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Post by ccr on Jul 30, 2015 22:05:29 GMT -5
Another update incoming. I started gathering all of the small things needed to finish the engine. cleaned everything. painted some parts too. Oil pump gear sealed the case halves and test fitted the cylinder and piston. piston at TDC its too high, so i need to add more gaskets at the bottom piston after adding gaskets
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Post by ccr on Jul 27, 2015 22:49:40 GMT -5
Well, its been almost a year, and its time for an update. The lack of funds has made me have to make difficult cutbacks on this project. But I will strive to complete this bike before September. So watch this space!!! firstly I have decided to reduce the engine size to a mere 130ccs and the cylinder head to only a 2valver. the cylinder is a 55mm watercooled aluminium casting. i was not happy with the 1mm thick skirt at the bottom, cut to fit the factory bore of the case. see example: so i bored out the case and lathed out the original cylinder liner! This presented another problem. as the liner did not sit perfectly central in the casting. further cutting had to be done and then an even thicker liner had to be inserted. the block was placed in an autoclave (a mans oven for cooking with metal) until it had expanded enough to allow the liner to fit. then it was cooled slowly over the course of about 3 hours to allow the aluminium to shrink around the liner without cracking or deformation. as with all block to liner mating, the liner will end up slightly off center and so its better to bore the liner to spec after its been mated. so all bored out and mated together honed and ready to roll. sorry, am i boring you? next update coming soon.
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Post by ccr on Jul 27, 2015 22:07:43 GMT -5
Your drawing of how the scooter may look is VERY impressive! Hope Yamaha sees this and offers you some freelance work in their styling department! umm it's been a while, and ... basicly, never trust yamaha, never trust a corporation. they will always steal your intellectual property i would like to introduce you to my... ...errr.. yamaha's latest product the BWS R see any resemblance to the scooter i was building before?
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Post by ccr on Jul 27, 2015 20:55:22 GMT -5
mediocre
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Post by ccr on Dec 21, 2014 0:31:07 GMT -5
unfortunately this happens very often on these scooters but it's a simple fix unless you have stripped out the aluminium threads
at this time it would be a wise decision to replace both exhaust studs and bolts and a new gasket if your old gasket has been compromised.
fortunately its jut a 15 minute fix to replace them. be careful not to strip the aluminium from the engine or you will be sending it to a machine shop to get it drilled out and thread repaired.
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Post by ccr on Dec 9, 2014 7:59:27 GMT -5
looks like a good kit, apart from one or 2 things. firstly the bottom of that cylinder skirt looks way too thin. from experience i know that it will surely get "wallowed out". secondly, when you are running any high rpm setup like that, get an oil cooler on it. it will pay off in the long run. www.facebook.com/partcooler/timelinethis company makes the best coolers in Taiwan.
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Post by ccr on Nov 30, 2014 16:57:11 GMT -5
you have to be very careful with dirty rainwater with that kind of setup, its not really about limiting engine performance with the stock box, it's more about making sure your combustion chamber doesn't get destroyed by contaminants. but it sure does make a difference without it. i wish they would make a forward facing carb scooter engine with a water trapping ram intake and sponge filter.
