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Break in
by: rcq92130 - Sept 16, 2014 20:09:45 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Sept 16, 2014 20:09:45 GMT -5
AlleyOop ---
I need to go thru a break-in again since there are new piston rings.
The first procedure was pretty painful, but I followed it to a "t". First 300 miles not more than 35 MPH, which meant riding in the bicycle lane (with my friend on his full dresser Harley, hazard lights blinking, following so I didn't get run over!).
Now I'm reading people say you should just "go for it" under a theory the rings expand against the cylinder wall because of compression pressure, so babying the engine actually hurts. I would LOVE that to be true ... but am afraid it's nonsense.
Just passed 50 miles with the BBK installed (almost all hills), changed the oil ....
But I would love to hear your recommendation for breaking in a GY6.
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Break in
by: rockynv - Sept 17, 2014 3:10:02 GMT -5
Post by rockynv on Sept 17, 2014 3:10:02 GMT -5
While you might get away with it the chance is that you can have a soft seize and crack the oil rings, score the cylinder or deform the ring grooves in the piston. Vary the throttle to eliminate the chance of settling in at a harmonic that could cause piston chatter and occasionally give it a brief 2/3 or 3/4 moment of throttle to expand the rings. I have seen too many do the hard break-in and end up with enough metal wool in their oil screen to account for better than half the useful engine life getting scraped away from it and lost in the trash.
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Break in
by: captaincrunnk - Sept 17, 2014 7:55:17 GMT -5
Post by captaincrunnk on Sept 17, 2014 7:55:17 GMT -5
I couldn't take sorting through the hundreds of theories regarding proper engine break in so I simply followed the rule of not staying at the same RPM for a lengthy period of time, made sure I worked my engine through all RPM ranges thoroughly at different speeds up to 45-50 mph, and ran it both hard and soft for the first 300-500 miles. It's running smooth as ice still, and I'm not leaking oil or hearing any crazy out-of-place noises. Oil changes (two during this period) were a little dirty but nothing astounding.
I think as long as you take it carefully and follow the basics of break in you'll be fine.
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Break in
by: rockynv - Sept 17, 2014 12:09:27 GMT -5
Post by rockynv on Sept 17, 2014 12:09:27 GMT -5
I couldn't take sorting through the hundreds of theories regarding proper engine break in so I simply followed the rule of not staying at the same RPM for a lengthy period of time, made sure I worked my engine through all RPM ranges thoroughly at different speeds up to 45-50 mph, and ran it both hard and soft for the first 300-500 miles. It's running smooth as ice still, and I'm not leaking oil or hearing any crazy out-of-place noises. Oil changes (two during this period) were a little dirty but nothing astounding. I think as long as you take it carefully and follow the basics of break in you'll be fine. No need for a hundred theories as the only one that matters is what's printed in the owners manual. What was printed in the owners manual for my Lance and the Aprilia I now have are pretty close to the same which is no WOT off the line with only occasional bursts of WOT while already moving, vary the speed and keep the speed below 80% of max. |
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Break in
by: ghcoe - Sept 17, 2014 18:35:50 GMT -5
Post by ghcoe on Sept 17, 2014 18:35:50 GMT -5
Whoops!
Naa....just kidding. Breaking in mine hard. Changed oil when I got it and there was quite a bit of dust in the oil. Changed it at 50 miles and looked much better. I think the new oil just flushed the case. Changed oil at 100 miles and had to really look to find anything. No "wool" or anything big. Running her hard from the get go. Running smooth and very peppy from start and has great throttle response even I the higher rpms. Pretty happy with my results so far.
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Break in
by: rockynv - Sept 19, 2014 12:10:00 GMT -5
Post by rockynv on Sept 19, 2014 12:10:00 GMT -5
We will see at 20,000 to 30,000 miles how that works out however many times by the time the troubles start from the hard break-in it will be the third or forth owner that will be stuck with them. For the long haul your best off going by the book as written by the manufacturer.
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Break in
by: ghcoe - Sept 20, 2014 11:35:39 GMT -5
Post by ghcoe on Sept 20, 2014 11:35:39 GMT -5
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Freshman Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 61 
Likes: 3
Joined: Jul 9, 2014 11:56:23 GMT -5
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Post by hunter on Sept 20, 2014 13:35:01 GMT -5
I've had good luck with the above article on both my scoots.
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Break in
by: SylvreKat - Sept 21, 2014 12:14:27 GMT -5
Post by SylvreKat on Sept 21, 2014 12:14:27 GMT -5
Remember that I'm nowhere in the mechanics' book here. But I do read a lot on the forum.
From "break in secrets"--
The biggest factor is that engine manufacturers now use a much finer honing pattern in the cylinders than they once did. This in turn changes the break-in requirements, because as you're about to learn, the window of opportunity for achieving an exceptional ring seal is much smaller with
newer engines than it was with the older "rough honed" engines.
In addition, there is a lot less heat build up in the cylinders from ring friction
due to the finer honing pattern used in modern engines.
The other factors that have changed are the vastly improved metal casting and machining
technologies which are now used. This means that the "wearing in" of the new parts
involves significantly less friction and actual wear than it did in the distant past.
--It's words like "finer honing" and "vastly improved" that make me wonder how applicable this technique is for the Chinese scooters most folks here drive. I know that many are indeed "vastly improved" from what was being shlucked onto folks years ago. But are the improved enough for a hard break-in?
>'Kat
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Break in
by: ghcoe - Sept 21, 2014 22:16:14 GMT -5
Post by ghcoe on Sept 21, 2014 22:16:14 GMT -5
The big 3 have most their parts made in China. China is trying to break into a market dominated by the big 3. Don't think of them as a 3rd world country anymore. Most of there factories have brand new machines installed.
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Break in
by: rcq92130 - Sept 22, 2014 0:02:30 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Sept 22, 2014 0:02:30 GMT -5
Yes, but we do not get our scooters / engines from "China" but from specific factories. Some have perhaps installed advanced machining capabilities. Others have not.
For example - the Koreans now have perhaps the most modern factories, simply because they are the newest. Their capabilities are, generally, better than those of any U.S. based factory. This is why Kia Hyundai and others are quite possibly the best manufactured cars on the planet (not the most luxurious - just the best produced). but there are, no doubt, other gasoline engine plants in Korea that do NOT have modern equipment and are NOT making top notch product.
I'm not sure how to tell what the different GY6 factories are like and what level of machinery they are using. Your engine number I guess tells which factory made the engine. but how to you know if that particular engine was made with advanced equipment or antiquated equipment? I don't know how to tell this.
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Break in
by: rockynv - Sept 22, 2014 3:44:45 GMT -5
Post by rockynv on Sept 22, 2014 3:44:45 GMT -5
Add to that the variability in ring, piston and cylinder replacement sets people purchase from Ebay so that then even if you are renewing the cylinder on a Vespa with 80,000 miles on it if you are not using factory parts you will most likely not be getting micro-fine machining. However to be noted is that even Piaggio who does micro-fine machine their engines does not recommend a hard run-in.
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