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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 9, 2014 1:27:47 GMT -5
JR, alleyoop, Doug, JerryScript, skuttadawg, friend gave me a scooter, but the only problem he had with it was that he couldn't get the oil drain plug off. so he drilled a big whole right in the middle of it to drain the oil. now i cant find how to get the plug off to put a new one on and a oil filter. i think i need to get a new crankcase. my brother said i would need some type of special tool to take out the round thing if i decide to replace the crank cover, is that true? it's a 150cc 2011 ToaToa scooter with regular gy6 engine ![]()  
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 9, 2014 1:30:12 GMT -5
Get big pliers that opens up wide and grab it from around and unscrew it out. Remember turn it to your left to unscrew it.
Alleyoop
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 9, 2014 1:34:03 GMT -5
i tried that, it is extremely tight and very hard to get off. I tried a lot of different types of pliers to get it off, nothing. started using a ratchet
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 9, 2014 1:36:11 GMT -5
put a little heat around the case there to expand it and then try it with the pliers.
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 9, 2014 1:38:07 GMT -5
o ok i ever thought of that. i will give it a try first thing in the morning.
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Post by scotttx on Aug 9, 2014 1:41:36 GMT -5
maybe weld something onto it you can get ahold of with vice grips of that doesnt work.
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 9, 2014 1:42:07 GMT -5
Good luck, if still not, get a screw driver and at an angle GOING LEFT to unscrew see if you can loosen it giving the screw driver head some whacks.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 9, 2014 4:49:56 GMT -5
You can also slot it to fit a large square shaft screw driver with a Dremel type tool and then use a wrench on the square shaft for leverage to get it off or use a big easy out in the hole. There are a lot of options.
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 9, 2014 6:05:06 GMT -5
The drain plug is relatively soft metal. A screwdriver (or more properly a cold chisel) and a judiciously applied hammer are likely the way to go, Work your way around the face of the plug, whacking it in the unscrew direction. Just don't go crazy with the hammer. You don't want to damage the engine case. Eventually it will come loose or you'll break off a chunk of the plug to where you can get more leverage on it.
Then buy yourself a new plug and keep your friend away from the garage.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 9, 2014 10:38:16 GMT -5
You can borrow an extractor set from places like Auto-Zone or Pep Boys for a deposit. However, the only reasons for it to have been stuck in the first place are cross-threading or heat. If it was cross-threaded, you'll need to use a helicoil or tap it out to a larger size. If it was heat damaged, I would be concerned with other components possibly being heat damaged. Inspect every part of your engine thoroughly!
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Post by oldchopperguy on Aug 9, 2014 10:49:50 GMT -5
From past experience, I agree with the posts about using a tool in a groove cut, and hitting it counterclockwise... or huge pliers (a pipe-wrench is good too, since they tighten as force is applied). In addition, if you can find a can of "Liquid Wrench" it might do wonders. I was able to remove a broken-off head-bolt from an old Buick with that stuff... You saturate the bolt (or drain-plug) all round the edges, then "tap" it with a hammer to set up a vibration. Let it sit overnight, and it may come out with just normal "twisting" force.
With a hole already drilled in the plug, you may be able to get some Liquid Wrench on the inside edges through the hole. That stuff has almost always worked for me... ALMOST... not always... LOL! But REALLY worth a try!
Hope this helps,
Leo in Texas
PS: If it absolutely will not come out without breaking the crankcase, you might consider cleanly drilling out that "hole" and tapping it. Then, insert a suitable "bolt" for a new drain-plug. I think if you change oil regularly, you could live without the little screen "filter" but you probably could even make one from fine screen, and solder it to the new plug if it's a brass or steel one. Just make sure it's SOLID so it doesn't come off inside the engine...
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Post by sunsport on Aug 9, 2014 12:19:18 GMT -5
Wow, some of these suggestions are deadly... DO NOT heat the case. The only application that will get the case hot enough to expand around the defective plug, enough to loosen it, would be a propane, or hobby torch. This will heat the oil beyond the flash point and you will become a casualty. Here is the easy option: Drill a small hole 3/16" to 1/4" in the center of the stuck plug. Use an easy out to back it out. You can get an easy out at any auto parts store, rental store, or Harbor Freight.
Good luck and always be careful when taking advice.
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 9, 2014 13:41:31 GMT -5
i got it off, with a hammer and chisel then i put everything back on. i installed a new drain bolt, put 15w 40 oil in it, and put on a new oil line. then i put the battery back in to start it and it didn't start. when i hit the start switch, all i heard was a tick sound (every time i hit the start button) coming from the ignition relay/Solenoid. i have no idea what it could be. alleyoop, scotttx, rockynv, pmatulew, JerryScript, oldchopperguy, sunsport |
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 9, 2014 21:08:51 GMT -5
Have you had the battery tested (many auto parts stores do it free)? Even though a battery shows over 12V on a multimeter, it still can be bad.
Have you tried kickstarting it?
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 9, 2014 22:06:49 GMT -5
JerryScript I've tried the battery from my dirt bike and the one that came with the scooter. my brother said he is going to give me his kick-starter from his 50cc. i just ordered a starter relay and a solenoid (for my lights) and an air aftermarket air filter. ordered the solenoid because i held the crank button and it stopped ticking loud so my fly wheel stopped moving. i looked it up and a guy from YouTube had the same problem so he did a valve check and it started right up. also i see 2 large tubes that are connected to nothing, is that normal? i have pics upon request
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
