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Post by shalomdawg on Nov 3, 2014 17:10:24 GMT -5
howdy, i guess you missed my point which is just because the tire says it is a tubeless tire doesn't mean it has no tube inside. if the wheel was designed for a tube type tire, it is not possible to mount a tubeless tire without a tube inside because it won't hold air. i'm mostly full of hot air, so check it out before you buy another tire. you may as well not buy a tubeless tire if it will need a tube anyway.
lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 17:58:55 GMT -5
Thanks. It's a tubeless rim.
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Post by geh3333 on Nov 3, 2014 23:21:28 GMT -5
I just recently changed both tires on my scoot . I went with a taller tire , from 130-60-13 to 130-70-13 . There is no way I'd be able to go any taller because the rear wheel is now about a half inch or so away from the rear of the engine block . And I also had to modify the front fender by raising it slightly so the tire would not rub . Overall I love the bigger tire look and it should give me a slight top end increase . I'll know when I get my speedo cable on and go on a few runs . Also I was able to remove and install the new tires myself , just used a little grease to help slide the tire on and off the rim .
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Post by scooter on Nov 3, 2014 23:58:52 GMT -5
I just recently changed both tires on my scoot . I went with a taller tire , from 130-60-13 to 130-70-13 . There is no way I'd be able to go any taller because the rear wheel is now about a half inch or so away from the rear of the engine block . And I also had to modify the front fender by raising it slightly so the tire would not rub . Overall I love the bigger tire look and it should give me a slight top end increase . I'll know when I get my speedo cable on and go on a few runs . Also I was able to remove and install the new tires myself , just used a little grease to help slide to tire on and off the rim . That's excellent! I was hoping a taller tire would make my Chinometer more accurate but I just realized the front tire is the one that runs the speedo. I ordered the 80 instead of the 70 sidewall. I hope I don't end up over geared, but at least I have variator shims for that situation. If all goes well I might order a new front tire too. Is it safe to put grease on your mating surfaces?
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Post by geh3333 on Nov 4, 2014 0:32:36 GMT -5
You mainly need the grease for installing the tires . You don't need a ton of it just enough to lightly coat the part of the tire that comes in contact with the rim . I never had a problem with it . I've also seen it done many times , so I would imagine it will be fine .
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Post by spandi on Nov 4, 2014 1:15:47 GMT -5
I used a plastic flexible tube over the valve stem poured them in and gently blew using a light breath. (worked in a jiffy)
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Post by scooter on Nov 4, 2014 1:33:10 GMT -5
ok here you go, These tire sizes are driving me nuts. It says on one page I'm looking at that if there is no aspect ratio given then it might be assumed to be 82. so a 4.0-12 would be 102/82-12. That would make the tire 12 inches in diameter plus .82*102mm=83.64mm then *2 = 167mm plus 12 inches so that's 6.6"+12"=18.6 inches, right? That's simple enough. So my old rear tire is 120/70-12=0.7*120mm=84mm*2=168mm=6.6"+12"= 18.6 inches in diameter, and my new rear tire will be 120/80-12 = .8*120mm=96mm*2=192mm=7.56"+12"= 19.6 inches in diameter, I think, and my old front tire is 18.6 inches. Now the rear rim is an MT3.5*J12 and the front rim is an MT2.75*J12. so, I don't know what that means as far as what tire would go on the front. Can I use the same 120/80-12 or does it have to be sized like the other one at, I don't know, 19.6-12=7.6"/2=3.8"/.82=4.6? Do I need a 4.6-12 front tire? This is way too complicated.
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Post by rockynv on Nov 4, 2014 5:11:03 GMT -5
Wheels that are balanced using weights go out of balance as the tire wears down. This doesn't happen with DynaBeads or RideOn . Has anyone tried either product? Yes I have and they do not work all the time and do go out of balance on chatter bumps which when that happens requires you to come to a complete stop so the beads can be redistributed when you start off again. Spin balancing first is the only way you will know if you can use the beads as the balancer will indicate if the tire requires different weights on each side to balance it which is a condition that the beads do not compensate for.
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Post by rockynv on Nov 4, 2014 5:15:05 GMT -5
You mainly need the grease for installing the tires . You don't need a ton of it just enough to lightly coat the part of the tire that comes in contact with the rim . I never had a problem with it . I've also seen it done many times , so I would imagine it will be fine . You are not supposed to use grease or petroleum based lubricants on a tire bead only a mild soap and water solution should be used to lubricate the bead for installing tires. Grease deteriorates the rubber used on tires.
