:56:37 GMT -5
Keihin is a great carb, so good that there are tons of clones (even the special "K" stamp gets cloned, it's hard to protect designs in China), and even the clones are fine. 19mm will be fine with the proper jetting, it's what I have on my yellow scooter.
If there is a Harbor Freight near you, you can get a 12v impact wrench you can run off your scooter battery (or any automotive battery for that matter). I keep one under my seat with a spare belt, I'll never be stuck on the side of the road due to a belt breaking!
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Post by geh3333 on Mar 10, 2015 3:19:15 GMT -5
Keihin is a great carb, so good that there are tons of clones (even the special "K" stamp gets cloned, it's hard to protect designs in China), and even the clones are fine. 19mm will be fine with the proper jetting, it's what I have on my yellow scooter. If there is a Harbor Freight near you, you can get a 12v impact wrench you can run off your scooter battery (or any automotive battery for that matter). I keep one under my seat with a spare belt, I'll never be stuck on the side of the road due to a belt breaking! That's true , a bigger card is not a necessity , but for how cheap they are why not. It would be nice to have some feed back on the difference the 20mm may or may not have compared To the stock carb . also it is nice to have a back up just in case the you ever need one. Bigger card ! ? Carb that is. |
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 10, 2015 5:20:13 GMT -5
Keihin is a great carb, so good that there are tons of clones (even the special "K" stamp gets cloned, it's hard to protect designs in China), and even the clones are fine. 19mm will be fine with the proper jetting, it's what I have on my yellow scooter. If there is a Harbor Freight near you, you can get a 12v impact wrench you can run off your scooter battery (or any automotive battery for that matter). I keep one under my seat with a spare belt, I'll never be stuck on the side of the road due to a belt breaking! That's true , a bigger card is not a necessity , but for how cheap they are why not. It would be nice to have some feed back on the difference the 20mm may or may not have compared To the stock carb . also it is nice to have a back up just in case the you ever need one. All true, but please keep the OP's statement about spending in mind: What kind of budget do you have for this project? Do you want to just get it running with a few problems, or a reliable working order? I would like to have it in reliable working order but I do not have $300 to spend on it right now. I already spent $400 on it if there is a way to minimize my cost I would like to go that way. Our experiments should be done at our own expense. |
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Post by geh3333 on Mar 10, 2015 7:52:37 GMT -5
I know what you mean , its just nice to see if others have similar results .
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Post by ramblinman on Mar 10, 2015 10:57:34 GMT -5
if it was my scoot i wouldn't buy any new parts unless i knew they were bad. new piston and cylinder is fine, they are cheap enough but you could clean up the old piston as long as you don't see any scratches on the cylinder, just my opinion. soak in wd40 and you can get most of the carbon off.
new parts are fun but they are not always necessary. this scoot only has a 1,000 miles on it and from the looks of it the only problem is it was running rich. put it together and try to get it started imo. then we can trouble shoot what parts may need to be ordered.
also, someone mentioned checking the crankshaft to see if it has any play. if you haven't done that yet, i think it is fairly important. edit: since you already have the piston removed.
good luck, i'll be keeping the rest of my opinions to myself, plenty of better scooter mechanics on this site than me.