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Post by ccr on Nov 30, 2014 12:08:17 GMT -5
My Sunny 150cc - The wiring is the weak link My BMS Heritage 150cc - The Vacuum operated fuel pump My Bintelli Havoc(s) 150cc - I have not discovered a weak link. I can not brag enough about Bintelli scooters. They should be pulled from the Chinese class of scooters and moved into Taiwanese territory... It's up there with Yamaha and Honda IMO. It's as if someone took a Chinese scoot and said, how can we perfect it..... it's as if someone took a yamaha ZUMA (taiwanese/japanese)125 and put a gy6 (copy of a honda) engine on it. www.bloodygoodhorror.com/bgh/files/reviews/caps/vampires-kiss.jpg
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Post by ccr on Nov 28, 2014 16:48:49 GMT -5
time for an update i think. forks came back from the factory, new oil and seals. tested the wiring loom sent the case way to be bored out got a new engine hanger bracket
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Post by ccr on Nov 26, 2014 21:51:23 GMT -5
ccr According to one of the best 150cc head builders in the bis, a 2 port head can be made to have much larger valve ports than the combined size of a 4 port head. It has to do with the casting needing to make the additional ports and the small size of the actual head it'self. Also with a 4 port head you're available cam options are reduced. They just don't make very many 4 valve cams for the gy6 yet. Sourcing high RPM 2 valve heads that come with 1200 RPM valve springs and ti retainers is no problem. rcq92130 That was me to whom you've spoken to about the machining of the engine case. it's not about the flow, it's about the size of the 2 big valves compared to the 4 small ones. the 4 valves can operate at higher rpm and higher compression ratio because there's less chance of the valve hitting the piston when the spring can't return the bigger, heavier valve in time. I'm sure over here in Taiwan we have a gy6 compatible 4 valve head, since most of the scooters here (SYM KYMCO PGO) are based on the gy6 engine
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Post by ccr on Nov 26, 2014 2:00:57 GMT -5
if you are using your original crankshaft for a 180cc build, you will be building a high rpm setup. i think what you should be more worried about is finding a 4 valve cylinder head, forged piston, ceramic cylinder, forged connecting rod and have all of the crankshaft bearings replaced. you don't need to buy a new case to build a bigger engine in. just have your original case bored out. it's much simpler and cheaper. after all you dont want to buy all those parts and do a really big job of rebuilding it all and then have your connecting rod snap and your (chocolate) aluminium piston melt and hit the valves at high rpm do you? it's better to spend your money on a few high strength parts than a lot of weak ones that won't last 5 seconds of WOT without reducing their lifespan. for my 180cc build, i have decided on this: (this is for a yamaha 5SK engine, the Zuma's 10 inch cousin) firstly, cut the original case like this then get a CNC forged crankshaft - stroke 57.5mm and a water cooled 63mm ceramic cylinder. then top that off with a 4v high rpm cylinder head
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Post by ccr on Nov 24, 2014 13:29:06 GMT -5
captaincrunnk hi, so you want a basic gears 101 lesson? Then you're asking the right guy. lets start off with the typical scooter gearbox setup. your gearbox should look somewhat similar to this... beedspeed.com/html-pages/diagram-final.jpghere you see 2 sets of gears both converting lots of rpm with low torque into less rpm with higher torque in order to calculate your gearbox reduction ratio you will need to divide the first and second sets of gears and then multiply the answers together for example if my gearbox goes 15 teeth to 47 teeth and then 13 teeth to 39 teeth, 47/15= 3.133 and then 39/13= 3:1 then the answers 3.133x3= 9.399:1 so there we have it. this gearbox has a reduction of 9.399:1. that means when the driven shaft going into the box is turning at 9400rpm, the wheel will be turning at 1000rpm so what does all this relate to in the real world? you said you do a lot of high rpm riding. if you change the gearbox to give you a better reduction of about 8.xxx:1 then you will need less rpm to reach the same road speed, providing you have set your transmission up with heavier weights and your engine is giving enough torque. it's like a trade-off between engine speed and engine stress, too much rpm will kill the engine from overheating or a valve collision, and too much strain on the engine will snap a connecting rod or destroy the crankshaft bearings. too much rpm will overheat the transmission and melt the belt, and too much stress will snap it. on a stock engine, you should be able to run the engine a bit cooler with a bit more strain on the engine and transmission by reducing the gear ratio. but not by much. doing this kind of mod is mainly for people with high rpm builds that want to use their extra rpm to get a smoother takeoff, or high torque builds that would like to turn all that initial torque into wheel horsepower to get moving
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Post by ccr on Nov 23, 2014 12:30:51 GMT -5
I experimented a lot with cold air intakes here in Taiwan. The results were very promising. I have seen many different mods here for reducing air temperature. the best ones being of the ram air variety. if you really want to get cold air into your engine, you could always add an intercooler between the engine and the seat. you may have to make your seat space smaller or remove it completely www.elsberg-tuning.dk/satelissetup.jpg
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Post by ccr on Nov 22, 2014 7:16:12 GMT -5
you can order Taida products directly from them you know, td87185162@gmail.com [Fanny] or message her through Facebook here, www.facebook.com/TdTaiDa
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Post by ccr on Nov 20, 2014 4:01:48 GMT -5
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