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Post by geh3333 on Nov 4, 2014 7:44:44 GMT -5
Considering my tires usually only last a season and a half maybe it won't matter .. I let you know if I have any probes . Thanks
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Post by surfpick on Nov 4, 2014 9:36:52 GMT -5
Wheels that are balanced using weights go out of balance as the tire wears down. This doesn't happen with DynaBeads or RideOn . Has anyone tried either product? Yes I have and they do not work all the time and do go out of balance on chatter bumps which when that happens requires you to come to a complete stop so the beads can be redistributed when you start off again. Spin balancing first is the only way you will know if you can use the beads as the balancer will indicate if the tire requires different weights on each side to balance it which is a condition that the beads do not compensate for. I am trying to research a bit more & yes, even the dynabeads website says that they're not recommended for a "lateral imbalance" requiring weights on opposite sides. I have not found anything regarding bumps requiring a complete stop? The beads lay in the bottom of the tire until you reach about 30mph & drop back to the bottom when you reduce speed to below 25mph. When they are in position, they are still in a dynamic flowing situation & even if a bump disturbs them, they should immediately return to the optimum locations. Where did you get that info? The biggest problem people complain about is that they can get stuck in the valve, causing a deflation. This can be corrected by giving a blast of air. There are also various techniques to avoid the problem happening in the first place and also core filters for about $1.50 each. General consensus seems to be that the ride becomes smooth as glass, cupping is eliminated & tire life is extended.
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Post by rcq92130 on Nov 4, 2014 10:37:46 GMT -5
Have about 1,300 miles on Dynabeads in my scooter. The ride is smooth -- but i don't have any "pre-dynabead miles" to compare against since i added the beads when the bike was new. Adding them is a non issue - at least it was for me.
Have 2 new tires to put on my Goldwing ... and Dynabeads sitting on the table waiting .... so I'll soon have a better comparison. My Harley friends are waiting to know. But that will be too late to help you, I suppose.
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Post by ccr on Nov 4, 2014 19:11:33 GMT -5
ok here you go, These tire sizes are driving me nuts. It says on one page I'm looking at that if there is no aspect ratio given then it might be assumed to be 82. so a 4.0-12 would be 102/82-12. That would make the tire 12 inches in diameter plus .82*102mm=83.64mm then *2 = 167mm plus 12 inches so that's 6.6"+12"=18.6 inches, right? That's simple enough. So my old rear tire is 120/70-12=0.7*120mm=84mm*2=168mm=6.6"+12"= 18.6 inches in diameter, and my new rear tire will be 120/80-12 = .8*120mm=96mm*2=192mm=7.56"+12"= 19.6 inches in diameter, I think, and my old front tire is 18.6 inches. Now the rear rim is an MT3.5*J12 and the front rim is an MT2.75*J12. so, I don't know what that means as far as what tire would go on the front. Can I use the same 120/80-12 or does it have to be sized like the other one at, I don't know, 19.6-12=7.6"/2=3.8"/.82=4.6? Do I need a 4.6-12 front tire? This is way too complicated.wow, you completely lost me there. let me draw you a diagram to easily explain it
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Post by rockynv on Nov 4, 2014 19:19:56 GMT -5
Yes I have and they do not work all the time and do go out of balance on chatter bumps which when that happens requires you to come to a complete stop so the beads can be redistributed when you start off again. Spin balancing first is the only way you will know if you can use the beads as the balancer will indicate if the tire requires different weights on each side to balance it which is a condition that the beads do not compensate for. I am trying to research a bit more & yes, even the dynabeads website says that they're not recommended for a "lateral imbalance" requiring weights on opposite sides. I have not found anything regarding bumps requiring a complete stop? The beads lay in the bottom of the tire until you reach about 30mph & drop back to the bottom when you reduce speed to below 25mph. When they are in position, they are still in a dynamic flowing situation & even if a bump disturbs them, they should immediately return to the optimum locations. Where did you get that info? The biggest problem people complain about is that they can get stuck in the valve, causing a deflation. This can be corrected by giving a blast of air. There are also various techniques to avoid the problem happening in the first place and also core filters for about $1.50 each. General consensus seems to be that the ride becomes smooth as glass, cupping is eliminated & tire life is extended. On my 4 wheelers I get lifetime spin balancing with rotation and nationwide road hazard service which has served me the best. The two times I chanced the beads they did not work. The tire shop that finally spun balanced the tires told me that while they do install the beads they only do it after they put the tire on a spin balancer to see if the tire and rim combination is a viable candidate for them. The beads can also get stuck to any tire patches (a tire patch or plug leaves a raised area that the beads can not flow into along with a sticky area where the cement forms a ring around them that can trap the beads so they can no longer flow) and of course you won't be able to use any slime, bead sealant or flat fix once the beads are installed. The tire also can not have any interior ridges from the mold segments either. The claim that the beads are indestructible also did not hold true as one set broke apart and left a mess to clean up however I do not remember if that was Equal or Dynabeads.
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Post by surfpick on Nov 4, 2014 19:34:12 GMT -5
The claim that the beads are indestructible also did not hold true as one set broke apart and left a mess to clean up however I do not remember if that was Equal or Dynabeads. The reusability claim is also not eternal. Their website answers the question; "Can I reuse my Dynabeads?" with; "Sure! But only once."
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