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 10, 2015 11:08:21 GMT -5
if it was my scoot i wouldn't buy any new parts unless i knew they were bad. new piston and cylinder is fine, they are cheap enough but you could clean up the old piston as long as you don't see any scratches on the cylinder, just my opinion. soak in wd40 and you can get most of the carbon off. new parts are fun but they are not always necessary. this scoot only has a 1,000 miles on it and from the looks of it the only problem is it was running rich. put it together and try to get it started imo. then we can trouble shoot what parts may need to be ordered. also, someone mentioned checking the crankshaft to see if it has any play. if you haven't done that yet, i think it is fairly important. good luck, i'll be keeping the rest of my opinions to myself, plenty of better scooter mechanics on this site than me. You are 100% correct,,she can get away with cleaning the piston real good with a soft brass brush and some cleaner,,she will need new rings and a hone though....one of my new favorite tools is a leak down tester,,it will tell you so much,,from valves,head,rings,gaskets,seals,all of that in one tool,,I made my own from a Harbor Freight compression tester a few fittings and a air pressure regulator.A must have for any serious small engine tech or hobbyist IMO. BTW-Head nuts get torqued back in a crisscross pattern to about 17ft lbs....some say 20 but man,,mine where starting to twist anymore than 16-17. Thats plenty. |
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Post by gift on Mar 10, 2015 11:38:56 GMT -5
if it was my scoot i wouldn't buy any new parts unless i knew they were bad. new piston and cylinder is fine, they are cheap enough but you could clean up the old piston as long as you don't see any scratches on the cylinder, just my opinion. soak in wd40 and you can get most of the carbon off. new parts are fun but they are not always necessary. this scoot only has a 1,000 miles on it and from the looks of it the only problem is it was running rich. put it together and try to get it started imo. then we can trouble shoot what parts may need to be ordered. also, someone mentioned checking the crankshaft to see if it has any play. if you haven't done that yet, i think it is fairly important. good luck, i'll be keeping the rest of my opinions to myself, plenty of better scooter mechanics on this site than me. I will definitely clean the old piston and keep everything as my spare parts. I have not checked the crankshaft yet. I will need to look up for YouTube video on how to do that first lol. Thank you for your suggestions and wishes. I am willing to learn more on this if you could give me any opinions/comments/suggestions, I will really appreciate it. And I am sure everyone here welcomes other opinions too. |
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Post by ramblinman on Mar 10, 2015 12:31:47 GMT -5
I will definitely clean the old piston and keep everything as my spare parts. I have not checked the crankshaft yet. I will need to look up for YouTube video on how to do that first lol. Thank you for your suggestions and wishes. I am willing to learn more on this if you could give me any opinions/comments/suggestions, I will really appreciate it. And I am sure everyone here welcomes other opinions too. well OK, i won't stay silent if you're not getting the info you need. i just don't want to add to the confusion. not sure if you will find a video. i believe they have special tools to determine the exact amount of play but i think you can just grab the rod and try to move it both in/out and side to side. if it has any noticeable play then you have real trouble. |
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Post by gift on Mar 10, 2015 12:43:01 GMT -5
Thanks, I understand you now and the crankshaft insepction you mentioned sounds easier to do but I think will need help on that. I will try this tonight and record video while I'm inspecting it and post it here.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 10, 2015 14:18:59 GMT -5
If you use the old piston and jug, you can probably carry the jug to a local auto shop and ask them to hone it for you, takes a minute, just a quick in and out with the honing tool a few times. They may even do it for free if you explain your situation to them, it's that easy of a job, just need the right tool.
The hardest part for first timers is getting the rings into the jug when installing everything. Get a hose clamp that will fit around the piston and rings, use it to compress the rings with the top of the piston sticking out. Push the top of the piston into the jug (already attached to the crank), then tap the jug down with a rubber mallet or hammer with some padding on the jug. It will push the hose clamp down and let the rings slide right in, saving your hands in the process.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Mar 10, 2015 15:13:53 GMT -5
Note how he holds the rod-- the end opposite of the piston location should not be moving in that manner. His rod bearing is toast. EDIT: it's worth checking, even at those miles, since the only way to check for rod bearing play is with everything off.
It's also worth noting that you should be able to start the scoot with the old cylinder, piston/rings, assuming that's not the problem. It may be worth troubleshooting it that way before throwing new parts on it. It MAY.
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Post by gift on Mar 10, 2015 17:29:45 GMT -5
I just checked mine roughly from outside. It does not move like the toasted one in the other video so I hope that is a good sign. I also tried turning the fan again and see it moves you can see at the second part of the video. I am going to take more pictures of the cylinder and post it here too. Thanks  |
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Post by gift on Mar 10, 2015 18:00:41 GMT -5
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