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Post by ccr on Nov 5, 2014 8:33:06 GMT -5
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Post by ccr on Nov 5, 2014 4:41:39 GMT -5
just borrow an impact wrench for the price of a beer or two and fit a new transmission yourself in about 10 minutes.
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Post by ccr on Nov 5, 2014 3:09:11 GMT -5
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Post by ccr on Nov 4, 2014 19:11:33 GMT -5
ok here you go,  It says on one page I'm looking at that if there is no aspect ratio given then it might be assumed to be 82. so a 4.0-12 would be 102/82-12. That would make the tire 12 inches in diameter plus .82*102mm=83.64mm then *2 = 167mm plus 12 inches so that's 6.6"+12"=18.6 inches, right? That's simple enough.  So my old rear tire is 120/70-12=0.7*120mm=84mm*2=168mm=6.6"+12"= 18.6 inches in diameter, and my new rear tire will be 120/80-12 = .8*120mm=96mm*2=192mm=7.56"+12"= 19.6 inches in diameter, I think, and my old front tire is 18.6 inches. Now the rear rim is an MT3.5*J12 and the front rim is an MT2.75*J12. so, I don't know what that means as far as what tire would go on the front. Can I use the same 120/80-12 or does it have to be sized like the other one at, I don't know, 19.6-12=7.6"/2=3.8"/.82=4.6? Do I need a 4.6-12 front tire? This is way too complicated.wow, you completely lost me there. let me draw you a diagram to easily explain it  |
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Post by ccr on Nov 3, 2014 19:51:11 GMT -5
The L250R should have ABS brakes and fuel injection (user selectable fuel mapping with a range of presets for performance to economy modes would be a nice feature) Actually, a frame mounted engine (makes for less un-sprung weight) 300 to 350cc twin I think would offer a better reserve of power without taxing the engine too much for better highway performance, yet still be small and efficient enough to have very good fuel economy. AHHH yes, a 350 LXR (elixir) sounds good to me!!! this engine should feature direct port injection and because the limit for small motorcycle licencing is 250cc here and in other parts of Asia also it's a sensible idea to make it 249cc. but then aftermarket parts could include BBK's because i'm looking at this engine case and i see a lot of room for safe expansion. i wouldn't want to build something that was difficult for others to mod because that would take the fun out of it and i would loose sales. what's the first thing you do when you think about buying an engine? for me it's to look for if there are any BBK's available and any other aftermarket parts. |
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 21:25:29 GMT -5
well, let me take this as an opportunity to get a little feedback on some of my work. it's my dream to build the scooters of tomorrow.I have been working hard to create something revolutionary, something high performance and high quality. i call it the L250R.  its a  degree L twin 249cc liquid cooled high rpm scooter/motorcycle hybrid imagine a ducati engine with a scooter CVT. a quick look at the specs, Engine is 48mm stroke X 57.5mm bore,  valve angle is 13 degrees with DOHC.  the rear gearbox will be planetary drive,  and i want to acheive a max hp of about 30-35 on a bike with a wet weight of just 150kg thanks to its carbon fiber construction. so how many people here would buy one of these? |
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 20:13:30 GMT -5
I need to figure out some math. I know even a mm on the variator can seriously affect acceleration and top end, and the clutch turns about 8.75 turns for every turn of the wheel.  I am just not sure yet what that means. I will edit this when I figure it out but you guys feel free to interpret it for me if you can. one thing about CVT transmissions is that they don't take number A and convert it into number B they rely on torque (A)and rpm (B) input multiplied and converted into gearbox rpm(C) divided by the mass and resistance of the rear wheel(D) it's not a simple equation and the only way to do a scientific test is to test both tires at a certain rpm with the exact same road conditions and the exact same temperatures and see which one is faster, and then change the variator weight and clutch spring and final drive gears until you find the best performance. if i were you, i would just slap it on and see what top speed you get from it and compare with the original also the time it takes to get to that top speed. to be honest, i'm only 24 years old and i'm a bit of a psycho when it comes to speed. anything that i can possibly do to increase the top speed and the time it takes to get to it i had already done to my previous scooter. i would say if your more inclined to do long straight rides or you don't mind hanging off the side of the scooter a little bit more on corners you should get the taller tires. whereas if you are doing more busy city snaking through traffic riding then the wider tires will offer you more stability when turning i used maxis race tires 100/100-10 on the rear wheel with 100/ -10 on the front. top speed 130km/h and could weave through any traffic jam. i had a stock gear setup on mine though and a really high rpm 2V engine. it would always overheat and needed a tonne of rpms to get moving. this time i want to go for a well ported high compression 4 valve with less rpm's (i'm really worried about valve float and valve bounce because i always drove WOT and could sometimes hear the valve bouncing when pushing it hard) so i will be gearing the final drive up to reduce the required rpms to reach the same speed but keep the rpm lower. |
