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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 10, 2014 18:48:52 GMT -5
pmatulew i didn't have the right tool to set the valve, so i used a wrench and pliers. (saw youtube video) its not damaged cause i did a compression test i checked the spark plug, it was firing fine and checks out on my multi-meter. the gas is fresh,, i didn't check the carb jets. I'm going to have to look it up. i been trying to crank it from the damaged solenoid should i stop doing that or its fine? it act like it wants to turn on. i almost had it with my carb spray, but i ran out. (old can wasn't much in there at all when i started) I'm about to upgrade the power and ground wires, hopefully it will make a difference. alleyoop, ksaun123, rockynv, pmatulew, scotttx
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 10, 2014 19:00:48 GMT -5
Well I question how you adjusted the valves to set them correctly, If they are to loose it will be hard to start same as if to tight.
If you do not have feeler gauges get a can of beer or soda and cut a strip off the can that is about .003-.004 in thickness you can use that at least to get it pretty close.
Also turn the fuel ratio mixture screw on the carb CLOCKWISE until it stops and then turn it COUNTER CLOCKWISE 2 1/2 turns see if that helps.
Alleyoop
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Post by pmatulew on Aug 10, 2014 20:02:29 GMT -5
A thousandth of a inch difference is a lot to a small motor. You can pick up a set of feeler gauges for less than $20 and do it right.
The solenoid is already a goner. Can't kill it if it's already dead.
If the spark plug is sparking then you've already got power. Don't spend your time in things that aren't broke. If it's trying to start on the ether then you're close. (Don't use too much. It strips the oil off the cylinder walls and can cause problems with the rings.)
Time to give the carb a good going over.
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Post by JerryScript on Aug 10, 2014 20:08:30 GMT -5
Definitely post the pics, they are always helpful. It is common with used scooters to find the emissions systems removed, often leaving behind a couple of tubes, pics will help us determine if they are necessary.
A mathematical trick to setting valves without a feeler gauge is to tighten just till it touches, then back off 1/8 of a turn (this applies to .004).
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Freshman Rider
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Posts: 59 
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Post by scotttx on Aug 10, 2014 20:14:34 GMT -5
look for vacuum leaks, always the hidden killer.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 10, 2014 22:13:34 GMT -5
A strip of 20 lb printer paper or a strip cut from a soda can are workable substitutes for the feeler gauges to adjust the GY6 valves. Small metric wrenches for setting the valves are relatively cheap and your going to need them regularly if you put any mileage on the bike so you may as well get some small metric wrenches if you don't already have them. Here is a good starter set with a Lifetime Warranty for the lock nut and other uses: www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-raised-panel-combination-wrench-set-22-pc-68729.htmlInstead of pliers for the flats on the stem (Lifetime Warranty): www.harborfreight.com/6-inch-steel-adjustable-wrench-67149.htmlDouble check that the kill switch did not accidentally get engaged and that the key is in the run position when you jump the relay to attempt to start it. The kill switch gets many people since they don't regularly use it so when its engaged it is done so unintentionally. |
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 10, 2014 23:39:09 GMT -5
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 11, 2014 0:08:09 GMT -5
WOW!! So the header broke off the flange and the flange is still on the motor. If you have the rest of the header and muffler you can weld the flange back onto the header. Without a muffler and header it will not be easy to start the motor and not good to do so without one. It will burn the exhaust valve in no time. That canister looks like it is from a PAIR system, You can take that canister out and plug up the vacuum line going to it. Take the chrome pipe on the valve cover off and plug up where it connects to the head. You can make your own plate to block the hole on the head or you can actually buy the plate to block it. Alleyoop Here you can see the PAIR system here: itistheride.boards.net/thread/4902/emissions-scoot |
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 11, 2014 0:31:42 GMT -5
alleyoop yeah i thinking the muffler broke off. sadly everything you see in the pics, came as is. except i took off all plastic parts. i had no idea it could burn the exhaust valve... the previous owner had it running without it, driving it to work. (loud!) what if the valve is burnt? how can i check and what to do if it is and will it effect the scooter turning on? i saw where the exhaust valve is, i couldn't really tell if it was burnt or not. i just put my finger on it and a tiny bit of oil got on my finger. i plan on getting a performance muffler from amazon www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLV1D8G/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3M9NXSSW7AH0Ewould it be better to order it and install it first then crank it so it wouldn't burn the valve? header pipe? your talking about the pipe that's between the carb and the engine? if you are then it makes much more sense. what about the drain hose coming from the canister? don't worry about it right?
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Post by rockynv on Aug 11, 2014 4:14:15 GMT -5
Header pipe is listed with the muffler you are looking at.
Seams like the previous owner had minor problems that he just let escalate and then proceeded to beat the snot out of it.
Do what you can to get it running however you may want to get a compression tester and see what shape the cylinder and valves are in before you spend too much on it. Also how much clanking does it make when you turn the flywheel? If much at all then you may need a new crankshaft and connecting rod. If compression comes back low and crank is noisy you may be better off ordering a new engine.
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 11, 2014 4:46:01 GMT -5
Yeah i agree with you on that. people just need to take care of their stuff
I checked the compression by taking the spark plug out and putting my finger in the plug hole and tried to start it and my finger got sucked in. So compression is not the issue.
There is no clanking, knocking, ticking, or anything when i try to start it.
If it comes down to it i would get a new engine if it comes to that point.
The previous owner was running it with not even a cup of oil so i really hope the engine is not locked
I also notice that no gas is coming from the tank through the line (its clear) so i think the problem includes that. The gas moves a little when i try to crank it though.
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 11, 2014 16:41:48 GMT -5
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 11, 2014 17:08:19 GMT -5
1. Now the PUMP SHOULD have a VACUUM HOSE going to it IF NOT that is why it is not pumping gas to the carb.
2. Now the RED wire from the SOLENOID going to the CDI!! Did you put that on? ONLY if that SCOOT works off a DC CDI would it need 12Volts and that would come from the IGNITION SWITCH, not a constant 12volts from the battery, Because if it does start you will not be able to kill the motor, you will have to unhook the battery or pull the BOOT CAP OFF THE PLUG.
BUT here is the THING is that scooter supposed to have a DC CDI is the question. If it's not a DC setup the CDI has been FRIED ALREADY.
First thing to check is if the PLUG is firing. Take the plug out or a spare and take the BOOT CAP off the plug on the motor and put it in the BOOT CAP and hold the SPARK PLUG ON THE VALVE cover and crank it. See if the PLUG IS FIRING OR NOT.
The Vacuum hoses are a mess to say the least. But we can get to that after you check for spark.
The emissions can be taken off not a problem(the two canisters).
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Post by ksaun123 on Aug 11, 2014 17:39:31 GMT -5
alleyoop i didn't put the wire on the cdi, but i traced it and it goes into the cdi so i know its not just squeezed in the terminals. i don't really know if its a dc scooter or a ac. how would i know/check? im going to order a new performance ac cdi just to see if it was fried and if its really ac i already checked the spark plug and its firing fine. just got a new one (not installed) the gas pump does have a vacuum hose going to it from the intake manifold. is it supposed to go there? do you happen to have a spare muffler? i want to just order new wiring if i cant get it started, but im waiting on the kick start from my bro. if all else fails then im going to get a new carb and manifold with 2 vacuum holes on it.
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Post by alleyoop on Aug 11, 2014 18:53:26 GMT -5
Lets check if your fuel pump is hooked up right, it may be hooked up wrong and is pumping toward the tank and not the carb. Look on the top of it and see if you can see some arrows on it. The arrows is the direction of the fuel flow IN AND OUT. Like this:  |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