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 19:44:16 GMT -5
Thank you. Does increasing the height of the sidewall have any ill effects on tire performance or stability? Will a taller tire be more likely to wrinkle or fold or do any other weird stuff while I'm driving on it? a wider tire gives more stability and grip when cornering, that's why racing bikes have fatter rear tires. but with it being wider, 2 things occur. 1- more rotating mass, meaning the wheel needs more turning power to go and more stopping power to stop. 2- bigger tire profile, increases drag when the wind hit's it. taller tires can also have more rotating mass and the benefit of them comes from more distance traveled to wheel rpm. they also make the ride height slightly higher. and they create a stronger gyro effect making bumps less of an issue another thing i forgot to mention was that you need to check the suspension clearance if you install a bigger tire. the last thing you wand is for your wheel to scrape the bottom of your seat whenever you go over a bump |
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 13:36:05 GMT -5
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 13:24:28 GMT -5
I am not sure but it looks like I need a new rear tire. It's not like a car tire. It's some fancy thing with strange nubbles on it. Is that word? If not, I call it! It loks kind of bald but it also looked that way when I got it. It stops the bike really well, even in rain and seems to work fine but it looks like maybe it's time to replace it. I don't know. I will post a picture of the tire here in a bit. The bike plate says I need a 4.00-12 MT2.75*J12 rear tire and I have a 120/70-12 tire now. Is that the right tire? Also, can I use a taller tire for higher gearing? If so, what sort of options do I have? My rim says it is tubeless, and I assume the tire is tubeless. Also, what about mounting? Can any old tire dealer mount a scooter tire? Is it something I can do myself? Those aluminum rims look easy to damage. ok here you go, |
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 12:40:31 GMT -5
My cvt drive gets really warm. I can't even touch the clutch or variator after a short drive. If I didn't drive in the rain, I'd chop holes and vents in my cover. i also have this problem too. i think the best way to deal with it is to use a ram air intake of some kind into the transmission case. or you could change the final drive gearbox ratio to lower the transmission rpm. and get an oil cooler too. its harder to make a hot engine run colder than it is to make a cold engine run hotter, unless you live at the north pole, there is always a benefit from adding an oil cooler. |
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 11:42:38 GMT -5
No car has been manufactured in over 20 years with anything OTHER than an electric pump (same with motorcycles). As I see it - modernizing your scooter should significantly IMPROVE reliability, not degrade it. buy a motorcycle or car fuel pump then and mod it in |
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 3:09:26 GMT -5
small carbs give quick throttle response.
bigger carbs give better mid range and top end power.
a cvk 28 will give good enough top end for up to about 180cc.
chances are that your carb is a cvk28 if it's 150cc stock.
just re jet if that's the case.
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Post by ccr on Nov 2, 2014 2:22:50 GMT -5
EFI models come with electric fuel pump and no kick start.
if you have battery problems the only way to start it would be to use a long socket through the fan cover and low speed drill.not an impact wrench, because that would just remove the magneto nut.
if you really want to start a scooter business over there you should only deal with Yamaha's Honda's and Vespa's. the rest will probably fail on you soon after you sell them and make you look bad. if you really want to sell Chinese scooters, get some American made parts in them before you send them out.
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Post by ccr on Nov 1, 2014 22:49:39 GMT -5
in my opinion, anything electronic on a scooter will fail.
scooters are designed to fail, planned obsolescence at it's finest.
is there anyone on this forum that's had no problems with their Chinese scooter at all for 10 years?
i don't think so. I've seen the way they are manufactured, I've thought to myself, this could be made a lot better with this a bit thicker, or this with a metal support through there.
the truth is, it's a scooter at the end of the day. it's not a motorcycle or a car. its service life is only about 5 years and that's why it's so cheap. with the exception of these big maxi scooters like the T max and the Burgman
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degree L twin 249cc liquid cooled high rpm scooter/motorcycle hybrid
